Talk:Tillandsia
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this looks like a copy-paste from something else ...-- Tarquin 23:15 Jan 19, 2003 (UTC)
I'm completely wrong. User:Arpingstone informs me this is his original work. apologies - t
The first sentence says the genus is found in deserts, and not until the second sentence do we find out that this is a genus of plants. Since Wikipedia is not just about plants, that is wrong. 131.183.73.23 22:11 Jan 23, 2003 (UTC)
Hi! I am the writer of this article. You are correct in what you say, I should have said plant genus in the first sentence. This has now been done. Thanks for noticing it.
Arpingstone 09:36 Jan 24, 2003 (UTC)
It's would be great to find a photo of what we call "Fille de l'air" in France that is a large Tillandsia growed into a ball-shape and simply hanged by a wire. This will illustrate they grow without soil. Ericd 21:36 Apr 12, 2003 (UTC)
[edit] Looks like a good start
I wish I had the time to flesh it all out, but I'm glad to see a pretty good description of a fascinating plant genus. My parents had specimens of about 20 Tillandsia species in their trees before they were nailed by hurricane Andrew. Many species are simply fascinating -- just outside my window is a large Tillandsia with a six-foot spike.
But it would be interesting if we could have an entry for ball moss (time limitations preclude me from doing so)...
It is exceptionally common in the southern US -- in southern Florida, it is virtually impossible to find a live oak without ball moss in it.
Ball moss is often found growing on electronic transmission wires in Florida(!), and it is one of the most vigorous of the Tillandsias. Sometimes its growth is so heavy that tree limbs break under its collective weight.
Also, ball moss has a capability that only a relative handful of plant species has: it fixes nitrogen from the air, like beans and alfalfa.
[edit] Oops
I just cut all the content of the page and then saved it... Sorry! I thought I was working on the page for Tillansia insignis that I just created about an hour ago, was going to make a redirect to Werauhia insignis, which is the new name for the species. I put the content back, hope it doesn't screw up the history too bad.
Codiferous 02:26, 14 March 2006 (UTC)
[edit] Wikipedia is not a how-to manual
The following information was cut from the article and should probably be transwikied to Wikibooks:
- ;Light
- Place in indirect or diffused sunlight in summer (full summer sun will damage the leaves) but direct sun is acceptable in winter. If indoors, Tillandsia must be placed near a bright window (avoid a north-facing view). They prefer to be outdoors in summer.
- Air
- Fresh, moving air is ideal.
- Watering
- For all watering, the first choice is rain water. If not available, use filtered tap water or tap water. The plants should be soaked thoroughly twice a week when not in flower; more often in a hot dry environment but do not keep the plants constantly wet, allow to dry between waterings. Additionally, the plant will enjoy being sprayed once a day in summer. In autumn and winter spray three times a week. Spraying does not replace thorough soaking with a watering can or dipping entirely in water (for approximately one hour). After soaking, excess water is shaken off to avoid rot. Plants in flower are more susceptible to rot and should not be soaked. Tillandsia cannot survive in standing water, nor being planted in earth.
- Temperature
- Temperature is not critical, the allowable range being from 32°C down to 10°C. They are sensitive to frost, except for the hardiest species, T. usneoides, which can tolerate night-time frosts down to about -10°C.
- Feeding
- Spray with Bromeliad or houseplant fertilizer, once every two weeks spring and summer and once every four weeks autumn and winter. Dilute the feed to one quarter the recommended strength.
- Flowering
- Although not normally grown for their flowers some Tillandsia will bloom on a regular basis, indeed, some species have very impressive flowers. In addition it is quite common for plants to take on a different leaf colour (usually changing from green to red) when about to flower. This is, sadly, an indication that the plant is monocarpic (flowers once before dying) but offsets around the flowering plant will continue to thrive.
- Offsets
- After flowering, the plant will grow offsets or "pups" around the mother plant. Leave these on if possible, as the plant will be heartier if left to form a colony.
- Fixing plant to a base
- Fix with silicone adhesive or a non-water soluble glue, on the lower leaves but try to avoid the base from which the roots grow. For a mount, try seashells, log sections, driftwood, coral, rocks, pottery, fountains or crystals. If desired, decorate the mount with sphagnum moss (dyed or natural green) and ornaments.
Information like this can be useful, but unless it describes the cultivation of the plant instead of telling readers how to do it, it doesn't belong on Wikipedia. --Rkitko (talk) 23:53, 21 April 2007 (UTC)