Sloan Peak
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| Sloan Peak | |
|---|---|
 Sloan Peak at sunset, taken from Mount Pugh. |
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| Elevation | 7,835 ft (2,388 m) |
| Location | Washington, United States |
| Range | North Cascades |
| Prominence | 3,875 ft (1,181 m) |
| Coordinates | |
| Topo map | USGS Sloan Peak |
| First ascent | July 30, 1921 by Harry Bedal, Nels Skaar |
| Easiest route | snow climb/rock scramble (Class 3) |
Sloan Peak is a mountain in the North Cascades of Washington, United States. It lies about 12 miles southwest of Glacier Peak, one of the Cascade stratovolcanoes. It lies between the two forks of the upper Sauk River, in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, near the Mountain Loop Highway.
Sloan Peak has been called "the Matterhorn of the Cascades" for its sharp, high peak, accentuated by its isolated position west of the Cascade crest and its low footings. It is easily visible from many locations in the North Cascades. On both the east and southwest sides, Sloan's summit rises more than one vertical mile (1.6 km) above the valley floor in less than two horizontal miles (3.2 km).
The standard route on the peak climbs the South Face and Upper West Face, but it is also known as the "Corkscrew Route" due to its winding nature. It starts on the north side of the peak, and traverses the Sloan Glacier to reach the east edge of the South Face; the route then continues to turn around the peak to reach the summit via the Upper West Face. The total elevation gain of the route is an impressive 5,935 feet (1,809 m). It involves snow and glacier climbing and some rock scrambling (Class 3). Other more technical routes exist on Sloan's other faces.
Sloan Peak was first climbed by Harry Bedal and Nels Skaar on July 30, 1921, via the Corkscrew Route.
[edit] References
- Fred Beckey, Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2 (Second Edition), The Mountaineers, 1996.
[edit] External links
- Sloan Peak is at coordinates Coordinates:
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