Tommy Caldwell

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This article is about the rock climber. For the musician who was a member of The Marshall Tucker Band, see Tommy Caldwell (musician).

Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978 in Estes Park, Colorado) is an American rock climber. He is married to prominent American rock climber Beth Rodden.

Caldwell is prolific in many types of climbing. He made the first ascents (FA) of some of the United States' hardest sport routes including Kryptonite (5.14c/d) and Flex Luthor (a possible 5.15a, see Realization) at the Fortress of Solitude, Colorado.

Caldwell is a big wall climber, with the first free and free ascent of a handful of El Capitan routes to his credit. In May, 2004 he completed the first free ascent of Dihedral Wall. In 2005, he and wife Beth Rodden (swapping leads) made the third and fourth free ascents of the Nose. Two days later, on October 16, Caldwell free climbed the Nose in less than 12 hours. A few days later, Caldwell climbed the Nose in 11 hours, descended the East Ledges, and then climbed Freerider, topping out 12 hours later - the first ascent of two El Cap free climbs in 24 hours.

On El Capitan, Caldwell has also free climbed:

Lurking Fear
the Muir Wall
the West Buttress
the Salathé
and Zodiac.

Caldwell, Beth Rodden, and fellow climbers John Dickey and Jason Smith were held hostage by rebels in Kyrgyzstan in 2000.^[1] Caldwell accidentally sawed off much of his left index finger with a table saw in 2001. Doctors were able to reattach the severed portion, however Caldwell subsequently had it removed so as not to hinder his climbing career.^{[citation needed]}

[edit] Notable ascents

2003: Flex Luthor (5.14d/15a?), Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, USA^[2]
2003: West Buttress (FFA) VI 5.13c, El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA^[3]
2004: Dihedral Wall (FFA) VI 5.14a, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California, USA^[4]
2005: The Nose VI 5.13, 3rd/4th Free Ascent (with Beth Rodden), El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California, USA^[5]
2006: Linea di Eleganza VI 5.11b A3 90 degrees M7 Fitz Roy, Argentine Patagonia. FFA with Topher Donahue and Erik Roed.^[6]

[edit] References

^ Climbers Recount Kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan
^ 2003 Golden Piton Awards - Sport Climbing. Climbing Magazine. Action Sports Group. Retrieved on 2007-03-02.
^ Wright, Cedar (2004). YOSEMITE VALLEY - Various Activity. Alpinist Magazine. Marc Ewing. Retrieved on 2007-03-02.
^ MacDonald, Dougald. Caldwell Frees Dihedral Wall. Climbing Magazine. Action Sports Group. Retrieved on 2007-03-02.
^ MacDonald, Dougald. Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose. Climbing Magazine. Action Sports Group. Retrieved on 2007-03-02.
^ Caldwell, Tommy; Topher Donahue (September 2006). "Scattered Ashes". Alpinist 17 (Autumn 2006): 50-57. Jackson, WY, USA: Alpinist Magazine. ISSN 744705745080.