Klevener de Heiligenstein

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Location of the village of Heiligenstein (red dot) in the arrondissement of Sélestat-Erstein in Bas-Rhin département of Alsace.

Klevener de Heiligenstein is a designation used on Alsace wine made from pink-skinned Savagnin grapes (Savagnin rose), a variety in the Traminer family, but which is less aromatic than Gewürztraminer, which is widely plated in Alsace. Since most Alsace wine is varietally labeled, it is a common misunderstanding to believe "Klevener de Heiligenstein" to be a local variety. The designation may be allowed for existing vineyards in the villages Bourgheim, Gertwiller, Goxwiller, Heiligenstein and Obernai. However, the wine type and the corresponding variety is planned to be phased out from Alsace. Under current appellation rules^[1], the designation may be used until 2021 for existing vineyards, and no replanting of Savagnin rose is allowed.

[edit] History

The Savagnin vine was introduced to the Alsace region in 1740 by Erhard Wantz, mayor of the village of Heiligenstein. Ampelographers believe that the cuttings that Wantz brought originated from vineyards planted in the Italian Alps near Chiavenna in Lombardy.^[2] In 1971,^[3] the Klevener de Heiligenstein region was granted Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) status. As a village appellation, Klevener de Heiligenstein is unique from other French wine AOCs in that the exact boundaries of vineyards are strictly defined in the regulations and that the Savagnin Rose grape is confined exclusively to Heiligenstein and few isolated areas of surrounding villages.^[4]

[edit] Relationship to Gewürztraminer

Gewürztraminer grapes. Savagnin Rose grapes are almost indistinguishable except for the translucent skin quality that the appear just prior to veraison.

The vines of the Savagnin Rose variety planted in Alsace bear striking similarities, morphologically, to Gewürztraminer vines and are almost indistinguishable on inspection. Outside of DNA testing and analysis of the wine that both grapes produce, the only noticeable difference is that just prior to veraison the grapes of Savagnin Rose turn almost translucent while the skins of Gewürztraminer grapes are more opaque. While Gewürztraminer was present in Alsace since the Middle Ages, the 18th century introduction of Savagnin Rose did cause some confusion among vineyards as to which variety they had planted. The most obvious way to distinguish the two was to compare the type of wines that each produces with Gewürztraminer wine being much more aromatic. Until the 1970s, winemakers would label wines of better quality "Gewürztraminer" and wines of lesser quality "Traminer" or "Klevener de Heiligenstein", regardless of the final composition of Gewürztraminer, Savagnin Rose and/or Traminer in the wine. In 1973, the names Traminer and Savagnin Rose was discontinued from use on Alsatian wine labels. Due to the significant plantings of Savagnin Rose in Heiligenstein and the villages around it, the wine style of "Klevener de Heiligenstein" was granted a grace period for use of that name.^[5]

[edit] Wine style

Klevener de Heiligenstein does have some similarities to wines made from its cousin grape, Gewürztraminer. Both can produce dry wines with a slight spicy flavor that has the potential to age well, especially in favorable vintages. It is less aromatic than Gewürztraminer with higher acidity and lower alcohol levels. Some styles can show a slight buttery flavor.^[6] Outside of exceptional vintages, Klevener de Heiligenstein typically has delicate fruit flavors that start to fade after 2-4 years. The wine is not to be confused with other wine made from grape varieties named Klevner, such as Pinot Blanc which is frequently called Klevner in Alsace.^[4]

[edit] Reference