Saraghrar
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| Saraghrar | |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 7,349 metres (24,112 feet) |
| Location | Pakistan |
| Range | Hindu Kush |
| Prominence | 1,979 m (6,493 ft)[1] |
| Coordinates | |
| First ascent | 1959 |
| Easiest route | glacier/snow/ice |
Saraghrar is the fourth highest independent peak in the Hindu Kush. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7,000 m (22,966 ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. The main summits are: NE summit (7349m), NW summit (7300m), SW summit (7148m), S summit (7307m) and SE summit (7208m). To date (2005), the NW summit is the only unclimbed peak of the massif.
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[edit] Climbing history
In 1958 a British team led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the NE summit (7349m). This expedition was stopped by the death of member P. S. Nelson. The year after, on August 24th 1959, NE peak was climbed for the first time by an Italian team led by Fosco Maraini and including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio and Betto Pinelli. Their route ascended via the Niroghi glacier on the northeast of the massif.
On August 24th 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, members of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro Yamamoto (Mountaineering club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka climbing club) led by Akiyama Reiske, summitted the SW peak for the first time on July 29th.
Three Catalan expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the NW summit via a rocky route. On August 9th, 1982, Juan Lopez Diaz (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Llop and Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the NW II summit (7200m).
In 2005, five members of a Swiss expedition led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reached the SE summit (7208m) for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24th; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29th).
[edit] References
[edit] See also
[edit] Books
- Paropamiso (by Fosco Maraini, 2003) (Mondadori, Milano, Italy) ISBN 88-04-51209-1
- Chitral Tour Guide Book (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 2004)
- Hindu Kush Study Series (2 Volumes) (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 1994/1997) (Rehmat Printing Press, Peshawar, Pakistan)
