Munter hitch
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
| Munter hitch | |
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| Names | Munter hitch, Italian hitch |
|---|---|
| Category | hitch |
| Related | Half hitch |
| Releasing | Non-jamming |
| Typical use | Belaying |
| Caveat | Wears out the rope |
The Munter hitch, also known as the Italian hitch, is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers and cavers as part of a life-lining or belay system. To climbers, this knot is also known as HMS, the abbreviation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning 'half mast hitch belay.' Therefore, carabiners used for this belaying technique are called HMS carabiners, however the technique can be used with any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope. The name 'Munter hitch' is due to a Swiss mountain guide, Werner Munter, who popularised its use in mountaineering.
The hitch is simply a set of wraps using a rope or cord around an object, generally a round object like a pipe, pole or more commonly, a carabiner. Its main use is as a friction device for controlling the rate of descent in belay systems.
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[edit] How it works
The Munter hitch creates friction by having the rope rub on itself and on the object it has been wrapped around. It should be noted that there is no static friction on any part of the rope as it is a continuously moving knot. One very useful aspect of the Munter is its reversibility; it can be pulled from either side of the rope and it still works just as effectively.
[edit] Setting up a belay system using the Munter hitch
A belay system incorporating the Munter Hitch is the same as any other belay system, which incorporates a belayer to tend the rope and an anchor, which secures the belay system and belayer to the deck.
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Although not the belay system of choice, there are several advantages to the Munter Hitch. It is the only belay system which provides acceptable resistance to arrest a fall when not in the brake position and requires no additional hardware other than a carabiner. It's also the most common belay system which locks with the brake hand in line with the load. This can be useful when the anchor, carabiner and munterhitch are behind the belayer whilst attention is paid to the loaded end of the rope.
However, it places more bends in a rope than other belay methods, and creates significantly more friction on the outer sheath although the knot rolls continually, avoiding the damaging nylon on nylon friction that can destroy a kernmantle rope. Another disadvantage is that it can introduce significant twists to the rope. For these reasons, it is commonly only used as a backup or in emergency situations rather than a primary descending or belay mechanism. It is a versatile knot to know and can be used for full rope length vertical descents without the need for gloves.
[edit] Military Usage
The Munter Hitch is taught on Australian Military Roping courses as a simple and effective method for descending steep or overhanging terrain with combat equipment and can also be used for lowering heavy stores or casualties, the only equipment required being a harness or webbing seat, a locking carabiner, and a rope.
[edit] Arboreal Usage
For the recreational tree climber or working arborist, the Munter is useful to know as a reliable lowering knot for moderate loads. This hitch performs well on both 16 strand arborist climbing lines and the 11mm double braid lines like Blaze and Velocity.
[edit] Safe vs. Dangerous
It is a matter of safety to ensure that you tie the Munter Hitch with the correct orientation. This is important if you are left-handed, or orientation-blind. Using the wrong orientation can release the lock while letting the rope out.
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