House rabbit
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A house rabbit is a domestic rabbit kept as a pet for companionship, who lives inside the home with his owners. He has an indoor pen and a rabbit-safe place to run and exercise, such as a living or family room. Rabbits are easily trained to use a litter box and can learn to come when called. Their diets typically consist of unlimited timothy hay, a small helping of pellets, and some fresh vegetables and fruits. House rabbits are very quiet pets. They are not best suited for families with unsupervised small children, due to the likelihood of frightening or harming these timid creatures by loud sounds or mishandling.
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[edit] Socialization
Rabbits are very social animals. House rabbits become part of the family, just as cats, dogs, and birds do, and often get along well with these other animals. It is not uncommon to see a house rabbit grooming the cat or dog or another rabbit. Socialization takes time, especially between two rabbits, where the process is called bonding. Until two rabbits are bonded, they tend to be territorial and can be a danger to each other.
A rabbit needs at least two hours of out-of-cage time in a safe environment (see house proofing below). The strong muscles in his back legs will weaken if he is not given opportunities to run, jump, and play. When a rabbit plays, he will often do a binky, which is a happy dance where he will jump into the air, turn around, and take off running. When calm and being petted on the head, he will gently grind his teeth with contentment. Rabbits enjoy gentle, quiet attention from their human counterparts, although most do not like to be cuddled, which takes them too far from their natural comfort zone as prey animals. A house rabbit typically learns his name and comes when called. Other tricks include begging and jumping hurdles.
House rabbit organizations warn that a rabbit does not make a good pet for small children because they do not know how to stay quiet, calm, and gentle around the rabbit. As prey animals, rabbits are alert, timid creatures that startle easily. They have fragile bones, especially in their backs, that require support on the belly and bottom when picked up. Children 10 years old and older usually have the maturity required to care for a rabbit.
It is recommended that dogs and cats generally not be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog or cat attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Many owners have found, however, that after careful introduction their dog or cat does get along well with their rabbit.[1][2]
[edit] Housing
Rabbits need an enclosure that is at least 4 times the length of the rabbit. Typical enclosures are x-pens, multiple-level condos, large dog cages, a room, and even a whole house.
A puppy training folding fence 26 or more inches tall serves as a simple pen, called an exercise pen or x-pen. It provides more free space and is easier to clean than some traditional cages. Multiple x-pens can be joined to enlarge the enclosed area. An x-pen’s portability is useful for travel with rabbits and for introduction and bonding.
A customizable pen is a multiple-level condo. The rabbit condo can be made by using cable ties and storage cubes available at home supply stores (sample building instructions). Corrugated plastic and carpet remnants are commonly used as flooring. A multiple-level condo provides the rabbit plenty of jumping options and variety. The owner chooses the dimensions and layout.
Another type of pen is a large dog cage. House rabbit organizations caution against using a grid floor, as this will cause sore hocks (sores on the bottom of the rabbit’s back feet). Carpet or linoleum can be added to a cage that has a grid floor to protect the rabbit’s feet, or sometimes the grid can be removed.
A rabbit-proofed room outfitted with a litter box, toys, and food can also serve as an enclosure. Rooms shared with humans, such as a bedroom or a kitchen, are typical. Where it is practical to rabbit-proof an entire house, a house rabbit can freely roam the house as cats and dogs do. Depending on the rabbit, this could require additional litter boxes, possibly one per room or per floor.
Within its enclosure, a house rabbit is provided a small shelter to hide and rest in. Cardboard boxes work well both as shelters and chew toys so long as they do not provide sufficient elevation that the rabbit could jump out of a pen.
[edit] Litter training
A house rabbit is easily trained to use a litter box, especially if spayed or neutered. When placed in a new area, it is common for a rabbit to mark the area with his droppings. After he gets acquainted to the area, he naturally starts favoring a certain location. A litter box filled with about one inch of non-toxic litter is placed there. Cat litter boxes are commonly used; additionally, pet stores sell small animal litter boxes marketed toward small rabbits and ferrets.
Most pet stores carry safe litter that is easy to handle, clean, and absorbent. Sawdust pellets (wood stove fuel pellets), Carefresh, and Yesterday’s News are popular. Aspen, hay, straw, and folded towels can also be used. Litter made from pine or cedar is not used because inhaling the aromatic oils in them may cause liver damage to the rabbit.
Placing hay close to the litter box can speed up the training, since rabbits like to defecate and eat at the same time. It can also be helpful during training to limit the space available to the rabbit. Starting at adolescence, rabbits that are not spayed or neutered may begin displaying territorial marking, which can frustrate efforts to litter train.[3]
[edit] Feeding
House rabbits of all ages are provided an unlimited amount of timothy hay—roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa. Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool. This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does.
House rabbits are typically given about 2 cups chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds of body weight and up to 2 tablespoons of fruit or carrots per 6 pounds body weight daily. House rabbit owners commonly provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Advertised treats in the pet stores are occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically have very high sugar and starch content.
Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are romaine lettuce, escarole, turnips, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radishes and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables are introduced slowly since rabbits have delicate digestive systems. Cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage are avoided because they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Starchy vegetables such as potatos and corn are also avoided.
Unlike commercial rabbits, pellets account for only a small portion of a domestic rabbit’s diet. Pellet amounts are determined by the weight of the rabbit and are listed on the back of the manufacturer’s packaging. Adult house rabbits generally eat pellets made from timothy grass. Rabbits less than 6 months old eat pellets made of alfalfa, which have more calories. Unlike pellets for rodents, rabbit pellets do not contain nuts, which contain more fat than rabbits can easily metabolize and can cause health problems such as fatty liver. If fresh grass or hay is not available, a high quality pellet is sometimes used as a fallback instead of hay as the staple food.
House rabbits are provided an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle. Rabbits on a consistent dietary regiment of fresh vegetables will drink less water, sourcing it instead through their greens.
[edit] House proofing
A house rabbit needs at least two hours daily out of his cage to run and explore. He is provided an area where he is free to roam in which hazards (to house or bunny) have been mitigated. For example, to prevent electrocution, an owner will hide electrical cords cover them with flexible clear tubing (slit lengthwise), such as that purchased in the plumbing section of a home store. Also of concern is rabbits' tendency to chew some types of woodwork and carpet edges. This problem is mitigated by providing something in the room that will attract the rabbit to chew instead, such as an old phone book, large pieces of paper, or a toilet paper roll.
Despite the hazards, a house does provide an inherent shelter. House rabbit owners do not leave their rabbits outside unattended, since predators may attack, or there may be pesticides that can harm the rabbit.
[edit] Toys
House rabbits need to play to keep their minds active and their bodies trim. Rotating through a collection of toys provides variety and keeps their interest. Toys must be non-toxic and include cardboard boxes with holes cut in them, toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay, PVC pipe to tunnel through, balls with holes for food to tumble out, plastic rattles for the rabbit to toss, straw mats, or untreated wicker baskets to chew. Some rabbits enjoy cloths that are dangled into their cage (though supervision with these materials is mandatory should the rabbit ingest any of it). All house rabbits need wood toys that they can chew on to wear down their teeth, which will continue to grow to malocclusion if they have nothing to chew. Toys can be purchased at a pet store, improvised from paper refuse, or they can be handmade.
[edit] Health
Emergency health concerns such as a rabbit not eating, not eliminating, or head tilt require immediate veterinary attention. A veterinarian can also assist with chronic conditions such as malocclusion.[4] In most regions, house rabbits do not require vaccination; however, in the UK they do to protect against myxomatosis and hemorrhagic viral diseases.[5][6] Some owners visit a vet for advice on topics such as diet, although others rely on their own experience or the experience of others, such as knowledgeable people in a house rabbit organization. In any case, house rabbit organizations recommend finding a vet before an emergency occurs as only some vets are experienced in treating rabbits. The House Rabbit Society maintains a list of veterinarians who practice veterinary medicine on rabbits.
House rabbit organizations recommend that house rabbits be spayed or neutered. The advantages include avoiding high incidences of ovarian cancer in females, territorial marking in males, aggression toward other rabbits, and overpopulation.[7] Adult rabbits, unlike cats and dogs, don't go into heat, but rather are constantly ready for breeding—thus the adage "breed like rabbits."
Unlike cats, rabbits cannot be declawed. Lacking pads on the bottoms of their feet, rabbits require their claws for balance, and removing a rabbit’s claws will render it unable to stand, permanently crippling the animal. Rabbits with access to rough surfaces will naturally keep their claws worn down to a certain extent when running, but pet rabbits will normally require their claws to be clipped regularly. This is especially true of house rabbits that only run on soft surfaces such as carpets. It is very important that claws are clipped by someone with experience, such as a trained veterinary practitioner, as clipping the claws at the quick or cuticle can cause pain and bleeding. As a precaution, styptic powder or gel can be kept at the ready to speed clotting, should bleeding occur.[8]
Rabbits shed on average of once every three months. During this shedding time, it is beneficial to brush the rabbit with a gentle rubber curry or pin brush.
[edit] Emergency Care
A rabbit's health can deterioate extremely quickly. It is important to seek urgent veterinary attention if a rabbit has any of the following symptoms: dramatic or sudden loss of appetite, severe depression[9], breathing problems[10], sudden onset of head tilt, signs of maggot infestation [11], not passing stools. You should also take your rabbit to the vets urgently if it has consumed something poisonous, been involved in an accident, fallen from a height or been exposed to smoke.
[edit] Organizations
The following organizations focus on educating and assisting owners of house rabbits:
- House Rabbit Society
- Pittsburgh House Rabbit Club
- The House Rabbit Connection Inc. of Massachusetts & Connecticut
[edit] References
- ^ Shapiro, Amy. Cats and Rabbits. House Rabbit Society. Retrieved on 2008-01-04.
- ^ Shapiro, Amy. When Fido Met Thumper (Dogs and Rabbits). House Rabbit Society. Retrieved on 2008-01-04.
- ^ Litter Training. House Rabbit Society. Retrieved on 2008-01-10.
- ^ When Teeth Turn to Tusks. House Rabbit Society. Retrieved on 2007-06-12.
- ^ VHD: what every UK rabbit owner needs to know. Rabbit Welfare Association (March 2007). Retrieved on 2007-06-12.
- ^ Pavia, Rabbits for Dummies, p. 182.
- ^ Spaying and Neutering. House Rabbit Society. Retrieved on 2007-10-29.
- ^ Cushman, Abi. Clipping Your Rabbit's Nails. My House Rabbit. Retrieved on 2007-06-18.
- ^ Harcourt-Brown F (2002). "Anorexia in rabbits 2". In Pract 24 (8): 450-67..
- ^ Paul-Murphy J (2007). "Critical care of the rabbit.". Vet Clin North Am Exot Anim Pract. 10 (2): 437-61..
- ^ Cousquer G , 28: (2006). "Veterinary care of rabbits with myiasis". In Pract. 1028 (6): 342 - 349..
- Audrey Pavia (2003). Rabbits for Dummies. New York: Wiley. ISBN 0-7645-0861-X.
- House Rabbit Society
[edit] See also
[edit] External links
- House Rabbit Society
- "Did you know?" poster: Summary of key house rabbit facts and recommendations.
- House Rabbit Documentary
- Binky Bunny: Tips for litter training, housing, diet, house proofing, etc.
- My House Rabbit: Providing useful information on rabbit care and behavior.
- Vet Help Direct: For use in the EU, helps rabbit owners decide whether to see a vet.
