Nevado Pisco

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Nevado Pisco
View from the summit, including Artesonraju
Elevation	5,752 m (18,871 ft)
Location	Peru
Range	Cordillera Blanca, Andes
Coordinates	9°1′6.3″S, 77°39′24.6″W
First ascent	July 12, 1951
Easiest route	glacier/snow

Nevado Pisco is a mountain in Peru, located in the Cordillera Blanca about 60 km north of Huaraz. Nevado Pisco was first climbed in July 12, 1951 by C. Kojan, G.Kojan, R.Leininger and M. Lenoir.

Previously, this mountain was popular for its easy climb. Due to global warming and the resulting retreat of glaciers worldwide, a large piece of the glacier broke away in 2004. As a result, this mountain is no longer the easy climb it once was and depending on the season Pisco has a large ice wall with a 50-60 meter climb up a 60 degree slope. It is now rated an AD-. It is predicted that this mountain will get more difficult as the glacier continues to recede.

There are a multitude of companies in Huaraz offering guided climbs of the mountain, which usually include all equipment, food, transport, guide, and possibly a porter. The normal route is from the road to the south, up to the col to the west, then to the summit. There are two camps on the mountain and one at its base, although climbers often only use one. The first is next to the road and river on the valley floor. The second is in or next to Refugio Perú (at 4,765 m). The third, called the 'moraine camp' lies just below the ice of the first glacier. Most parties travel from Huaraz and climb to the moraine camp in one day, then summit and return to Huaraz the next.

Climbing involves mostly walking on snow slopes up to 35 degrees, but there is one section of about 100m of steep ice. Views from the mountain are superb, encompassing many of the other well known mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, and Alpamayo.

The altitude makes the climb very difficult for anyone not well acclimatised or fit, and even those who are will be slowed down. Sleeping at the two high camps is also difficult.