Homburg (hat)
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A homburg is a stiff felt hat that is superficially very similar to the trilby or fedora, since both can have a crease from the front to the back of the crown, known as a "center dent". The homburg usually has no pinches, and has a brim with the edge sharply turned up all the way around. It is typically made from wool or fur felt and has a grosgrain hatband and brim treatment with an optional feather. A variant form is the "lord's hat", which lacks the edge ribbon, and may, optionally, be pinched.
It was popularized by Edward VII after he visited Bad Homburg in Hessen, Germany, and brought back a hat of this style. Like the trilby or fedora, the homburg was once quite popular and is still available in almost any color, but the most common colors are black, grey, and brown. In Britain a black homburg became widely known in the 1930s as an "Anthony Eden" after the Government Minister of that name.
In formality, the homburg ranks just below the top hat, and above hats such as the bowler or fedora. It is appropriate (often with a topcoat) with a stroller, or with black tie.
The "Godfather" hat, as it is sometimes referred to in American popular culture, was made popular by many legendary gangster and mafia movies made in Hollywood. It was also made famous as a trademark of British comedian Tony Hancock. Flower power pop group Procol Harum had a hit single "Homburg" in 1968 about the hat. The biggest names in the world of "hip-hop" brought it back into style in the late 1990s and is still popular with many artists of today. Many of the hats sold as "Godfather homburgs" have a wider brim than a regular homburg, with the brim rolled up more on the sides, like a bowler.