Riccarton, Ayrshire

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Riccarton is a village and parish in East Ayrshire, Scotland. It lies across the River Irvine from Kilmarnock. The river Irvine divides the parishes of Riccarton and Kilmarnock and the river used to form the boundary between the districts of Kyle and Cunninghame.[1]

Etymology
The origin of the name 'Riccarton' is from a corruption of 'Richard's town'. This Richard was Sir Richard Wallace, uncle of William Wallace.[2]

Contents








[edit] History

The village became a burgh of barony in 1638, but its civic powers were never exercised. Riccarton is also sometimes called Ellerslie.[3] In 1875 Riccarton had a population of 1889,[4] but by 1951 that had increased to between 7000 and 8000; many of whom were employed at the Glenfield Works in Kilmarnock.[5]

Riccarton has effectively been absorbed into Kilmarnock, partly through the growth of council housing estates at Shortlees, Witchknowe and Burnpark, and later by the improvements to the A71 (T) road, the building of which, together with associated interchanges, effectively made the old village centre into a large traffic island.

[edit] The barony of Riccarton

The ancient 109 merkland[6] barony included 54 separate landholdings, including the coalheughs of Riccarton and all the buildings, orchards, woods, mills, and fishings (salmon and others). Riccarton and Shaws mill were included. Also the £17 lands of Kaimshill, Auchindinane and Hunthall, oddly the £5 land of Elderslie in Renfrewshire, the 4 merklands of Inchgotrig and the 2 merklands of Holme.[3]

[edit] The churches

Riccarton (Scotland)
Riccarton
Riccarton
Location of Riccarton, East Ayrshire
The house built at the old bridge from the ruins of old Riccarton kirk.
The house built at the old bridge from the ruins of old Riccarton kirk.

A pre-reformation Riccarton parish church stood in the centre of the old burial ground; first noted, as a chapel, in 1229, sub-ordinate to the church of Dundonald.[7] It was granted by Walter, High Steward of Scotland, to the short lived independent convent of Dalmulin. This convent, dissolved in 1238, and the 'chapel' was given to the monastery of Paisley, becoming the parish church which still belonged to the monks. The last patrons were the Cunninghames of Caprington, whose impressive memorial still stands; some of the Campbells of Treesbank are also intered here.[8][9] The old cemetery has a number of interesting pre-reformation style gravestones, ornamented with scenes of men ploughing with oxen, one with a bodkin, shears and iron, another with millstones, wheels, and other gearing, and even a few with Garden of Eden scenes. The oldest discernible stone is marked 1641.[10] Unfortunately many are very worn and heraldic devices, etc. can no longer be made out with any certainty.

From the presbytery records it would appear to have been rebuilt in 1725.[11] It was replaced by the present church (at NS 4282 3639) in 1823, which was built on the old Judgement or Moot hill of the barony of Riccarton. Of the old church in the small churchyard nearby, nothing now remains above ground, the stones being used to build a single story house close to the old bridge.[12]

The manse no longer exists, however it had a claim to significance in that it had a mantelpiece in its kitchen which came from the dining room of Riccarton castle.[13]

[edit] Old cemetery gallery - 2007

Detail of memorial to Caprington Cunninghames.
A memorial to Caprington Cunninghames.
A memorial bearing a bodkin, shears and an iron.

[edit] Local worthies and eccentrics

Riccarton Inn from the old cemetery.
Riccarton Inn from the old cemetery.
Parts of Riccartoun with Kilmarnock in 1880.
Parts of Riccartoun with Kilmarnock in 1880.[14]

The Rev. Alexander Moodie, minister of the parish, is buried in the old cemetery. Robbie Burns mentions him in The Holy Fair.[9]

Sandy McCrone was a blind fiddler who is remembered for having climbed to the top of the new church when the scaffolding was till in place and placing a potato on the beak of the weathercock.[15]

William Stevenson was a local beggar who came from Dunlop. About 1787 he separated from his wife and made the unusual pledge that if either of them were to make an attempt at reconciliation then that person was to pay the other a £100; a considerable sum in those times. When he died it was found that he was worth around nine hundred pounds. He set aside money for all the beggars in Ayrshire to come and see his body lying in state and then enjoy a great feast in his honour.[12]

Sir James Shaw, Bart., a Lord Mayor of London was born at Mosshead farm on the Treesbank estate in 1764.[16] His statue now stands outside the Dick Institute in Kilmarnock.[5] Sir James endeared himself to Scotland by the active part which he took in raising money in London for the widow and children of Robbie Burns.[17]

[edit] The Seat of Judgement

The present 1823 parish church of Riccarton stands on a mound which is partly natural and partly artificial and which was formerly called "Seat of Judgement", having been a court or moot hill where justice was administered by the old baron court of Riccarton. Paterson in 1863 called it the "Moat."[8][18] Soil from the foundations of the new church on the old moot hill was used to fill up part of the river bed when its course was changed at East Shaw Street, and this area though north of the Irvine still lies in Riccarton parish.[19] Witchknowe is an area of Riccarton named after a low hill. No definite site for the 'Gallow's hill' associated with the Moot hill has been identified and this is a candidate, together with the 'Castle hill.'

The 'Castle Hill' in 1895 was a round-topped mound with an oval base close to Damhead House. It was 26 paces in its longest diameter at the base, 15 feet high on one side and 4 foot 6 inches on the other. It was covered with trees and had a seat and a path to the top.[20]

[edit] Riccarton castle and the William Wallace connection

The name Wallace was spelled in various ways, such as 'Waleys', 'Walensis', 'Walays', etc.[3] The family were the barons of Riccarton and it is said that Wallace's father was born here. Some go so far as to suggest that William Wallace himself was born in Riccarton.[5] After his murder of Selby, Governor of Dundee, William Wallace first sought refuge in Riccarton castle; another time being after he had revenged his uncle's death at the Barns of Ayr.[21]

Yardside farm to the left was the site of Riccarton castle. The boys on Riccarton green are playing a game of the Scots and the English.
Yardside farm to the left was the site of Riccarton castle. The boys on Riccarton green are playing a game of the Scots and the English.[2]

A little below the watermeetings[22] of the Irvine and the Kilmarnock Water took place a pivotal incident in 1297 [23]which led to the Scottish Nation regaining its independence following what was effectively its conquest by Edward I of England.

Sir William Wallace was fishing on the Irvine at Monksholm also Maxholm farm,[22] about half a mile to the west of old Riccarton castle,[24] when a troop of English soldiers dismounted and demanded that he give up his catch. He offered to share, but this was refused and he was grossly insulted by the soldiers for his temerity. He had no weapons, however he used his fishing rod to disarm one soldier and then killed him with his own sword. He similarly dispatched two others and the remaining soldiers then fled.

He went to his uncle's castle, the nearby Riccarton castle and took on the disguise of a woman working at her spinning-wheel, thereby eluding the vengeful English troops.[15] In the following months an uprising slowly gained impetus through the example of one unarmed Scotsman killing three armed soldiers.[22] A thorn tree called the "Bickering Bush" stood nearby and its site is marked on the 1860 OS map and a public house by that name used to stand in Riccarton, although another still exists in Bonnyton, Kilmarnock.[22]

John Wallace of Riccarton married the heiress of Craigie castle and this became the principal residence , the old castle being allowed to fall into ruins.[25] In 1875 all that remained of the castle was some stately trees, including a pear tree supposedly planted by William Wallace.[22]

[edit] Death at Riccarton's Nether ford

At the Nether Ford on the Irvine near Riccarton, Robert the Bruce in 1307 sent Sir James Douglas[26] to intercept the English soldiers commanded by Sir Philip de Mowbray. The English were ambushed as they crossed the ford on the Irvine and sixty lay dead before the panic-stricken survivors fled in panic.

[edit] Riccarton Gallery

The old judgement hill at Riccarton, now topped by a church.
The historical plaque for the old judgement hill at Riccarton.
A milestone at the lazy corner near the parish kirk with directions to Kilmarnock, Hurlford, Galston and Ayr.[27][28]
The Parish kirk on the moot hill.

[edit] Riccarton old bridge

Riccarton old bridge
Riccarton old bridge

Riccarton Bridge is an 18th century 3-span, segmental arched bridge, with dressed stone arch rings, rubble spandrels and triangular cutwaters.[29] The first recorded wheeled vehicles to be used in Ayrshire were carts offered gratis to labourers working on Riccarton Bridge, Kilmarnock, in 1726, and even then some of the labourers refused them.[30][31] The 1860 OS map shows that stepping stones crossed the river just upstream of the old bridge and just before the confluence of the Kilmarnock water with the river Irvine.

[edit] The Toll Road

Riccarton parish was often in dispute with the Kilmarnock to Cumnock committee over the payment of so called 'conversion' money for the Toll Road maintenance. Even after recourse to law the committee still failed to obtain any money from Riccarton and Galston parishes.[32]

[edit] Riccarton mill and cottages

At Map reference: NS 4463 3701 lies the old Riccarton mill with its associated cottages. The mill wheel has gone and the building has been converted into a private house.[33]

[edit] Riccarton Institute

John Galloway, Esq., of Barleith and Dollars Collieries built an institute in New Street Riccarton for the use of the working-men in the locality. The building still survives as a Community Centre run by East Ayrshire Council.[34]

[edit] Riccarton and Craigie railway station

The village had a railway station by this name on the Gatehead and Hurlford branch of the Glasgow and South Western Railway. Part of the line remains open to supply a petrol depot in Kilmarnock. The remains of the station were extant until the new Kilmarnock bypass removed all traces. It was a goods only station (no passengers) as the line never had a publicly advertised passenger service. It closed officially on 5 July 1965, originally just called Riccarton and renamed in 1905.[35]

[edit] Bellfield Estate

The old walled garden.
The old walled garden.

This grand Georgian mansion and its 240 acres of woodlands and gardens, including a notable rock garden, were gifted to Kilmarnock by the Misses Buchanan, Elizabeth, Jane and Margaret, in around 1879. The ladies were the daughters of George Buchanan, a Glasgow merchant.[36] Bellfield housing scheme borders it.[37]

The Buchanan Bequest was donated by the Buchanan Family from Bellfield House. It contains only 100 titles, from the original 1,500 books donated, dating from 1759 to 1856; these can be found in the Ayrshire Collection at the Dick Institute. The Museum Service also has a number of items, including those on history, biographies, dictionaries, reference works, periodicals, general literature, poetry & theology, industry, agriculture & natural history, travel, topography & illustrated works.[38] The house was demolished in 1970, much of the land was used for building council housing and the remainder is now used as a public park and playing fields.[39]

[edit] Bellfield gallery 2007

Woodlands near the old mansion house.
Woodlands in the old estate.
The old lodge on one of the main driveways.
The old rockery near the demolished mansion house.

[edit] Water courses

The Simon's burn runs down from near High Coodham, through the grounds of Treesbank House and then runs underground through the village and finally enters the Irvine. The Todgrige burn runs from near Muirmill Equestrian centre to join the Irvine at the Caprington castle estate. Ainslie's map of 1821 shows a loch near Earlston, with a farm named Lochside. [40]

[edit] Coal and limestone mining

Coal existed in great abundance and was mined from a very early date. Anthracite or blind coal was chiefly mined and limestone was quarried for use as a 'manure' on the fields as well as for making mortar.[7]

[edit] Miscellany

Riccarton is also a locality to the south-west of Edinburgh, the site of Heriot-Watt University's main campus

Riccarton Junction railway station was on the Waverley Route line built by the North British Railway. It closed in 1969.

Mr & Mrs. Campbell from Treesbank attended the Eglinton Tournament of 1839.[41]

[edit] References

  1. ^ Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. Kilmarnock. Pps. 49 - 47.
  2. ^ a b Wilson, Professor & Chambers, Robert (1840) The Land of Burns. Pub. Blackie & Son. London. P. 74.
  3. ^ a b c The Clan Wallace.
  4. ^ Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 54.
  5. ^ a b c Strawhorn, John & Boyd, William (1951) The Third Statistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire. Pub. Oliver & Boyd. Edinburgh. P. 456.
  6. ^ A Researcher's Guide to Local History terminology
  7. ^ a b Groome, Francis H. (1903). Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland. Pub. Caxton. London. P. 1379.
  8. ^ a b Paterson, James (1863). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. Pub. James Stillie. Edinburgh. Vol.1.-Kyle. P. 639.
  9. ^ a b MacIntosh, John (1894) Ayrshire Nights' Entertainments. Pub. Dunlop & Drennan. Kilmarnock. P. 241 - 242.
  10. ^ Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 51 - 52.
  11. ^ Riccarton church on the RCAHMS site
  12. ^ a b Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 53.
  13. ^ Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 55.
  14. ^ McKay, Archibald. (1880) The History of Kilmarnock. Pub. A.McKay, Kilmarnock. Following P. 357.
  15. ^ a b Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 50.
  16. ^ Paterson, James (1863). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. Pub. James Stillie. Edinburgh. Vol.1.-Kyle. P. 641 - 645.
  17. ^ Sir James Shaw in Ayrshire Roots.
  18. ^ The Moot hill.
  19. ^ Strawhorn, John & Boyd, William (1951) The Third Statistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire. Pub. Oliver & Boyd. Edinburgh. P. 456 - 457.
  20. ^ Smith, John (1895) Prehistoric Man in Ayrshire. Pub. Elliot Stock. London. P. 130 - 131.
  21. ^ MacIntosh, John (1894) Ayrshire Nights' Entertainments. Pub. Dunlop & Drennan. Kilmarnock. P. 90.
  22. ^ a b c d e Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. Kilmarnock. Pps. 49 - 50.
  23. ^ Robertson, William (1908). Ayrshire. Its History and Historic Families. Vol.1. Pub. Dunlop & Dreenan. Kilamrnock. P. 61 - 63.
  24. ^ Wilson, Professor & Chambers, Robert (1840) The Land of Burns. Pub. Blackie & Son. London. P. 75.
  25. ^ MacIntosh, John (1894) Ayrshire Nights' Entertainments. Pub. Dunlop & Drennan. Kilmarnock. P. 90 - 91.
  26. ^ Robertson, William (1908). Ayrshire. Its History and Historic Families. Vol.1. Pub. Dunlop & Dreenan. Kilamrnock. P. 92 - 93.
  27. ^ Adamson, Archibald (1875) Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 50.
  28. ^ The Riccarton milestone
  29. ^ Riccarton bridge.
  30. ^ Strawhorn, John and Boyd, William (1951). The Third Statistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire. Pub.
  31. ^ Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. T. Stevenson. Kilmarnock. P. 48.
  32. ^ McClure, David (1994). Tolls and Tacksmen. Ayr Arch & Nat Hist Soc. Ayrshire Monograph No.13. P. 21 & 22.
  33. ^ Riccarton Mill.
  34. ^ McKay, Archibald (1880) The History of Kilmarnock. Pub. Archibald McKay, Kilmarnock. P. 346.
  35. ^ Robin, G. H. (1962), The Nith Valley Route. The Railway Magazine, January P. 23.
  36. ^ Love, Dane (2005) Lost Ayrshire. Ayrshire's Lost Architectural Heritage. Pub. Birlinn Ltd. ISBN 1-84158-356-1. P. 26.
  37. ^ Strawhorn, John & Boyd, William (1951) The Third Statistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire. Pub. Oliver & Boyd. Edinburgh. P. 457.
  38. ^ The Buchanan Bequest
  39. ^ Love, Dane (2005) Lost Ayrshire. Ayrshire's Lost Architectural Heritage. Pub. Birlinn Ltd. ISBN 1-84158-356-1. P. 26.
  40. ^ Ainslie, John, 1745-1828. Map of the Southern Part of Scotland. Pub. Edinburgh : Macreadie Skelly & Co., 1821.
  41. ^ Ker, Rev. William Lee (1900) Kilwinnning. Pub. A.W.Cross, Kilwinning. P. 321.

[edit] External links

Coordinates: 55°35′N, 4°29′W