Horsepens 40
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Horsepens 40 is a Northern Alabama camping and bouldering site located on Chandler Mountain, outside Steele, Alabama (map). It has been inhabited for the past 15,000 years, 8,000 of which have been nearly continuous [1]. The park is recognized by the Alabama State Legislature in House/Senate Joint Resolution 177 (HJR177) as "The Home of the South's Bluegrass Music" [1] The park got its name from the original deed, which when allocating the area of the plot, stated "the home 40, the farming 40, and the horse pens 40, each tract containing 40 acres of land".
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[edit] Ownership status
Horsepens 40, while recognized and protected by the State of Alabama, is a private property owned by the Schultz Family, and as such is subject to their rules for access and stay.
[edit] Wildlife and history
According to the official website, Horsepens is home to many varieties of rare birds, animal, and plants, as well as ancient burial mounds and Native American Fetishes. From the official website:
Since it is a natural stone fortress atop a fortress-like mountain, it was used by the Native Americans as a protected village and ceremonial area for thousands of years. There are living and working areas as well as burial areas dating back to the Paleo (pre- Stone Age-12,000+ years ago) and Archaic (early Stone Age-10,000 years ago) periods up to more recent times throughout the park. We also have what may be the only remaining example in the United States of an ancient leaching pit that has seen actual historical use.[1]
The boulders range from 400 to 600 million years old with a section that scientists say may possibly date back over a billion years old. [1]
Horsepens 40 is home to field mice, mountain lions, foxes, badgers, black bear, coyotes, raccoons, deer, groundhogs, squirrels, as well as an assortment of hawks, owls, and the rare red-cockaded woodpecker and red piliated woodpeckers.
[edit] Bouldering
Horsepens is home to one of the most concentrated boulder fields in the world [1]. The boulders are made of "ancient erosion carved sandstone". In most places they are solid enough to climb, however some boulders are made of weaker sandstone that crumbles to the touch. Certain bouldering routes take advantage of this "feature" (such as some of the routes in the Ten Pins section) to add to the difficulty rating of a problem.
Problems at Horsepens 40 range from V0- to V11. In addition, several problems beyond V11 are ranked as V$$$$, and a send on these problems in the presence of a judge earns the climber a cash prize.
Horsepens 40 is famous for its slopers and difficult top-outs and mantles. Beta provided by the park rates the exposure on a problem on a "carnage" scale ranging from "Casual"-"Sketchy"-"Scary"-"Nuts". Some routes are particularly exposed and have dangerous top-outs, with "highball" risks and lots of falling danger. One route in particular, Team Chattanooga (V6), is listed as "Nuts" and Horsepens requires a minimum of 4 spotters and 7 crash pads before attempting this climb.
Horsepens 40 sponsors several climbing competitions per year, including a leg of the Triple Crown competition the annual "Sloperfest Slap-N-Jam" bouldering and bluegrass festival.
Topo maps and "beta" for Horsepens can be found at Dr. Topo.
The best time of year to climb Horsepens is late fall to early spring [2]
Climbing costs $5 per day. Camping overnight costs $10 and includes free climbing access. Night climbing is free for campers.
[edit] Notable routes
- Crisifix (V5)
- Brawn (V4)
- Wasp (V2)
- Slider (V9), Super Slider (V10) and Slider Sit (V10)
- Uniball (V3)
- Thumbalina (V5)
- Man With The Slow Hand (V4)
- Red Arrow (V4)
- Stretch Armstrong (V6)
- Spirit (V1)
- Genesis (V3)- the first route established at the park.
- Bumboy (V4)
- Millipede (V6)
- Mortal Combat (V3)
- Pope In A Cowboy Hat (V4)
[edit] Bluegrass
In the late 1950s, a bluegrass festival was started at Horsepens. It was one of the first outdoor bluegrass music festivals in the country, and by the 1970s had grown to be one of the largest in the world. Musicians who have played at Horsepens include Bill Monroe, Dr. Ralph Stanley, Doc Watson, Deacon Dan Crary, Ace Weems and the Fat Meat Boys, The Osbourne Brothers, Sam McGee, The Red Clay Ramblers, Norman Blake, Lester Flatt, Earl Scruggs, Charlie Daniels, Ricky Skaggs, Allison Krause, Skydog Gypsy, and many more. Musicians who got their start at Horsepens include Emmylou Harris, Three On A String,Marty Stewart, and more.
[edit] External links
- Official website
- Topo for Horsepens including a list of all routes, their grade, and beta.
