Potrero Chico
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
El Potrero Chico is an internationally renowned rock climbing area in the Mexican state of Nuevo León, 3 km outside the town of Hidalgo. Long a destination for rock-climbers from around the world, Climbers from Austin, Texas, notably, Jeff Jackson, Kevin Gallahger, and Alex Caitlin, along with Colorado climber/raver Kurt Smith started developing the area back in the 1990s. Development cntinued in the 21st century, notably by first accentionists Magic Ed, Alex Catlin, and Dane Bass. Many climbers have attempted to build bridges with the local community, but there remains much work to be done. The climbs are mostly situated in a canyon at the entrance of the park, while the interior offers undeveloped mountain terrain with lots of good mountain biking, ranging from very easy to expert routes .
El Potrero draws many climbers from throughout Mexico. It is considered one of the top 10 locations to sport climb in the world. In addition to well over 500 routes, the area boasts the second longest sport route in North America, Timewave Zero, ringing in at 23 pitches and over 2000 feet. New routes are continuously being developed. There is a large range of different climbs, most of them in the 5.8 to 5.13 grade. The type of climbing can range from steep overhanging face to easy slab. The rock is usually quite sharp.
El Potrero is a unique geological formation of limestone cliffs, some as high as 2000 feet. The eventual statis of the land uncertain. Much of the area is a "protected zone" (NOT a national park), a legal classification of little actual consequence. After the Mexican Revolution of 1910, the land within the park was divided amongst the townspeople as per the ejido system. This means that the town ejido commission currently owns and controls 99% of the climbing.
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[edit] Main climbing areas
Las Estrellas: Located on the east side of the main canyon. 5.9 to 5.12. Mostly single pitch climbs.
Club Mex:
Mini super Wall: Directly across from the Central Scrutinizer Wall. The first hand full of climbs encountered here are good warm up routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.9+. The route El Volvo Scorcho (5.9 and requires 9 quickdraws) is named after the car accident that almost killed the first accentionist, Dane Bass.
Mota Wall: One of the most popular walls located on the Lower Sense of Religion. Mota Wall houses many of the classic climbs at El Potrero such as La Vaca and Double Cherry Pie. Easily accessed area. Lots of easy to medium range climbs.
Mileski Wall: Above the Mota Wall. Hard overhanging climbs.
The spires: Very popular areas. Two rock horns about 200' tall on the west side of the canyon.
Outrage Wall: Lots of beautiful climbs in the mid 10s to 12 range.
The Surf: 15 minutes walk from the spires, hard overhanging from 5.12A to 5.13B
Central Srutinizer, Virgin canyon: West of the canyon
El Sendero Luminoso: This area is found before entering the main canyon, on the west side. It is where the climb El Sendero Luminoso, possibly the hardest multipitch climb in Mexico, is situated (15 pitch, 5.12+).
Sense of Religion: One of the farthest areas from the main gate.
[edit] Weather
The temperature can vary quite a lot from day to day and from sunny to shady areas. During the summer months however, it is recommended to climb in the shade only. Due to the shape of the canyon, the weather outside may be cloudy and raining, but sunny inside the potrero. It is always possible to find a shady area. In the winter months, the usually daily high is about 18 degrees Celsius yet some days it can reach close to 25 degrees. The low is usually about 5-10 degrees but snow is always possible.
[edit] Multi-Pitch Climbs
Yankee Clipper - 15 Pitches (5.8 to 5.12c)
Snott Girlz - 7 Pitches (5.9 to 5.10+)
Timewave Zero - 23 Pitches (5.7 to 5.12)
Pancho Villa Rides Again - 5 Pitches (5.9 to 5.11d)
Treasure of Sierra Madre - 7 Pitches (5.7 to 5.10c)
Estrellita - 12 Pitches (5.7 to 5.10b)
Agua De Coco - 3 Pitches (5.10a to 5.10d)
Black Cat Bone - 9 Pitches (5.6 to 5.10d)
Space Boyz - 11 Pitches (5.8 to 5.10d)
[edit] Accommodations
There are quite a few campground/ranches just outside the park from 3-6$ a night. Free camping is also available in the park. Most of the campgrounds also offer rooms for rent and there are several rental houses in the area. For more information on campgrounds, hotels or rental homes check with the tourism director through www.potrerokrew.com
