Nilkantha

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Nilkantha
Elevation 6,596 metres (21,640 ft)
Location Uttarakhand, India
Range Garhwal Himalaya
Prominence 1,200 m (3,940 ft)[1][2]
Coordinates 30°43′12″N, 79°24′00″E
First ascent June 3, 1974 by Sonam Pulzor, Kanhiya Lal, Dilip Singh, Nima Dorje

Nilkantha (or Nilkanth, Nilkanta) is a major peak of the Garhwal division of the Himalaya, in the Uttarakhand region of the Indian state of Uttaranchal. Although substantially lower than the highest peaks of the region, it towers dramatically over the valley of the Alaknanda River and rises 3,474 metres (11,398 ft) above the Hindu holy town of Badrinath, only 9 km (6 mi) to the east.[2] Frank Smythe described the peak as "second only to Siniolchu in Himalayan beauty."[3]

The Satopanth Glacier lies on the northwest side of Nilkantha, below a 2,500 m (8,200 ft) face of the peak. The Panpatia Glacier lies to the southwest, and feeds the Khirao Ganga, a stream running under the south side of the peak. Further away, to the west of the peak, lies the well-known Gangotri Glacier and its associated peaks. Across the Alaknanda valley lie the Kamet and Nanda Devi groups.

With its steep ridges and faces, Nilkantha resisted at least nine climbing attempts, beginning with Frank Smythe in 1937.[4] The peak was first climbed on June 3, 1974 by Sonam Pulzor, Kanhiya Lal, Dilip Singh, and Nima Dorje of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. The expedition was led by S. P. Chamoli. After unsuccessfully attempting the west ridge, they reached the summit via the north face, making three camps above base camp.[5]

The second ascent of Nilkantha was in 1993; subsequent ascents are recorded in 2000 and 2001.[4] The fifth ascent was made on the 11th of June 2007 by 11 climbers from the Himalayan Club Calcutta expedition, via the West ridge, from the Panpatia glacier. The summiteers were Gautam Ghosh (climbing leader), Debraj Dutta, Subrata Chakraborty, Gautam Saha, G. Prasunna Kumar, Vijendra Singh, Hav. Dinesh Singh Rawat, Sherpas Mingma Norbu, Ang Nima, Rinzing and Mingma Thondup. The leader of the expedition was Air Vice Marshal (Retd.) Apurba Bhattacharyya.[citation needed]

[edit] References

  1. ^ Corrected SRTM data, available at Viewfinder Panoramas
  2. ^ a b Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost, 1:150,000 scale topographic map, prepared in 1992 by Ernst Huber for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, based on maps of the Survey of India.
  3. ^ American Alpine Journal, 1956, p. 77
  4. ^ a b Himalayan Index
  5. ^ American Alpine Journal, 1975, p. 208
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