Pir Mangho Urs
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Pir Mangho Urs (Urdu: عرس پیر منگھو) is an annual festival (urs) at the shrine of Sufi Pir Mangho Haji Syed Sakhi Sultan at Karachi, Sindh, Pakistan.
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[edit] Manghopir
Manghopir has the oldest Sufi shrines in Karachi, hot sulphur springs that are believed to have curative powers, and many crocodiles - believed locally to be the sacred disciples of Pir Mangho. Balochs often call this place as ‘Mangi’ or Garm-aap / Sard-aap (due to the presence of the hot & cold springs).
[edit] Sheedis and festivals
Manghopir is mostly inhabited by one of Pakistan's smallest ethnic communities, Sheedi. Sheedi are said to be the descendants of African slaves brought from Zanzibar and maintain their distinct African identity in the midst of the dominating South Asian cultures.
Presently, these African-Pakistanis live in various parts of Karachi. Most are found in Lyari, but they are also found in Malir, Moaach Goth, Manghopir, and further interior at Sindh and Balochistan. Due to Lyari's ethnic population, it is often called ‘Little Africa’. In Baghdadi, Lyari (an abode of such ethnicity) vicinities have names like Shedi Village and Nairobi. During the British rule or possible before, Baghdadi and many areas in Lyari functioned as a slave market where African slaves were brought and sold. Women from these black families worked as nannies for the children of Hindu traders. Later, these people amalgamated themselves with local Balochs and also adopted various Balochi and Islamic traditions, in addition maintaining their distinct African cultural heritage. For example, some African touch festivals like Gowaati, Layvaa (dancing over the fire), dhammal, beating Congo Drums and many forms of witch craft are still practiced. A prominent Urdu poet and Lyari citizen, Noon Meem Danish, proudly claims to be the great-great-grandchild of an African slave from Zanzibar. “Now after centuries of amalgamation, these peoples proudly call themselves as Baloch or Makrani."
[edit] Crocodiles
The crocodiles are an integral part of the shrine, chronicle of the saint, and are so tightly interwoven that it is almost impossible to judge between fact & fiction. There are many traditions about myth of crocodiles, as if it is believed that Baba Farid gifted the reptiles to Manghopir. The second myth is quite factious - during a visit of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar (the celebrated saint of Sindh) in order to make the barren valley more inhabitable, he caused a hot spring to issue forth from the rock and a grove of date palms to spring up from the ground and the crocodiles were originally the lice of a saint, which he gifted to Pir Mango, to put them into the pond and then each turned into a crocodile. According to a third legend, the crocodiles were introduced in Manghopir by Mor Mubarak (also a saint), who brought them from a cave in Korangi, as a result, after the name of saint, the chief of crocodiles (the eldest one) came to be known as ‘Mor Sahib’.
According to scientific explanations, these crocodiles were carried through some heavy floods, during ancient times and later gathered or collected at this pond. Archaeological investigations have also suggested the existence of a Bronze Age settlement (2500-1700 BC) near Manghopir, who worshipped crocodiles and before the advent of Islam crocodiles were also thought sacred for Hindus. More to the point, certain signs of crocodile-myth in form of animal magic & witchcraft are also seen in the African countries like Guinea and Zaire. Certainly, these trends are because of the unique nature of the reptile, which is always quick and ruthless and one who maintains a cool behavior at the surface of water, while paddling like a devil underneath.
[edit] Mangopir festival
This unique crocodile festival is regularly celebrated every year during the month of Rabiul-Awwal and runs almost a week. The colorful rituals of the Sheedi tribe also flavored this festival with a unique African touch. The festival attracts many people of all ethnic groups. People make their mannats (pledges) at the shrine of Pir Mangho through offering fresh meat (believed to be the sacrificial) to the crocodiles. Shedis believe that the creatures do not harm the saint's followers and because of this bury crocodiles with equal respect and formalities as they would give a human being. There is place reserved for burying dead crocodiles near the shrine.
The highlight of the Manghopir festival also called ‘Shedi Mela’ and a garlanding ceremony, during which the gaddi nasheen (the holy successor) puts a garland around the neck of the chief of the crocodiles (Mor Sahib). Success of this rite depends solely on the mood of old creature, but according to his keeper, he obliges most of the time and presents himself for the ritual, usually chunks of fresh meat help do the trick.
As with almost all such holy shrines, Manghopir's shrine is located on a small hill. The grave of the saint remains covered with an embroidered silk fabric in a small tomb while musicians with traditional instruments sing praises for the saint outside. During the festival, the tomb is washed with sandalwood and rose water. Outside the shrine, there are various stalls and mini-shops, selling knickknacks and items associated with the shrine.
Nearby is a crocodile pond, measuring about 400 feet long and 200 feet wide, which nourished by an underground stream, contains hundreds of crocodiles from six to seven feet in length. ‘Mor Sahib – the Chief of Crocodiles (the eldest one) is about 100 years old and over 12 feet in length. The flourishing breeding has made the pond too small for the expanding reptile population, which is naturally rough and tough and famous for its longevity. The crocodile population is under threat due to a water shortage in the pond, caused by established water pumping at the natural source of freshwater for the pond.
During the week-long Urs (crocodile festival), among Shedis, a large number of people descend on the shrine from all over Sindh, Balochistan and Punjab. There is much fun as the caravans of devotees make their way to the shrine.
The Sindh Auqaf Department, Govt. of Pakistan regularly appoints official caretaker for such shrines and holy places. These caretaking jobs normally remain within the family, like son after father. This shrine has to have a caretaker to take care of the crocodiles and the shrine itself. But the Auqaf department is not paying his proper role and thanks to the large number of devotees, who flock to the shrine, the semi-aquatics get a regular supply of fresh meat. Anyone desirous of having his wish fulfilled, slaughters a goat or sheep and offers some meat to the crocodiles.
[edit] Hot springs and healing resort
There are hot and cold springs about a kilometer from the shrine. Warm water passing through the sulphur rocks is said to contain some medicinal qualities. Many people with skin diseases regularly come from long distances to have a bath to cure them. There are separate swimming pools and shower rooms for men and women. Scientific analysis has shown that this warm water is naturally saturated with carbon dioxide, besides containing some sulpher & other skin friendly nourishments, which are no doubt suitable for many skin-diseased patients.
