Laila Peak (Hushe Valley)
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Laila Peak | |
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Laila Peak from Gondogoro Glacier |
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Elevation | 6,096 metres (20,000 feet) |
Location | Pakistan |
Range | Karakoram, Gondogoro Glacier |
Coordinates | [1] |
First ascent | Not Recorded |
Laila Peak in Hushe valley near Gondogoro glacier is in Karakoram range and is 6,096m high. Its distinctive spear-like shape makes it one of the most beautiful mountains of the world. Its North West face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters.
It has been climbed at least once but no record of its ascents has been maintained. According to the local people in Hushe, the Laila peak has been climbed only twice, a total of only seven people have summited[2].
The height of the Laila peak in Hushe valley has been controversial. Some believe it to be 6200m whereas some mention it as 6614m. In a Japanese mountaineering map by Tsuneo Miyamori (published in 2003), the height of Laila Peak is mentioned as 6096 meters.[3]
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[edit] First Skiers on Laila Peak
In the summer of 2005, the first ever ski attempts on the Laila Peak were made by Fredrik Ericsson and Jörgen Aamot from Scandinavian countries. Although they could not reach the summit, they skied down the North-West face of the peak. They described it as "one of the most amazing mountains they have ever seen, like a needle it points straight up in the sky".
Frederik and Jörgen reached the base camp of Laila Peak (4150m) on June 18, 2005, and they were at Camp1 (5000m) on June 22, 2005. They made their first attempt to summit on Friday, June 24, 2005. They started climbing from 5000m at 2:30am and after seven hours of climbing when they were only 100m from the summit, they realized that it was too icy to continue, and started skiing down on the North-West face of the Laila Peak towards Gondogoro glacier. [4]