Tobermore

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Tobermore
Irish: An Tóbar Mór
The village centre
Tobermore shown within Northern Ireland
Population	578 (2001 Census)
Irish grid reference	H8396
District	Magherafelt
County	County Londonderry
Constituent country	Northern Ireland
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	MAGHERAFELT
Postcode district	BT45
Dialling code	028
Police	Northern Ireland
Fire	Northern Ireland
Ambulance	Northern Ireland
European Parliament	Northern Ireland
UK Parliament	Mid Ulster
NI Assembly	Mid Ulster
List of places: UK • Northern Ireland • County Londonderry

Coordinates: 54°48′N 6°42′W / 54.8, -6.7

Tobermore (Irish An Tóbar Mór; meaning The Great Well) is a small village in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland It is located two and a half miles south of Maghera and five miles west of Magherafelt. Tobermore lies within the parish of Kilcronaghan, the barony of Loughinsholin and Magherafelt District Council.

Tobermore has won the ’Best Kept Small Village’ award four times and most recently the 'Best Kept Large Village award in 1986. ^[1]

Contents 1 Name 2 Topography 2.1 Townlands 2.2 Hills 2.3 Bogs 2.4 Ballynahone Bog [5] 2.5 Woods 3 History 3.1 Calmore Castle 3.2 Kilcronaghan 3.3 Fortifications 3.4 Non Payment of Rents 3.5 Local Superstitions 4 Notable People 5 Tobermore and the Troubles 5.1 Vanguard rally 6 Tobermore Loyalism 6.1 Orange Order 6.2 The 11th Night 6.3 Millrow F.B. 6.4 Tobermore in folk songs 7 Tobermore and the Masonic Order 7.1 Lodge 169 8 Demography 8.1 Tobermore village 8.2 Tobermore Ward 9 Education 10 Sport 10.1 Soccer 10.2 Tobermore No.11 Northern Ireland Supporters Club 10.3 Darts 10.4 Golf 10.5 Fishing 11 References 12 See also

[edit] Name

The village of Tobermore is named after the townland where it was founded before it expanded into the neighbouring townland of Calmore (Irish an Coll Mór; meaning The Great Hazel). The name Tobermore itself is derived from the Anglicisation of the Irish An Tóbar Mór; meaning The Great Well. During the 17th century, Tobermore was also known as Tobarmore and Tubbermore, ^[2] with Tubbermore being the preferred usage by the Masonic Order. ^[3]

[edit] Topography

Tobermore's topography is best detailed in the description of the Kilcronaghan Parish, whose borders are the same as that of Tobermore electoral ward. These borders take it up to the proximity of the nearby settlements of Draperstown, Desertmartin and Maghera.

[edit] Townlands

Kilcronaghan Parish contains 24 townlands; Ballinderry*, Brackaghlislea, Calmore*, Clooney*, Cloughfin*, Coolsaragh, Drumballyhagan, Drumballyhagan*, Drumcrow, Drumsamney*, Duntibryan*, Gortahurk, Gortamney*, Granny, Keenaght, Killynumber*, Killytoney*, Moneyshanere*, Mormeal, Moybeg Kirley, Moyesset*, Tamnyaskey*, Tobermore* and Tullyroan*. ^[4] (* Are within close proximity of Tobermore) Many of these townlands are closer to other settlements such as Draperstown, Desertmartin and Maghera than to Tobermore, however for election quota's they are considered part of the Tobermore ward. Some of the townlands that are mentioned are up to 4 miles away from Tobermore village such as Brackaghlislea, Coolsarragh and Gortahurk. The hamlet of Kilross and Blackhill (in the townlands of Duntribryan and Tamnyaskey) and the hamlet of Ballynahone (in the townlands of Clooney and Ballynahone More) are part of the greater Tobermore village area.

[edit] Hills

Kilcronaghan Parish lies on the descending slope of Slieve Gallion (Irish: Sliabhgallion). Its highest point is situated on the western side of the summit of Slieve Gallion and from it, the ground falls in a series of hills lying south and north. These become more and more broken and irregular as they approach the River Moyola. The highest point is at the altitude of 1091 feet above sea level. The lowest western extremity of the townland of Tobermore is 130 feet in altitude. ^[4]

[edit] Bogs

Nothing but oak is found in the small bog of Coolsarragh. The flow bog of Tullyroan and Gortahurk has all been cut. ^[4] Ballynahone Bog is the second largest lowland raised bog in Northern Ireland and has been declared a Special Area of Conservation. ^[5]

[edit] Ballynahone Bog ^[5]

In 1979 a producer of peat for horticulture opened a factory (with government aid) and leased two bogs in the townland of Ballynahone More. In 1987 there was an application for planning permission to extract peat by milling from Ballynahone, Mullagh and Knocnakielt. In 1988, despite objections raised against the scheme, the Department of the Environment in Northern Ireland granted Planning Permission to the company. In 1990 the Ulster Wildlife Trust sent out a Press release inviting members to "... take their last walk on an Ulster Bog - now that the fight to retain its ancient flora and fauna has been lost". This walk drew in people from the surrounding area, a public meeting was held and the Friends of the Ballynahone Bog (FBB) were launched. In 1991 the peat development company dug 13 miles of drains on the southern half of Ballynahone Bog threatening the plants of the raised bog. In 1993 FBB started the process of declaring Ballynahone Bog a National Nature Reserve. After pressure from Professor David Bellamy and Friends of the Earth, planning permission was revoked and the government announced their intention of declaring the bog an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI). In December 1993, the peat company dammed the drains it had cut in the bog with about 1700 dams helping to maintain the height of the water table. In January 1995 Ballynahone Bog was declared an ASSI by the Environment and Heritage Service. FBB are now in partnership with the Ulster Wildlife Trust to try to reverse the damage done to the bog in order to encourage the revival of the specialized bog plants, such as the sundew, and the wildlife such as insects and birds which depend upon them.

[edit] Woods

The natural wood of the parish of Kilcronaghan consists of oak, ash, birch, alder, hazel and holly with thorns. A large oak called the Royal Oak grew near Calmore Castle in Tobermore. It is said to have being so large that horsemen on horseback could not touch one another with their whips across it, even after it had been cut down. ^[4] From this vague description, it is conjectured that the Royal Oak was about 10 feet in diameter or 30 feet in circumference. ^[4] Another oak tree that once grew near Tobermore was so tall and straight that it was known as the "Fishing Rod". Tradition is that the whole of the townlands were once covered with magnificent oak trees. ^[4]

[edit] History

The present day village of Tobermore is built on top of an ancient settlement dating back to Druidic times. In the Irish Rebellion of 1641, Tobermore was razed to the ground by rebels. In 1651 at Drumbally Hill Fort (two miles south of Tobermore), Oliver Cromwell slaughtered 360 men. ^[6] To the east of Drumbally Hill there is a ridge, where ancient Pagan festivals were held. ^[6]

Fortwilliam House in Tobermore was built in 1795 by the Stevensons the Linen People, and takes its name from an ancient fort which stands to the rear of it. This ancient fort or Rath was named after King William III by Mr. Jackson the first proprietor of the area it lies on. ^[4]

[edit] Calmore Castle

There remains some vestiges of the ancient Calmore Castle, where tradition has it that it was built by Shane More O'Hagan, who was succeeded by his son William O'Hagan and then by Owen Roe O'Hagan. ^[7] Calmore Castle was "once a place of very considerable strength, which commanded the mountain passes, and the fords of the (River) Moyola" ^[7]. It was burned by the retreating army of James II of England after the Siege of Derry in 1689, and was afterwards not repaired ^[6].

Legends state that the O'Hagans who resided in the castle dropped all of their gold down the great well and filled it in so that King James II couldn't get hold of it. ^[6] A Plantation House was built in 1619 for William Rowley, and may have incorporated parts of Calmore Castle. William Rowley was the brother of John Rowley, former chief agent of the The Honourable The Irish Society, and later for the Drapers Company.

The last inhabitant was Henry Rowley in 1814. The Calmore Castle Plantation House no longer exists. Nothing remains of the castle other than part of the wall which is 3 feet thick and is now part of a garage. ^[7] Calmore Castle was accompanied by a Royal Oak tree, used by Druids in their ancient ceremonies. ^[7]

[edit] Kilcronaghan

Kilcronaghan (Irish Cill Cronaughan; meaning Church of Cronaugh). is the local parish of Tobermore. There once stood an ancient church which according to tradition was founded by Saint Cronaugh, a bishop and son of a king of Munster. It was then Anglicised to Kille Cronaughan and afterwards Kilcronoghan. It is likewise said that there had been a nunnery close to it. It was here that the famous Irish saint, Columba, got his earlier schooling under the skilful teaching of St Cronaugh. ^[4]

The newer parish church dated from 1816 and has a fine Norman niche dating from the earlier church. Other than the western gable and northern wall, nothing of the old church was incorporated into the new one. There was once a hanging stone at the church where all local villains met their demise, however it was built into the wall as it was seen as distasteful. Along with this was an underground tunnel leading from inside the church all the way over to the local Rectory, yet this tunnel has been filled in. There may be a crypt underneath the church. ^[4] However, this church was abandoned sometime near the end of the 19th century and has fallen into a sad state. Many of the gravestones lie slanted and are covered in moss. In the middle of the church lies a grave with a shattered headstone to who appears to have been maybe the last Rector of the church. The now ruined Kilcronaghan Church has been superseded by a bigger church at the top of Main Street, Tobermore.

[edit] Fortifications

Due to the amount of ancient fortifications in Tobermore (at least 20), it may have once enjoyed a sense of importance. What follows is a list of known fortifications in the townlands of the Tobermore ward ^[7] :

• Calmore Castle - in the townland of Calmore. "Once a place of very considerable strength, which commanded the mountain passes, and the fords of the (River) Moyola". Total dimensions of the castle when standing was 40/50 feet in the clear. ^[7].
• Earthen forts in the townlands of:

- Drumcrow, Tullyroan, Moyesset, Killytoney,

- Mormeal Hill (112 ft in diameter, 8 ft high),

- Two in Killynumber (one being 100 ft. in diameter),

- Coolsaragh (129 ft. in diameter, built upon a high hill),

- Two in Moneyshanere (first being 75 ft. in diameter, 15 ft. high with 2 trenches, the second 75 ft. in diameter and 10 ft. high),

- Two in Brackagh Rowley (one called the Black Fort, 100 ft. diameter and very high, the other being 65 ft. in diameter),

- Tamnyaskin (45 by 30 yards oval shaped), - Calmore (not to confused with Calmore Castle),

- Two in Clooney (one being 120 ft. in diameter),

- Two in Gortahurk (one being 45 ft. in diameter),

- Drumsamney (100 ft. in diameter),

- Gortamney (100 ft. in diameter)

[edit] Non Payment of Rents

During the early 1800's, the inhabitants of Tobermore "displayed a very unruly disposition with respect to the payment of their rents" towards their landlord Mr. Miller of Moneymore. It is stated that the inhabitants resisted the "pounding of their cattle, executed by him, with pitchforks and sundry other primitive implements of warfare". When they found that resistance was useless they employed Mr. Costello, one of the orators of the Corn Exchange to litigate their cause at the Magherafelt sessions, but here they were also unsuccessful. ^[7]

A chancery lawsuit going on between Ball and Co. of Dublin and Sir George Hill operated as an obstruction to the improvement of the village as it stood upon the estate disputed with non payment of rents. ^[7] The main reasons for the non payment was that "the tenants for a length of time refused to pay rent at all to any person, giving it as their reason that they had not sufficient security in their receipts, against a repetition of the demand for the same years rent". ^[7]

During the same period it is noted that there where no "illicit distillation" of alcohol and "no outrages for many years" in the village except for "a few assaults in the street of Tobermore on the persons of those who came to collect rent". ^[7] After the repayment of rents resumed it was remarked that "they were so long free of rent, none of them became in the end, the least degree richer", this may have been because as it was also remarked "their rent money which if saved every year would have secured some of them a comfortable competence found its way to the whiskey shops of the village and neighbourhood". ^[7]

[edit] Local Superstitions

In the Statistical Reports of Six Derry Parishes 1821, there are listed three superstitions that where held by people of the area: Firstly it is claimed that people in the Kilcronaghan and Ballinascreen parish areas once believed in the 'occult virtues' of the Ballinascreen Bell where those who swore upon it became cursed ^[7]. There are two recorded stories of people swearing on the bell and misfortune occurring to them afterwards:

• A Mr Higgins, from the townland of Gortahurk, was accused of stealing some articles from a neighbouring farmer. He procured the ancient bell, brought it to the scene of the accusation and swore an oath upon it. However instead he suffered immediate mental derangement, a condition he would have until his death. It also affected two of his offspring. ^[7]

• A woman who made a voluntary, but unlawful oath, on the Ballinascreen Bell, suffered from mental derangement for many years. ^[7]

The second superstition, which was suppossedly held by on the large by the Roman Catholics of the country, was that an oath taken on the Bible was not binding as if taken on their "own Manual or Prayer Book". ^[7]

The third superstition was the blinking of cows. This superstition held that you mustn't "mix milk of one quarter with that of another quarter, lest their cows should be blinked, as it is believed that mixing the milk is the reason of so many cows being blinked". Not even a single drop of the last quarter of milk would be mixed with that of another, in either sweet or butter milk. ^[7] What exactly the blinking of cows was is not detailed.

[edit] Notable People

Alexander Carson (1776-1844) - prominent Irish Baptist, pastor of Tobermore Baptist Church and author of the classic Baptism, Its Mode and Subjects . Though originally born in Annahone near Stewartstown, Co. Tyrone and educated in Glasgow ^[8], Alexander Carson was appointed in 1798 as Presbyterian minister for Tobermore. However he left the Presbyterians and published as justification of his action Reasons for Separating from the General Synod of Ulster (Edinburgh, 1804), where he states:

“	Shall I then submit to be cooped up in a corner and restrained by human fetters from lending a hand to rescue my brethren from the pit of destruction? [9]	”
—Alexander Carson

For ten years he preached in barns or the open air and a stone church was built for him in Tobermore in 1814. In the early part of his independent career, whilst studying the New Testament in order to confute the Baptists, he became one himself. His Baptism in Its Mode and Subjects Considered (Edinburgh, 1831; enlarged ed., 1844) is a Baptist classic. His other writings were numerous and treat topics of Bible interpretation, philosophy, doctrinal and practical theology, and the like. He was a bitter controversialist. His collected works were published in six volumes at Dublin, 1847-64. ^[8] Alexander Carson also received an honorary degree from two American universities ^[8]. Opposite the Tobermore Baptist Church is a small housing estate named Carson Court in dedication to him.

Harry Gregg, MBE (born October 25, 1932), former Manchester United and Northern Ireland goalkeeper. Harry Gregg was born in Tobermore though he would grow up in Coleraine. Harry Gregg is rated as one of the best goalkeepers Manchester United and Northern Ireland ever had, though he has no medals to justify the claim, mostly the result of injuries resulting in Harry not playing enough games to qualify for a medal. He received an MBE in 1995, and is sometimes known as 'The Hero of Munich' because he pulled some of his team mates from the burning plane during the Munich Air Disaster including Bobby Charlton, Jackie Blanchflower and Dennis Viollet. He also pulled out a woman and her baby as well as his manager Sir Matt Busby. ^[10] He was voted best goalkeeper of the 1958 World Cup tournament in 1958 according to the FIFA documentary "FIFA fever".

[edit] Tobermore and the Troubles

Being in southern County Londonderry, Tobermore came under an area known by some as the Murder triangle. All of the people killed in the Tobermore area were Protestant ^[11]:

• Samuel Porter (30), killed 22 November 1972 by the IRA - Samuel was a member of the Ulster Defence Regiment, and was shot dead outside his home in Ballynahone whilst off-duty.^[11]
• Noel Davis (22), killed 24 May 1975 by the INLA - Noel was a member of the Royal Ulster Constabulary. He was murdered by a booby trapped bomb in an abandoned car in Ballynahone, outside Tobermore.^[11]
• Alexander Watters (62), killed 16 March 1977 - A civilian, Alexander was shot dead whilst cycling along the road between Tobermore and Draperstown. It is not known who killed him.^[11]

[edit] Vanguard rally

Tobermore had also been used for the staging of an Ulster Vanguard rally, which was held in October 1972, where UUP deputy leader, John Taylor made a speech on the use of violence.

“	We should make it clear that force means death and fighting, and whoever gets in our way, whether republicans or those sent by the British government, there would be killings. [12]	”
—John Taylor

[edit] Tobermore Loyalism

[edit] Orange Order

Every 7 years the 12th of July Orange Order parade for the region is held in Tobermore, the most recent being 2005^[13]. The 12th July 2005 in Tobermore saw the participation of the Birmingham Sons of William LOL 1003 from Birmingham, Alabama^[13].

The Canadian Orange Order lodge Tobermore Crown and Bible Defenders LOL 2391, Toronto, is named after its Northern Irish counterpart, and has on the top of their standard a painting of the Tobermore Church of Ireland (located at the top of Main Street).

[edit] The 11th Night

As with many other settlements in Northern Ireland, Tobermore has what is known as the 11th Night, the night before the 12th of July Orange Order celebrations. The traditional activities of the 11th Night include the playing of Lambeg drums, the parading of the town by the local 'Blood and Thunder' band and the lighting of a bonfire.

[edit] Millrow F.B.

Millrow FB was a Blood and Thunder band, founded in the early 1970s. ^[14] It was at this time the Blood and Thunder style started to become popular with loyalist bands. Millrow FB soon became one of the biggest and most famous loyalist bands of the 70's and 80's. ^[14].

In 1973 they released an LP and are also featured on a CD titled "Ulster's greatest bands meet", featuring 3 other flute bands, where Millrow contributed more tunes to the CD than any of the other 3 bands did on their own. ^[15].

[edit] Tobermore in folk songs

Tobermore receives a mention in an old loyalist folk song titled The Union Cruiser ^[16]. The following is the verse containing Tobermore:

“

Magherafelt and Castledawson, Maghera and Tobermore Are as eager for the battle as they were in days of yore

”

[edit] Tobermore and the Masonic Order

Tobermore has its own Masonic Order lodge with the lodge name of Eureka and lodge number 309. At the time of its founding, Tobermore was commonly referred to as Tubbermore and lodge 309 is still referred to by the Masonic Order as being situated in Tubbermore. ^[17]

[edit] Lodge 169

In 1747, a warrant was issued for the creation of a Dublin Masonic Lodge, lodge number 169. On 5th September 1765, this warrant was cancelled, however by the 7th March 1811, the 169 lodge had resurfaced in Magherafelt. On 1st December 1825, the 169 lodge was removed from Magherafelt to Tobermore, where by 1838 it had moved onto Moneymore. The 169 lodge since 1895 has been situated in Belfast. ^[18]

[edit] Demography

[edit] Tobermore village

Tobermore is classified as a small village or hamlet. On Census day (29 April 2001) there were 578 people living in Tobermore. Of these:

• 19.9% were aged under 16 years and 20.6% were aged 60 and over
• 50.4% of the population were male and 49.7% were female
• 3.1% were from a Catholic background and 95.5% were from a Protestant background
• 3.0% of people aged 16-74 were unemployed, however
• 55.6% of residents have no qualifications and only 5.8% have a Degree level education or higher.
• 3.8% of residents where born outside of Northern Ireland
• 1.2% of residents are from an ethnic group other than white

References: ^{[19] [20]}

[edit] Tobermore Ward

The Tobermore electoral ward covers an area around the village of Tobermore, which includes the hamlets of Ballynahone and Kilross, both of which to their inhabitants are considered part of Tobermore.

The population of the Tobermore Ward has increased by 15% from the 1991 Census figure of 1,802 to the 2001 Census figure of 2,076. ^[21]

• 51.2% of the population are Male and 48.8% of the population are Female
• 40% of the population are 17 years old or younger and 18.5% of the population are 60 years old or older

[edit] Education

• Tobermore Primary School is a primary school within the North Eastern Education and Library Board area. ^[22]
• Kilross Primary School is a primary school within the North Eastern Education and Library Board area. ^[23]

[edit] Sport

[edit] Soccer

Tobermore United F.C. are the only representatives from Magherafelt District in the top two Irish League Divisions, participating in the Irish League First Division. Most recently they won the Irish Second Division title in the 2004/2005 season, the North-West Intermediate Cup in 2005 and the North-West Senior Cup 2006 ^[24]. Tobermore United are most famous for being the only club George Best played competitively for in his home country.

Desertmartin F.C., from the nearby village of Desertmartin, play their home matches on the council pitch in Mill Park, Tobermore.

Formerly there was another soccer team in Tobermore, Bridgend United, who also played their home matches at Mill Park council pitch.

[edit] Tobermore No.11 Northern Ireland Supporters Club

Tobermore since the latter half of 2005 has had its own Northern Ireland Supporters Club. Its membership was restricted initially to 40 members, however after its 2006 AGM this was expanded to 50. Its title contains No.11 as a dedication to George Best, for it is the number that he wore when he played his one-off match for Tobermore United.

[edit] Darts

Tobermore contains only one local dart team, the Diamond Bar Dart Team. In the 2004/2005 season they won the South Derry Darts 2nd Division League and South Derry 2nd Division League Cup. In the 2005/2006 season they finished third in the top league. ^[25]

[edit] Golf

Tobermore Golf Driving Range, was opened in 1995, and is a two tier structure containing 34 bays each containing a genuine astroturf mat with quality tees to suit. The 300 yard range is fully floodlit and is laid to simulate the characteristics of a course with realistic targets. Golf balls are available from an easy to use no-fuss dispenser. The range also has an excellent Putting Area to improve short game problems. It also offers PGA Professional tuition from Tony Mulholland and Eamon Logue. ^{[26] [27]}

[edit] Fishing

People who are interested in fishing go to the nearby River Moyola, whose stocks of salmon and trout have downsized during the last 20 years. However, this has not affected the enthusiasm of local game fishers.

[edit] References

[edit] See also

• List of villages in Northern Ireland
• List of towns in Northern Ireland