Mount Lyell (California)

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Mount Lyell

Elevation	13,114 feet (3,997 m)
Location	California, USA
Range	Sierra Nevada
Coordinates	37°44′21.8″N 119°16′17.5″W / 37.739389, -119.271528Coordinates: 37°44′21.8″N 119°16′17.5″W / 37.739389, -119.271528
Topo map	USGS Mount Lyell
First ascent	1863 by A.T. Tileston
Easiest route	rock climb
Listing	SPS Emblem peak

This article is about the mountain in California, For other geographic features with this name, see Mount Lyell

Mount Lyell is the highest point in Yosemite National Park, at 13,114 feet (3,997 m) above sea level. It is located at the southeast end of the Cathedral Range, 1.2 miles (1.9 km) northwest of Rodgers Peak. It is named after Charles Lyell, a well-known 19th century geologist. The peak also has the largest glaciers still remaining in Yosemite, Lyell Glacier and nearby Maclure Glacier on Mount Maclure.

Mount Lyell divides the Tuolumne River watershed to the north, the Merced to the west, and the Rush Creek drainage in the Mono Lake Basin to the southeast.

The most common approach to Mount Lyell is from Tuolumne Meadows on a highly traveled section of the John Muir Trail. The round trip is approximately 25 miles (40 km) and involves 4,500 feet (1,400 m) of elevation gain when starting from the Toulumne Wilderness Office. The hike is easy from Tuolumne Meadows following the Toulumne River to the head of the Lyell Canyon and becomes moderate as you approach Donahue Pass. Before reaching Donahue Pass you must leave the trail and head south towards Mount Lyell.

Most summit ascents are done either over or around the Lyell Glacier. Seasonal and year to year variations on the glacier make it necessary to assess current conditions before choosing a route to the summit. The NW Ridge, from the saddle between Mt. Lyell and nearby Mt. Maclure, offers class 2-3 climbing with high snow levels on the glacier. Low snow levels increases the grade to class 3-4 on the exposed granite ledges, in which cases it may be easier to ascend the glacier more directly to the summit. The grade of the East Arete likewise increases with low snow conditions, going from class 3 to class 4 (the looseness of the rock underlying the glacier on the East Arete makes it somewhat dangerous in low snow condtions). Other routes exist on the south and west sides, but of greater difficulty and longer approaches.