User:Pengo/sourdough

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Contents

[edit] Sourdough

Main articles: Sourdough and Levain
  • Measuring gluten: cookie spread test, farinograph, elastograph
  • insoluble protein (gluten forming) content, vs. starch content
  • germ (shorts) and bran are removed from the kernel when white flour is milled because they also negate the elastic properties of the gluten.
  • germ and bran contain almost all the bran and vitamin B
  • endosperm (the rest) contains most of the protein and carbohydrates
  • e.g. 72% endosperm (straight flour) to 28% germ and bran (feed)
  • texture and crumb of the bread.
  • Eastern US: soft spring wheat, soft winter wheat. mid-west US/Canada: hard spring wheat and hard winter wheat.
  • Spring wheat, Winter wheat, Soft wheat, Hard wheat.
  • Soft flour contains 8.4 to 8.8 percent protein, 0.44 to 0.48 percent ash, 1 percent fat, and 76 to 77 percent starch.
  • Hard flour contains 11.2 to 11.8 percent protein, 0.45 to 0.50 percent ash, 1.2 percent fat, and 74 to 75 percent starch.
  • azodicarbonamide, flour additive, banned in Australia.
  • Straight flour
  • Patent flour, 5 types. First, extra short, fancy. Bread ones: Medium patent flour, long patent flour,
  • Clear flour, by product of producing patent flour from straight. Classes: fancy, first clear, and second clear. Used to make pastry flour. Dark colour, used to lighten the texture of breads such as rye or whole-wheat yet maintain the deep color desirable in such breads.
  • Stuffed straight flour is straight flour with some clear flour added.
  • High-gluten flour
  • break and reduction operations in the milling process
  • aleurone
  • gluten (viscoelastic): gliadin (elasticity, extensibility, stretchiness, allergy); glutenin (strength, cohesiveness)
  • hearth bread
  • Chopin Alveograph or Extensopraph: elasticity vs rising power
  • paste molli, soft doughs, from medium or average strength flours, in the production of Pugliese (Italian town Apulia), ciabatta, Francese ("French" in Italian), pane piuma (feather bread)
  • Croccantina (Ciabatta)
  • [1]
  • 120 - 160 Weak flours: Biscotti
  • 160 - 250 Medium or average strength flours: soft doughs ([[paste molli) in the production of Pugliese, ciabatta, Francese, pane piuma, etc., for firm doughs (paste dure) in the production of pane ferrarese, and also for the refreshment of natural yeast (lievito naturale).
  • 250 - 310 Flours of strength obtained from high quality national wheat and strong wheat of national or foreign origin, used in the production of maggiolino, baguette, rosetta, soffiato, & biove.
  • 310 - 320 Flours extracted from strong wheat: doughs with a long fermentation, indirect method doughs employing a biga or lieviti (natural yeasts) with long rises, or for sweet raised doughs such as pandoro, panettone, veneziane, etc.
  • Alveograph, or Extensopraph, Falling Number,
  • Brabender Farinograph and results in a Farinogram.
  • Brabender unit
  • Mixing Tolerance Index (MTI)
  • enzymes (amylase), liquifies starch
  • Falling Number (or Hagberg Index), inverse of alpha-amylase amount
  • Maltose Number, gassing power
  • Rapid Mix Test
  • SH group
  • dough can be developed mechanically, (by kneading), chemically (by mixtures of oxidants and reductants) or fermentatively
  • kneading is absolutely essential only for straight dough breads
  • ascorbic acid (Vitamin C)
  • the french add fava bean or soy bean flour which has a lipoxygenase which oxidizes flour i.e. takes SH groups and make them S-S i.e. forms linkages and also bleaches the carotenoid pigments for a whiter crumb.
  • dry yeast should be reconstituted at 104-114 F is because at lower temps the yeast lyse and release glutathione, (leading to slasckness)
  • 45 to 90 mg ascorbic acid per kg flour
  • Peel (tool)
  • chloroamine cannot be boiled or evaporated out
  • under 30 C favours Lactobacilli brevis which produces both lactic acid and acetic acid.
  • above 30 C favours Lactobacilli plantarum which is homofermentative and only produces lactic acid.
  • acid profile: degree of hydration (soft doughs favor lactic acid formation while stiff doughs favor acetic acid).
  • diastatic malt
  • diastase, converts the starch in damaged starch granules to sugars (eg maltose) that are utilizable by the yeast over an extended ferment
  • wild yeast most commonly are aneuploid or polyploid
  • Nancy Silverton 'Breads from the La Brea Bakery' (recommended)
  • lactobacilli / yeast varieties: [2]
  • cycloheximide
  • Rye flour has more sugars than wheat, so better for starting a new starter. Organic better too.
  • proteolytic enzyme
  • Whole grain breads that do not rise or spring as markedly do not need to be slashed if they are proofed in a high-humidity environment.
  • metabolism details
  • Hooch, Refrigerator hooch
  • hootch: The liquid layer that can accumulate in the top of a container used to store a thin (very liquid) leaven.
  • baker's percentage (or hydration or absorption ratio. Similar to dough yield (europe)
  • waffle batter consistency
  • small bubbles vs frothing or hooch
  • picnic dish
  • acetate can kill commercial yeasts in sourdough culture (after a couple of refreshments), as it is less acetate tolerant than sourdough yeasts.
  • Poolish, Biga (bread baking)
  • Chef (bread baking) : a dough-like starter that is either an unrefreshed levain or a piece of dough saved from the previous day's bake.
  • Levain or Biga Natural (Italian): a chef that has been refreshed with flour and water.
  • Mother (bread baking): this is a batter like starter of flour and water that is unrefreshed
  • Sour: a mother that has been refreshed with flour and water.
  • Mother = chef - it only depends on the consistency (chef dough-like, mother batter-like). Most people here in the US call this just plain starter.
  • Sour = levain - again it depends on the consistency of the starter. (Sour batter-like, levain dough-like) - The difference between these terms and the ones above is that they represent the term that indicates that the starter is activated.
  • Chef, levain, biga natural, mother, and sour contain only natural yeast cultures.
  • All of the above are often referred to as either starters or sponges.
  • barm, levain. may be made from brewing sediment
  • leaven, leavener
  • ATCC: American Type Culture Collection [www.atcc.org]
  • Anfrischsauer (first stage / first expansion), Anstellgut (inoculant). German baking sequence.
  • autolyse, autolysis: A rest during kneading (5-20 minutes)
  • autolyse: technique developed by French baker Raymond Calvel (bb p55)
  • hearth loaf (not in a pan)
  • biga. may be a sponge raised with commercial yeast. (Italian)
  • damaged starch: Starch granules that have been broken in milling and are therefore accessible to water and to amylase at temperatures below the gelatinization temperature.
  • detente: French term for the rest period loaves get between the division and rounding of the dough at the end of the fermentation stage and the shaping of the loaves.
  • Dough yield (Teigausbeute)
  • elasticity
  • gelatinization: Uncurling and hydration of starch chains to form a gel. Occurs as a suspension of starch granules is heated.
  • gluten window
  • Levain de tout point
  • pointage: The fist rising after mixing (usually called the fermentation stage). (French)
  • proof: Usually means the final stage of rising, after the loaves have been shaped. Sometimes used ("first proof") to refer to the rise after kneading and before loaves are shaped (fermentation stage), or to a test done to see whether commercial yeast is still viable.
  • Sauerteig: Sourdough. (German)
  • supernatant: The same as hooch. the liquid that rises to the top of a flour/water suspension that has settled.
  • titratable acid
  • Vollsauer
  • cold room, coldroom
  • white factory bread, high-rise white bread pumped out from a factory
  • bran's phytic acid interferes with absorbtion of minerals. Depends on person, and people can gain tolerance (period of transition diet). Problem bran found in very exterior of wheat berry. 90-95% extraction may be ideal. Fermented wholemeal does not seem to be a problem (sourdough or lengthy fermentation yeasted)
  • chapatti with Atta flour
  • Dietary Goals (US Government)
  • gluten flour
  • "authentic" bread best eaten with portion of legumes
  • dow foo, dowfoo
  • rougue bakers: alum, bone meal
  • food technician (Food processing technician, food technologist) vs artisan (craftsman)
  • Hard flour (long fermentation: 4 to 12 hours). Soft flour: kneeded and ferment less (up to 4 hours)
  • suspects gluten allergies are from added gluten flour
  • Soft flour = cake flour. Can be soft and have talc-like texture (called biscuit flour in Australia).
  • Hard flour, can be more sandy
  • flour mill, flour miller
  • stoneground vs roller milled
  • bakery, bakehouse
  • basic ingredients: flour, water, egg, leavener, fat
  • shortener, shortening: fat shortens gluten strands
  • Baker percentage
  • Tempering (not of metals), Tempering (cooking)
  • heat transfer: radiation, conduction, convection (and induction)
  • carryover cooking, cooking that continues after the food is removed from the heat source.
  • double boiler
  • cookware, bakeware
  • silicone baking pad
  • dark hard-anodized aluminum
  • masonry oven, cloche, baking stone
  • "natural leaven": 'mixed ferment cultured from the environment and sustained with repeated inoculation.'
  • Salt rising bread (Salt Rising Bread), Clostridium perfringens
  • altrus brat (old bread), barm, biga, chef, desem, levain, madre bianca, mother, pâte fermentée (old dough), poolish, sponge, starter, sourdough starter
  • altrus brat, stale bread soaked in water, squeezed dry, ferment overnight at room temp, added to bread at 25% of total flour. Example usage, pumpernickel.
  • flakiness, tenderness, amount of browning, crumb structure
  • structure builder (toughener), tenderizer, moistener, drier
  • structure builder: flour (gluten, starch), egg (egg protein molecules), cocoa powder, starch
  • tenderiser: sugar, syrup, fat, oil, leavening agent
  • moistening agent: water (milk, egg, cream, syrup), liquid fat (oil)
  • drying agent: flour, starch, dry milk solids, cocoa powder
  • starch gelatinization
  • puff pastry margarine, high-melt margarine (high melting point)
  • fats release water and air when melted: leavening. higher melt: waxy mouthfeel
  • butter, low melt point
  • oil has no air or water, so no leavening
  • pie pastry: little water (so uses gluten, not starch, for structure)
  • cake: use starch/egg for structure
  • bread cannot rise more once crust formed.
  • caramelization: sugars breaking down.
  • maillard browning: proteins breaking down
  • staling, retrogradation, starch retrogradation, stale bread. After baking, starch molecules bond and solidify.
  • sensory property(ies), sensory perception, (chemical) sensory system(s), flavour, taste, aroma
  • basic taste, smell, chemical feeling factor
  • saliva
  • sourness (instant, sides of mouth) vs bitterness (delayed, lingers, back of throat)
  • astringency
  • sour: pickles, yoghurt, cultured buttermilk
  • bitter: coffee, dark beer, unsweetened chocolate
  • astringent: strong black tea, unripe persimmon, grapeskin
  • umami
  • supertaster
  • chemical feeling factor syns: pungency, chemical irritation, chemosensory irritation, chemesthesis, trigeminal response. (Aborbed by the skin)
  • eg: alcohol sting, carbon dioxide tingle, ginger pungency, cinnamon burn, mint/menthol cooling, capsaicin heat,
  • malic acid (apples), citric acid (lemons), acetic acid (vinegar), lactic acid (milk), folic acid (leaves), ascorbic acid (broccoli), tartaric acid (grapes), phytic acid (bran), potassium bitartrate (grape juice), formic acid (ants), butyric acid (puke), (more...)
  • folic acid (prevent Neural Tube Defects, etc)
  • coulis, Bavarian cream, chiffon pie
  • gelatin can reduce the release of flavour.
  • Major wheat growing countries: China, India, US, France, (Russia?) Australia, Canada, Germany, Pakistan, Turkey
  • Wheat growing per capita (top 10ish): Australia, Kazakhstan, Canada, France, Argentina, ... Hungary, Turkey, UK, Germany, Bulgaria, Russia, US, Iran, Morocco, Tunisia
  • Wheat germ: protein, fat, B vitamins, vitamin E, minerals. (no gluten)
  • bran: high fibre (~42% dietry fibre), protein, fat, B vitamins, minerals. (no gluten)
  • wild yeast = Saccharomyces exiguus (bb)
  • sourdough may get yeast added: commercial cake yeast 0.2% flour weight; or 0.6% instant yeast
  • starter: usually 50/50 (100%) but may be 50% water (stiff) to 125% (liquid)
  • Lalvain du Jour (French starter)
  • Lalvain Pain de Campagne
  • pre-toasting walnut stops it turning blue
  • benching, allowing the dough to rest before shaping
  • banneton(s)
  • batard: torpedo/football shaped loaf
  • bloom = gringe: the opening where the loaf has been slashed. (french: grin)
  • boule: round/ball-shaped loaf
  • couche: folded cloth "bed" for long breads
  • degas: punch down the bread to release gas
  • desem (Flemmish): mature dough starter from wild yeast (bb), a Flemish leaven with a strong rise and barely sour. Grown in cool surrounds. (nt)
  • dimpling (dimpling the dough)
  • enriched dough: one containing fat, eggs, dairy or sugar.
  • glazing: made from egg wash, melted fat, or a cornstarch mixture.
  • laminated dough, dough with high percent fat layered into it
  • madre bianca
  • seed culture, before it's mature/active
  • butter salt
  • pain brie (not cheese)
  • oils: olive oil, light sesame oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil (mm), cashew, (not recommended: corn, sunflower, safflower) nt
  • milks: cow, soy, coconut milk, yogurt, cream, butter
  • honey, molasses, apple juice, grape juice
  • miso instead of salt: 1 tblsp per 1 kg leaven loaf
  • Yukon berry (bush)
  • calcium in wheat is made available by natural leavens through hydrolisation of certain acids.
  • Grains Research and Development Corporation (GRDC) [3]
  • no-till farming
  • farina (brand: Cream of Wheat)
  • Durum semolina, semolina
  • meal, grit
  • cracked kernel, cracked wheat, rustic wheat flakes
  • wheat berry = whole kernel (lower GI)
  • enriched flour: iron and B vitamins (1,2,3,9): thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, folic acid. Amounts equal or more than whole wheat flour.
  • unbleached flour: green flour is naturally aged for weeks to months.
  • maturing agent: strengthen gluten, used on weak flour: potassium bromate (bromated flour), ascorbic acid
  • maturing agents that weaken gluten, used on strong flour: chlorine (weakens glutin, has starch allow more water, also bleaches)
  • bleaching agent, whitens carotenoids: benzoyl peroxide, chlorine gas
  • Can't always tell which bleaching agent used from label (US only?)
  • malt, malted flour, malt flour, commonly made from barley. Contains amylase as well as sugars, minerals, and other enzymes.
  • dough conditioner, dough improver:
  • Ideal pH for gluten development: 5–6
  • acids: cream of tartar, fruits or juice, cultured dairy products, vinegar
  • alkali: baking soda
  • vital wheat gluten: 75% gluten forming proteins
  • non wheat flour leavens: barley leaven, millet leaven, rye leaven, malt leaven (light crystal malt), fruit leaven (apple or grape juice), grain leaven (leftover cooked brown rice), miso enriched leaven, wheat starch leaven, hops leaven (ntbb p41)
  • Don't make leaven from soured beans (may contain toxins)
  • Injera made from millet batter (thick pancake can accompany bean stews + soups)
  • more mature leavens: sourer
  • warmer leavens: sour rapidly. warm rising leaven: dough beomces too sticky or liquid.
  • best leaven food is complex carbohydrate. Ideal: crushed 5 day old wheat sprouts (ntbb p43)
  • crushed in mortar or suribachi
  • leaven can be fed cooked brown rice or barley (1 cup rice, 3 cup water)
  • can use sugar to sweeten leaven, but not recommended
  • bread is low in lysine (essential amino acid). Maybe because the protein in wheat is low in lysine (hbw p82), or because lysine is locked up with simple sugars during carmelization (browning) of pastries/doughnuts/cookies [4]; or lysine quantity is difficult to estimate [5]
  • light rye or white rye (patent rye flour, endosperm heart)
  • medium rye (straight rye flour, whole endosperm)
  • dark rye (clear rye flour, left from light rye)
  • pumpernickel (whole rye flour, bran, germ, endosperm)
  • rye oil oxidizes faster -> shorter shelf life (3 months)
  • rye: high in pentosan gum(s).
  • white bread water absorption: <50% starch, ~33% proteins, <25% by gums. (=108.3%)
  • corn flour: corn germ high in oil (30-35%)
  • corn flour from endosperm only: degerminated and enriched
  • masa harina, traditional Mexican corn flour, soaked in limewater before grinding
  • soy flour: lysine, enzymes (if untoasted): oxidised carotenoids (whitens), amylase, flavour (when toasted), lower risk of heart disease, water absorption (doughnuts), milk/egg substitute
  • potato flour: high in gelatinized starch, which is good for amylase.
  • Baker's Delight, white bread: Wheat Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast, Vegetable Oil (Soya Bean), Emulsifier (481), Flour Treatment Agents (516, 300), Soy Flour, Enzyme (Amylase), Antioxidant (E307), Antifoam (900), Vitamin (Thiamine, Folic Acid)
  • gluten ball, make seitan
  • dreikornbrot
  • bulk fermentation, final proofing
  • chemical dough development
  • dough conditioner typically 0.2% to 0.5% weight of the flour
  • glutathione, protein fragment in milk which destroys gluten, unless denatured at 82 C (or high-heat dry milk solids, which are treated at 88C for 30 min)
  • glutathione found in active dry yeast, released if used "improperly". (but not found in compressed yeast or instant yeast)
  • glutathione also found in non-heat-treated wheat germ
  • Turbinado (sugar)
  • "artisan sugars": jaggery (gur), panela (Columbia), piloncillo (Mexico), panocha. .. muscovado = Barbados sugar, Demerara sugar, wasanbon toh,
  • molasses: blackstrap (low grade or inedible) to fancy molasses
  • treacle: black treacle (low grade)
  • Dextrose equivalent (DE): pure cornstarch DE of 0, pure dextrose DE of 100.
  • 40 litres of maple sap to produce 1 litre of maple syrup. Flavour developed from Maillard reaction(s).
  • fat, oil, certain emulsifiers coat gluten forming proteins, preventing long chains forming (shortening)
  • sugar tenderizes by drawing away water
  • high fructose syrups (invert syrup, honey, not maple syrup): best at sweetening, moisening and browning. Good at moisening because hygroscopic
  • simple syrup: equal sugar water (usually), and slice of lemon (often)
  • hydrometer or saccharometer (sugar meter): measure specific gravity, Baumé (Bé) Antoine Baumé,
  • Refractometer, measure Brix (faster easier pricier), Adolf Brix
  • invert sugar prevents ice crystals forming in forzen desserts. Also needs lower baking temps (15 C less)
  • invert can make foods dark, dense, gummy, too sweet. usually use less than 25%.
  • sweetness of sugars: fructose (most), sucrose, glucose, maltose, lactose (least)
  • sugars tenderize (delay formation of structure): interfere with gluten formation, protein coagulation, and starch gelatinization.
  • annatto, natural yellow colour added to butter
  • roux
  • oxidative rancidity
  • final melting point
  • cultured butter = ripened butter (always unsalted)
  • browned butter = beurre noisette
  • shortening
  • Winterized oil (ised), Salad oil
  • Lecithin, natural emulsifier of egg yolk
  • pâte brisée (pate brisee) French pie crust, Butter tart crust

[edit] oats

[edit] flour composition

flour composition (hbw p67):

  • starch (68-76%)
  • sugars (<0.5%), sourdough, amalyase or sugar needed to be added for yeast
  • protein (6-18%): 80% gluten-forming proteins in the endosperm, others in endosperm (white flour): e.g. amylase, protease, lipase.
  • Moisture: 11-14% (higher leads to fungus, mold, insects, flavour changes, enzyme activity)
  • other carbohydrates: gum (2-3%), specifically pentosans. Absorbs 10x weight in water.
  • lipids (1-1.5%): wheat oil and emulsifiers. Can oxidise and turn racid, leading to stale cardboard flavour, and limited shelf life. Needed for gluten development.
  • ash (inorganic, mineral salts) (<0.6% in white). Causes gray colour. Mostly in bran. For diet and yeast nutrition.
  • carotinoid pigments 1-4ppm. Give creamy colour. Higher in hard wheats.
  • soft wheat flour (weak flour, from soft wheat kernels), typically ground finer, and are poor for dusting benches.

[edit] temps

  • most fats melt: 30-55 C. Most microbes die around 60 C. Egg proteins coagulate starting 60-70 C (other ingredients affect temp of coagulation).
  • Starch granules start swelling at 40C, gelatization underway + contributes to structure: 60-75C, gel complete approaching: 95 C.
  • table sugar (sucrose), melts: 186°C (and caramelizes?)
  • ethanol boiling point: 78.4 °C
  • CO2 + alcohol released around 75 C, especially in yeast doughs
  • 150 C surface temp reached quickly once water evaporates
  • 70 - 80 C: most enzymes inactivated
  • Vitamin C "decomposes" 190 - 192 °C
  • Pectin breakdown: 90 C (?)
  • fondant (crystals melt above 38 C and then recrystalize bigger)
  • perception of saltiness decreases with temp
  • perception of sweetness increases with temp
  • aroma typically increases with temp
  • butter, too hard: 10 C, too soft: 27 C, best for working: 18-21 C.
  • 21 C to 27 C - ideal dough temp for yeasted fermentation, although varies. (hbw)
  • 82 C milk simmers and denatures gluten-destroying glutathione tripeptide.
  • dough must be 21 to 35 C for instant yeast to survive (bb)
  • dough above 32 C, undesirable flavours (bb)
  • below 21 C, flour will not hydrate evenly (bb)
  • fudge is "properly cooked" at 114 - 116 C (hbw)
  • 27-32 C, gelatin melts to liquid
  • 34 C butter (final melting point)
  • 32 - 38 C Baker's margarine
  • 47 - 57 C Puff pastry margarine
  • 38 - 46 C Roll-in margarine
  • 43 - 52 C All-purpose shortening (AP)
  • "When much store-bought bread is factory whipped wheat candy ..." - Darrell Greenwood
  • "... the tasteless, colourless, prepackaged substance ..." — John Downes
  • "wholemeal" as dyed white dough with some bran, artificially inflated with by the use of gluten flour.

revist: food cooling (p40 HBW); dough temp (p29 NTBB), controlling gluten dev (p99 HBW); cookie spread p103; dough relaxation (p110);


Peter Halasz has worked on a number of pages, taken a few photos, left many articles unwritten, noted some quotations and expressed some opinions.
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