Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography
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[edit] Selected biographies list
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/1
John Henry Dearle or J. H. Dearle (1860–1932) was a British textile and stained glass designer trained by Pre-Raphaelite artist and craftsman William Morris. Dearle designed many of the later wallpapers and textiles released by Morris & Co., and contributed background and foliage patterns to tapestry designs featuring figures by Edward Burne-Jones and others. Beginning in his teens as a shop assistant and then design apprentice, Dearle rose to become Morris & Co.'s chief designer by 1890, creating designs for tapestries, embroidery, wallpapers, woven and printed textiles, stained glass, and carpets. Following Morris's death in 1896, Dearle was appointed Art Director of the firm, and became its principal stained glass designer on the death of Burne-Jones in 1898.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/2
Moses H. Cone (1857 – 1908) was a textile entrepreneur, conservationist, and philanthropist of the Gilded Age who was active in the southern United States. He began his career in sales and becamne an innovator who offered finished clothing, which was unusual in an era when textiles were normally sold as unfinished cloth, and carried unusual fabrics such as denim. Cone founded a company that became a leading manufacturer of denim and became a supplier to Levi Strauss and Company. A century after his death, the firm he founded remains in business supplying denim for Levis jeans. Mr. Cone and his wife had no children and donated substantial property upon their deaths. Their home Flat Top Manor has become a North Carolina tourist attraction that receives 25,000 visitors a year. It forms part of Moses H. Cone Memorial Park, which is run by the National Park Service. Their donations founded the Moses Cone Health System, a private nonprofit health care system based in Greensboro, North Carolina and its principal facility Moses H. Cone Memorial Hospital.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/3
Gunta Stölzl (5 March 1897 – 22 April 1983) was a German textile artist who played a fundamental role in the development of the Bauhaus school’s weaving workshop. As the Bauhaus’s only female master she created enormous change within the weaving department as it transitioned from individual pictorial works to modern industrial designs. She joined the Bauhaus as a student in 1920, became a junior master in 1927 and a full master the next year. She was dismissed for political reasons in 1931, a year before the Bauhaus closed under pressure from the Nazis. The textile department was a neglected part of the Bauhaus when Ms. Stölzl began her career, and its active masters were weak on the technical aspects of textile production. She soon became a mentor to other students and reopened the Bauhaus dye studios in 1921. After a brief departure, Stölzl became the school's weaving director in 1925 when it relocated from Weimar to Dessau and expanded the department to increase its weaving and dyeing facilities. She applied ideas from modern art to weaving, experimented with synthetic materials, and improved the department's technical instruction to include courses in mathematics. The Bauhaus weaving workshop became one of its most successful facilities under her direction.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/4
Emil Rieve (June 8, 1892 – January 24, 1975) was a Polish American labor leader. He was president of the Textile Workers Union of America (TWUA) from 1939 to 1956, a vice president of the Congress of Industrial Organizations (CIO) from 1939 to 1955, and a vice president of the AFL-CIO from 1955 to 1960. Emil Rieve was born in Poland and moved to Pennsylvania as a child. He left school early and first became a union member at age fifteen, quickly rising within the union hierarchy. He organized his first strike in 1930 in Reading, Pennsylvania. His aggressive drives to unionize the region's textile workers and achieve union recognition led to the Reading Formula of 1933 in negotiatin with the National Labor Board, a precedent which resolved large numbers of other labor disputes. Rieve was a major figure in the unsuccessful textile workers strike of 1934. When the Congress of Industrial Organizations formed the following year, Rieve received international recognition for his efforts to avoid a rift with the American Federation of Labor. In 1937 Rieve pioneered a successful sit-down strike of 50,000 textile workers that resulted in wage increases. He became acting chairman of the Textile Workers Organizing Committee in 1938 and organized the Textile Workers Union of America in 1939. The union was quite strong under Rieve's stewardship and he played a role in the merger of the AFL with the CIO in 1952.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/5
Sir William Henry Perkin FRS (March 12, 1838 – July 14, 1907) was an English chemist best known for his discovery, at the age of 18, of the first aniline dye, mauveine. Perkin was born and brought up in the East End of London. At the age of 15, he entered London's Royal College of Chemistry, studying under August Wilhelm von Hofmann. He lived on Cable Street in East London, where he would often perform experiments. It was here that he discovered that aniline could be partly transformed into a crude mixture that when extracted with alcohol gave an intense purple colour. This Perkin and von Hofmann commercialized as mauveine. Perkin's discovery and sales resulted in a trade war, as competitors released variations of his initial dye. In 1879, Perkin received the Royal Society's Royal Medal, followed by the Society's Davy Medal in 1889. He was knighted in 1906, the same year he received the first Perkin Medal, established to commemorate the fifty years since his discovery. He died the following year of pneumonia and appendicitis.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/6
Samuel Slater (June 9, 1768 – April 21, 1835) was an early American industrialist popularly known as the "Founder of the American Industrial Revolution" because he brought British textile technology to America. A native of England, he trained as an engineer and violated a British emigration law in 1789 that was designed to keep manufacturing technology within the country when he left for New York in disguise. He soon found work in Rhode Island replicating British factory equipment for a textile mill, and earned the owner's backing to design and build the first water powered mill in the United States. Slater established tenant farms and towns around his textile mills such as Slatersville, Rhode Island. Due to his technical knowledge from Britain, he became a full partner and eventually went into business for himself and grew wealthy. By the end of Slater's life he owned thirteen spinning mills.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/7
Eli Whitney (December 8, 1765 – January 8, 1825) was an American inventor best known as the inventor of the cotton gin. This was one of the key inventions of the industrial revolution and shaped the economy of the antebellum South. Whitney's invention made short staple cotton into a profitable crop, which strengthened the economic foundation of slavery. Despite the social and economic imact of his invention, Whitney lost his profits in legal battles over patent infringement, closed his business, and nearly filed bankruptcy. Afterward Whitney became a firearms manufacturer who supplied muskets to the United States government. He spent the remainder of his career promoting the idea of interchangeable parts for the manufacture of firearms. Although he was not the first to propose the concept of interchangeable parts and never developed a working system of interchangeable parts, he popularized the idea as a useful manufacturing concept. In order to justify the sale price of his contracted firearms to the government he developed improvements in cost accounting that included fixed costs that had gone overlooked in federal estimates for price comparison.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/8
Betsy Ross (January 1, 1752 – January 30, 1836) was an American woman said to have sewn the first American flag which incorporated stars representing the first thirteen colonies. She has attained legendary status in American culture although even in the most recent scholarship "many details [about her life] are conjecture based on research." A Pennsylvania native born to a Quaker family, she was a middle child from a large family who was apprenticed to an upholsterer after basic formal schooling. During her apprenticeship she met and married another apprentice named John Ross, eloping with him when she was 21 to avoid objections over the difference in their religious backgrounds. They married in New Jersey and opened an upholstery business together. The business suffered with the outbreak of war and her husband joined a militia, soon becoming one of the early casualties. Her meeting with George Washington is not well documented. Oral tradition maintains that she was responsible for at least one key design decision of the Americn flag by demonstrating that a five-pointed star was not too difficult to produce. She is known to have remarried a sea captain in 1777, to have had two daughters by her second husband, and to have lived to the age of 84. There is some dispute about whether the Betsy Ross House in Philadelphia really was her actual residence, and in 1975 when she was to be reinterred no bones were found beneath her headstone.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/9
Roosevelt "Rosey" Grier (born July 14, 1932 in Brooklyn, New York) is an African American actor, Christian minister, and former professional football player. He was a noteworthy college football player for Pennsylvania State University who earned a retrospective place in the National Collegiate Athletic Association 100th anniversary list of 100 most influential student athletes. As a professional player, Grier was a member of the original Fearsome Foursome of the 1957 New York Giants and played in the Pro Bowl twice. After Grier's professional sports career he worked as a bodyguard for Robert Kennedy during the 1968 presidential campaign and was guarding the senator's wife during the Robert F. Kennedy assassination. Although unable to prevent that killing, Grier took control of the gun and subdued Sirhan Sirhan. Grier's other activities have been colorful and varied. He hosted his own Los Angeles television show and made approximately 70 guest appearances on various shows during the 1960s and 1970s. Grier is known for his serious pursuit of nontraditional hobbies such as macrame and needlepoint. He has authored several books, including Rosey Grier's Needlepoint for Men in 1973. Grier became an ordained Christian minister in 1983 and travels as an inspirational speaker. He founded American Neighborhood Enterprises, a nonprofit organization that serves inner city youth.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/10
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Elizabeth Hardwick, or Hardwicke, Countess of Shrewsbury, known as Bess of Hardwick, (1527–1608) was the third surviving daughter of John Hardwick of Hardwicke in Derbyshire. She was married four times, firstly to Richard Barlow who died in his teens; secondly to the courtier Sir William Cavendish; thirdly to Sir William St. Loe; and to lastly to George Talbot, 6th Earl of Shrewsbury, sometime keeper to the captive Mary Queen of Scots. An accomplished needlewoman, Bess hosted Mary at Chatsworth House for extended periods in 1569, 1570, and 1571, during which time they worked together on the Oxburgh Hangings. In 1601, Bess ordered an inventory of the household furnishings including textiles at her three properties at Chatsworth and Hardwick, which survives, and in her will she bequeathed these items to her heirs to be preserved in perpetuity. The 400-year-old collection, now known as the Hardwick Hall textiles, is the largest collection of tapestry, embroidery, canvaswork, and other textiles to have been preserved by a single private family.
Portal:Textile Arts/Selected biography/11
William Morris (24 March 1834 – 3 October 1896) was an English artist, writer, and socialist. He was associated with the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, was one of the principal founders of the British Arts and Crafts movement, a pioneer of the socialist movement in Britain, and a writer of poetry, fiction, and translations from the Icelandic. As a co-founder of the domestic design firm Morris & Co., Morris was influential in the resurgence of traditional textile arts in the wake of the industrial revolution, working across a broad spectrum of techniques including tapestry weaving, dyeing with natural dyes, carpet-making, wood-block printing, and embroidery in the style that became known as art needlework. He is perhaps best known as a designer of wallpaper and patterned fabrics and as the founder of the Kelmscott Press.
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