User:Mehmet Karatay/Mountaineering on Mount Kenya
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[edit] Walking Routes up Mount Kenya
There are eight walking routes up to the main peaks. Starting clockwise from the north these are the: Meru, Chogoria, Kamweti, Naro Moru, Burguret, Sirimon and Timau Routes.[1] Of these Chogoria, Naro Moru and Sirimon and used most frequently and therefore have staffed gates. The other routes require special permission from the Kenya Wildlife Service to use.[2]
[edit] Meru Route
This route leads from Katheri, south of Meru, to Lake Rutundu following the Kathita Munyi river. It does not lead to the peaks, but up onto the alpine moorland on the slopes of the mountain.[1]
[edit] Chogoria Route
This route leads from Chogoria town up to the peaks circuit. The 32 km (20 miles) from the forest gate to the park gate are often done by vehicle, but it is also possible to walk. There is much wildlife in the forest, with safari ant columns crossing the track, monkeys in the trees, and the potential for seeing elephant, buffalo and leopard. The road is not in good condition, and requires careful driving and walking. Near the park gate the bamboo zone starts, with grasses growing to 12 m high (40 ft).
Once in the park the track passes through rosewood forests, with lichens hanging from the branches. At one point the path splits, with the smaller track leading to a path up the nearby Mugi Hill and across to Lake Ellis.
Near the trackhead a small bridge crosses the Nithi stream. Following the stream downriver a few hundred metres (yards) leads to The Gates Waterfall. The path heads up a ridge above the Gorges Valley, with views to the peaks, Lake Michaelson, The Temple, and across the valley to Delamere and Macmillan Peaks. Hall Tarns are situated right on the path and above The Temple, which is a 300 m (1,000 ft) cliff above Lake Michaelson.[3]
As the path carries on it crosses the flat head of the Nithi River and then the slope steepens. The path splits, heading west to Simba Col, and south west to Square Tarn. These are both on the Peak Circuit Route.
[edit] Kamweti Route
This route follows the Nyamindi West River.[1] The route is restricted, if it still exists. It is not mentioned in the official guidebook published by the Kenya Wildlife Service, so it may no longer be passable.[2]
[edit] Naro Moru Route
This route is taken by many of the trekkers who try to reach Point Lenana. It can be ascended in only 3 days and has bunkhouses at each camp so a tent is not necessary. The terrain is usually good, although one section is called the Vertical Bog.
The track starts in Naro Moru town and heads past the Park Headquarters up the ridge between the Northern and Southern Naro Moru Rivers. At the roadhead is the Meteorological Station, to which it is possible to drive in the dry season. The route drops down into the Northern Naro Moru Valley to Mackinder's Camp on the Peak Circuit Path.
[edit] Burguret Route
This route has restricted access.[2] It starts in Gathiuru, and mainly follows the North Burguret River, then continues up to Hut Tarn on the Peak Circuit Path.
[edit] Sirimon Route
This route starts 15 km (9 miles) east around the Mount Kenya Ring Road from Nanyuki. The gate is 10 km (6 miles) further along the track, which can be walked or driven by two-wheel drives.[3]
The track climbs up through the forest. On the north side of the mountain there is no bamboo zone, so the forest gradually turns into moorland covered with giant heather. The track ends at Old Moses Hut and becomes a path. This continues up the hill before splitting into two routes. To the left, the least used path goes around the side of the Barrow, to Liki North Hut. The vegetation becomes more sparse, with giant lobelia and groundsels dotted around. The path climbs over a ridge, before rejoining the main path ascending the Mackinder Valley. Shipton's Cave can be found in the rock wall to the left of the steep path just before reaching Shipton's Camp.
From Shipton's Camp, it is possible to ascend the ridge directly in front of the camp to the site of Kami Hut, which no longer exists, or follow the river up to Lower Simba Tarn and eventually to Simba Col. These are both on the Peak Circuit Path.
[edit] Timau Route
This is a restricted route.[2] It starts very close to the Sirimon Route, at Timau Village, and skirts around the edge of the forest for a considerable distance. It used to lead to the highest point on the mountain to which is was possible to drive, but has not been used for many years. From the trackhead it is possible to reach Halls Tarns in a few hours, then follow the Chogoria Route to the Peak Circuit Path
[edit] Peak Circuit Path
This is a path around the main peaks, with a distance of about 10 km (6 miles) a height gain and loss of over 2000 m (6,600 ft). It can be walked in one day, but more commonly takes two or three. It can also be used to join different ascent and descent routes. The route does not require technical climbing.[4]
[edit] Climbing Routes
Most of the peaks on Mount Kenya have been summited. The majority of these involve rock climbing as the easiest route. The grades given are East African climbing grades.
Peak | Altitude | Route Name | Grade | Climbing Season* | First Ascent |
Batian | 5,199 m (17,058 ft) | North Face Standard Route | IV+ | Summer | A.H. Firmin and P. Hicks, 31 July 1944[5] |
South-West Ridge Route | IV | Winter | A.H. Firmin and J.W. Howard, 8 January 1946[6] | ||
Nelion | 5,188 m (17,022 ft) | Normal Route | IV- | Summer/Winter | E.E. Shipton and P.W. Harris 6 January 1929[7] |
Batian/Nelion | Ice Window Route | V- | Summer | P. Snyder, Y. Laulan and B. LeDain 20 August 1974[8] | |
Batian/Nelion | Diamond Couloir | VI | Summer | P. Snyder and T. Mathenge 4-5 October 1973[8] | |
Pt Pigott | 4957 m (16,266 ft) | South Ridge | III+ | Summer/Winter | W.M. and R.J.H. Chambers February 1959[3] |
Thomson's Flake | Thomson's Flake | VI | L. Hernacarek, W. Welsch and B. Cliff September 1962[3] | ||
Pt Dutton | 4885 m (16,027 ft) | North-East Face and Ridge | IV | S. Barusso and R.D. Metcalf 4 August 1966[3] | |
Pt John | 4883 m (16,016 ft) | South-East Gully | III | Summer | E.E. Shipton and R.E.G. Russel 18 December 1929[3] |
Pt Melhuish | 4880 m (16,010 ft) | South-East Face | IV+ | R.M.Kamke and W.M. Boyes December 1960[3] | |
Pt Peter | 4757 m (15,607 ft) | North-East Gully and Ridge | III | E.E. Shipton and H.W. Tilman July 1960[3] | |
Window Ridge | VI, A1 | F.A. Wedgewood and H.G. Nicol 8 August 1963[3] | |||
Midget Peak | 4700 m (15,420 ft) | South Gully | IV | E.E. Shipton and H.W. Tilman August 1930[4] |
* Climbing Season refers to northern hemisphere summers and winters.
[edit] Huts on Mount Kenya
Caretakers are present at most huts,[2] but not all. The huts range from very basic (Liki North) with little more than a roof, to luxurious with log fires and running water (Meru Mt Kenya Lodge). Most huts have no heat or light, but are spacious with dormitories and communal areas. They also offer separate accommodation for porters and guides. The communal areas of the huts can be used by campers wishing to retreat from the weather or to store food away from the hyaena and hyraxes.
[edit] Around the Peak Circuit Path
- Austrian Hut/Top Hut (4790 m - 15,715 ft)
- Austrian Hut is the highest hut on Mount Kenya, with the exception of Howell Hut on Nelion. It is a good base for the ascent of Lenana, or for exploring the surrounding area. Peaks that can be ascended with Austrian Hut as a base camp include Point Thompson, Point Melhuish and Point John. It is also the starting point for the Normal Route up Nelion, as well as other routes up to the summits.
The ridge from Austrian Hut has many lava formations. There is little flora here, as the ridge is covered in scree which freezes every night and bakes every day, but there are still small flowers. There are no mammals or birds at this altitude.
- Two Tarn Hut (4490 m - 14,731 ft)
- Kami Hut (site of) (4439 m - 14,564 ft)
[edit] Huts on Chogoria Route
- Meru Mt Kenya Lodge (3017 m - 9,898 ft)
- This is a privately owned lodge on the edge of the national park. Park fees have to be paid. The lodge is about 500 m from the park gate, and consists of several log cabins, each with a bedroom, kitchen, bathroom and living area with log fireplace. There is hot running water in the cabins, which sleep 3-4 people. The campsite is located at the park gate, and has running water.
- Urumandi Hut (site of) (3063 m - 10,050 ft)
- This hut was built in 1923 and is no longer used.[3]
- Minto's Hut (porters only) (4290 m- 14,075 ft)
- Minto's Hut sleeps 8 porters, and is situated near Hall Tarns. There is a campsite nearby. Water is taken directly from the tarns. The tarns have no outflow and so the stagnate water needs to be filtered or boiled before use.
[edit] Huts on Naro Moru Route
- The Warden's Cottage (2400 m - 7,900 ft)
- This was home to the park's senior wardens until 1998.[2] There are two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen and a living area with veranda and log fire. There is running hot water. The cottage is inside the national park, so park fees must be paid.
- Meteorological Station (3050 m - 10,000 ft)
- The Met Station is administered by Naro Moru Lodge.[2] There are several bunkhouses here as well as a campsite.
- Mackinder's Camp (4200 m -13,778 ft)
- Mackinder's Camp is also administered by Naro Moru Lodge.[2] There is a large bunkhouse and plenty of space for camping.
[edit] Huts on Sirimon Route
- Sirimon Bandas (2650 m - 8,690 ft)
- Sirimon Bandas are located at Sirimon Gate, just inside Mt Kenya National Park. The bandas each have two bedrooms, a kitchen, a dining room, a bathroom and a veranda. There is hot running water. The surrounding area contains much wildlife, including hyaena, zebra, many antelope, baboons and lots of species of birds. Park fees have to be paid, although the bandas are situated just outside the gates.
There is a campsite next to the bandas, with running water and long drops.
- Old Moses Camp (3400 m - 11,150 ft)
- Old Moses Camp is administered by Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge.[9] It has dormitories and a large campsite, as well as accommodation for guides and porters.
- Liki North Hut (3993 m - 13,095 ft)
- Liki North Hut is little more than a shed to keep the weather off. There is space to camp and a river nearby for water. The hut can sleep 8 people. It is on the lesser used path between Old Moses and Shipton's Camps and can by used as a base for climbing Terere and Sendeyo or to stop off on the way to Shipton's Camp.
- Shipton's Camp (4236 m - 13,894 ft)
- Shipton's Camp is administered by Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge.[9] It is home to many rock hyrax, as well as striped mice, many types of sunbirds and Alpine Chats. Mountain Buzzards fly overhead. The vegetation is dominated by giant groundsel, but there are many flowers and lobelia as well. On the skyline is a view of Points Peter and Dutton, with Batian overshadowing them. Also in view are Thompson's Flake and Point Thompson, with Point Lenana on the other side of the Gregory Glacier. In front of the main peaks is the Krapf Rognon, with the Krapf Glacier behind.
[edit] Huts on Nelion
- Howell Hut (5188 m - 17,023 ft)
- This hut, on top of Nelion, was built by Ian Howell in February 1970. The corrugated iron for the hut was dropped onto the Lewis Glacier by helicopter and Howell carried it to the summit in thirteen solo ascents and built the hut.[3]
[edit] Other huts around the mountain
- Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge
- [9]The lodge is situated north of Naro Moru and offers rooms, tented accommodation and a campsite. It administers the Old Moses and Shipton's Camps on the Sirimon Route.
- Naro Moru River Lodge
- This lodge is situated near Naro Moru, and offers facilities from bird watching to equipment hire and guided climbs of the mountain. It also administers the bunkhouses at the Met Station and Mackinder's Camp on the Naro Moru Route.
- The Serena Mountain Lodge
- [10] This luxury hotel is found on the western slopes of the mountain, at around 2,200 m (6,600 ft). It has its own waterhole and offers guided walks, trout fishing and luxury climbs up the mountain, as well as conference facilities.
- Naro Moru Youth Hostel
- The youth hostel is situated between Naro Moru and Naro Moru Gate, and is a renovated farmhouse. It has dormitories and a campsite, with hot water, a kitchen and equipment hire.
- Castle Forest Lodge
- This lodge was built by the British in the late 1920s as a retreat for royalty.[2] It is on the southern slopes of the mountain in the forest at about 2,100 m (6,900 ft).
- Rutundu Log Cabins
- This luxury lodge is on the northern slopes of the mountain at about 3,100 m (10,200 ft).
- Messner training for Everest
- Notable first ascents
[edit] References
- ^ a b c Andrew Wielochowski and Mark Savage. Mt Kenya 1:50000 Map and Guide [map], 1 edition, 1:50000 with 1:25000 inset. Cartography by West Col Productions. (1991) ISBN 0-906227-39-9.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i Kenya Wildlife Service, Mount Kenya Official Guidebook, Kenya Wildlife Service, 2006.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Allan, Iain (1981). The Mountain Club of Kenya Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro. Nairobi: Mountain Club of Kenya. ISBN 978-9966985606.
- ^ a b Burns, Cameron (1998). Kilimanjaro & Mount Kenya; A Climbing and Trekking Guide. Leicester: Cordee. ISBN 1-871890-98-5.
- ^ Alpine Journal, 1945
- ^ Mountain Club of Kenya Bulletin 3, 1947
- ^ Alpine Journal Vol. 42
- ^ a b Mountain Club of Kenya Bulletin 72, 1974
- ^ a b c Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge. Retrieved on 2007-05-26.
- ^ Serena Mountain Lodge. Retrieved on 2007-05-26.
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