Last

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A last is the form used in shoemaking to shape a shoe in the rough form of a human foot. It is used by cordwainers or shoemakers in the manufacture or repair of shoes. Lasts come in pairs and the material used to make them can vary from wood (which expands and contracts based on humidity, generally not a desired characteristic) to high-density polyethylene. This shape is designed to fit the foot, the toe style and is used in production to add the sole and heel after stretching the leather or fabric around the top.

[edit] Production

Almost all footwear is made on lasts, a form that reflects the shape and shoe style. There are many types of lasts which reflect the type of footwear and feet they are designed for. Traditionally lasts are made from wood, which expands and contracts when wet materials are laid on it during shoe manufacture. This can be of concern as the steps in shoemaking involve the use of water. Modern materials, which do not change shape when wet, can allow a more accurate fit. The material used to make the last must be firm enough to hold small tacks (called lasting tacks) and hold parts of the shoe in place during forming and manufacture, but soft enough to be removed before the sole is added.

Today, high fashion shoe designers who utilize centuries old methods of last making, shoe design and construction still utilize wood shoe lasts to form their expensive,custom footwear.

Different types of footwear require lasts with different characteristics. Open-toe sandal style will use a last that allows the toes to spread out, while a boot last is designed to hug the instep for a closer fit. In mass manufacturing, the design of lasts is often completed on a computer system like Lectra and includes the top pattern.

[edit] Custom lasts

Main article: podiatry

Podiatrists use custom molded and other specialty lasts to produce shoes to meet the needs of their patients. These lasts are made from various modern materials that can withstand the constant tacking pinning and wet environment. Many custom footwear makers make lasts for their customers, shaped to maintain a form best suited to the customer's feet.