History of Plymouth

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The History of Plymouth goes back to the Bronze Age, where its first settlement at Mount Batten grew. It continued to grow as a trading post for the Roman Empire, until the more prosperous settlement of Sutton, the current Plymouth, surpassed it. In 1620 the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for the New World from Plymouth, thereby establishing the modern English-speaking constitution of the United States of America. About 25 years later the town was besieged between 1642 1646, during the English Civil War, by the Parliamentarians. Throughout the Industrial Revolution Plymouth grew as a major shipping industry, including imports and passengers from the USA and the construction of Ships, ranging from small fishing boats to Battleships for the Royal Navy. This later lead to its partial destruction, during World War Two, known as the Plymouth Blitz. After the war was over, the City Centre was completely rebuilt.

Contents

[edit] Early history

Smeaton's Tower
Smeaton's Tower
A map of Plymouth in 1888.
A map of Plymouth in 1888.

The earliest human remains in the Plymouth area are from a number of caves around Plymouth Sound. The ‘bone caves’, located at Cattedown, Oreston, Turnchapel and Stonehouse, contain extensive Upper Palaeolithic deposits, including those of Homo sapiens, some of the earliest such evidence in England. A reindeer bone from one of the Cattedown caves is dated 15,125 ± 390 years B.P. There is no public access to the caves, and they are not easily locatable or visitable. However their archaeological importance is very great, owing to both the geographical location of the Cattedown discovery, in a European context, and to the quantitative and qualitative nature and physical disposition of the human remains; this is one of the most important discoveries for the early history of anatomically modern humans in Europe. There is currently no evidence of Homo neanderthalensis ever having been found in caves at Cattedown, Oreston, Stonehouse or Mount Batten (Turnchapel). [1]

The earliest known settlement in the area now occupied by Plymouth is at Mount Batten. It dates from the late Bronze Age, and was later an Iron Age trading port.[2] It used to be thought, based on ancient Greek accounts, that tin brought from Dartmoor via the River Plym was traded with the Phoenicians here, but this theory is now discounted.[3] As part of the Roman Empire this port traded tin along with cattle and hides but was later overshadowed by the rise of the fishing village of Sutton opposite, whose name means south town.

At the time of the Domesday Book (1086) the manor of Sutton was held by the King, but Henry I granted it to the Valletort family of nearby Trematon Castle. The Valletorts in turn granted parts to the Augustinian priory at Plympton, a larger and older settlement than Plymouth, at the head of the tidal estuary of the River Plym. That part of the town owned by Plympton Priory was granted a market charter in 1254, and the whole town and its surrounding area achieved municipal independence in 1439, becoming the first town to be incorporated by Act of Parliament.

As the higher parts of the Plym estuary silted up, ships used the Cattewater moorings and the then tidal harbour at the Plym's mouth instead of Plympton. And so the name of the town Sutton slowly became Plymouth. The name Sutton still exists in the name of its old harbour and a parliamentary division.

In 1403, the town was briefly occupied and burnt by Bretons. The town was often the target of enemies across the English Channel, especially during the Hundred Years' War. A series of fortifications were built in the Tudor and Elizabethan era which include the four round towers featured on the city coat of arms; the remains of two of these can still be found at Mount Batten and at Sutton Pool below the Royal Citadel.

[edit] Renaissance Age

During the 16th century, Plymouth was the home port for a number of successful maritime traders, among them William Hawkins, who made the first English expeditions to West Africa in the 1530s; and his son Sir John Hawkins, who led England's first foray into the slave trade.[4]

The historic port of Sutton Harbour, located in The Barbican, has seen the arrival and departure of many notable people; for example Catherine of Aragon and Pocahontas arrived here in England in 1501 and 1616 respectively.

Plymouth Hoe, meaning high place, is a wide grass meadow atop cliffs overlooking the natural harbour of Plymouth Sound. According to an enduring national myth, this is the place where Sir Francis Drake insisted on completing his game of bowls to allow wind and tide to change in his favour enabling his defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588.

There is written evidence that until the early 17th century large outline images of the giants Gog and Magog (or Goemagot and Corineus) had for a long time been cut into the grass of the Hoe exposing the white limestone beneath.[5] There is no trace of these figures today.

Plymouth is also internationally renowned as the departure point of the Mayflower in 1620, aboard which the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for the New World, thereby establishing the modern English-speaking constitution of the United States of America. On sighting land, they christened their first point of contact on the western Atlantic shore Plymouth Rock in gratitude for the hospitality they had received whilst wintering in Plymouth. Their settlement of Plymouth, Massachusetts also bears the name of its European forebear. Twin flags of the US and UK now fly at the Mayflower Steps to commemorate the significance of this event to both nations.

[edit] Civil War and Restoration

During the English Civil War Plymouth sided with the Parliamentarians and so was isolated from the surrounding regions of Devon and Cornwall which were held by Royalist sympathisers. The town was besieged for almost four years until the Royalists were defeated. Various skirmishes and confrontations occurred, including the battle of St Budeaux and the rout of Royalist cavalry along Lipson Ridge. Freedom Fields Park still commemorates the latter site.

Construction of the Royal Citadel began in 1665, after the Restoration; it was armed with cannon facing both out to sea and into the town, rumoured to be a reminder to residents not to oppose the Crown. The dockyards at Devonport at the mouth of the Tamar, were founded in 1689 by King William III thereby establishing the naval service economy which later came to dominate the city.

[edit] Napoleonic era

After his defeat at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, Napoleon Bonaparte was brought to Plymouth aboard HMS Bellerophon which remained in Plymouth Sound for two weeks before his exile to St Helena. Under renewed threat of invasion from across the English Channel, Plymouth Sound and the dockyards at Devonport once again assumed a critical strategic significance in the defence of the nation. Though the threat never materialised, the sound was heavily fortified with early nineteenth century gun emplacements installed at Mount Edgecumbe and St Nicholas Island (now Drake's Island), and with the construction of forts guarding the port on the headlands at the mouth of the harbour.[citations needed]

The Three Towns enjoyed some prosperity during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century and were enriched by an series of neo-classical urban developments designed by London architect John Foulston.[6] Foulston was an important and early advocate of the Greek Revival[citation needed] and was responsible for several grand public buildings, many now destroyed, including the Athenaeum, the Theatre Royal and Royal Hotel, and much of Union Street.[6]

[edit] Twentieth Century

Part of an Ordnance Survey 1" map showing Plymouth in 1936.
Part of an Ordnance Survey 1" map showing Plymouth in 1936.

Until World War II, the port at Millbay Docks was used for Transatlantic liner shipping, as it had been since the 1870s. Many of the surviving crew of the RMS Titanic disaster disembarked at Millbay docks on their return to England in 1912.[7]

The ruined Charles Church, the city's memorial to the civilians killed in the Blitz.
The ruined Charles Church, the city's memorial to the civilians killed in the Blitz.

[edit] World War II

Main article: Plymouth Blitz

Due to its strategic proximity to the northern coast of France and its naval preeminence, the city was heavily blitzed by the Luftwaffe during the Second World War. Although the dockyards were the principal targets, the two main shopping centres, most of the civic buildings and over 3,700 houses were completely destroyed and more than 1,000 civilians lost their lives.[8] Charles Church has been left in its ruined state as a memorial to those civilians who died. On the Hoe stands a memorial to the many members of the Royal Navy from Plymouth who were killed in both World Wars.[9]

In June 1944 Plymouth was one of the principal staging posts for the Normandy landings. General Omar Bradley and the 1st US Army embarked here for the landings at Omaha Beach and Utah Beach and after the initial bombardments some of the American battleships came to the dockyard for repair.[8]

[edit] 1945 to the present

Sir Patrick Abercrombie's 1943 Plan for Plymouth was published well before the war ended in 1945 in response the devastation inflicted upon the city. Its wide-ranging vision called for the destruction of the few remaining pre-War buildings in the city centre and their replacement with wide, modern boulevards aligned east-west linked by a grand north-south avenue (Armada Way) linking the railway station with Plymouth Hoe.[10]

The Plan had to deal not only with the effects of the War, but also the pre-war defects of the city: much of the housing and many narrow streets were overcrowded. The main concern was for housing, and many prefabs were built by 1946, followed by over a thousand permanent council houses built each year from 1951–1957 as part of the 'Homes for Heroes' programme . The first estate, at Efford, was started in 1945 and this was rapidly followed by many others, laid out according to the Plan. By 1964 over 20,000 new homes had been built, more than 13,500 of them permanent council homes and 853 built by the Admiralty. Despite all this building, in 1971 over ten percent of the houses in Plymouth were still occupied by more than one family.[11]

After the war, the Admiralty required more space in the city and by 1950, after much discussion, fifty acres were allocated. Devonport Dockyard was kept busy for many years refitting aircraft carriers such as the Ark Royal. By the time this work ended in the late 1970s the nuclear submarine base was operational. In the 1950s a new Royal Navy Engineering College was built at Manadon, and HMS Raleigh, the current basic training facility of the Royal Navy, was opened west of Torpoint. The army had substantially left the city by 1971, with Raglan Barracks and Plumer Barracks pulled down in the 1960s.[11] However the Royal Citadel has been home to 29th Commando Regiment Royal Artillery since 1962,[11] and 42 Commando Royal Marines has been based at Bickleigh Barracks, a few miles outside Plymouth, since 1971.[12]

On 28 May 1967 Sir Francis Chichester returned to Plymouth after the first single handed Clipper Route circumnavigation of the world and was greeted by an estimated crowd of a million spectators on the Hoe and every vantage point from Rame Head to Wembury.

[edit] References

  1. ^ The bone caves of Plymouth and district website.. Retrieved on 2008-05-27.
  2. ^ Barry Cunliffe (2004). Britain and the Continent: Networks of Interaction. In A Companion to Roman Britain, ed. Malcolm Todd. Blackwell Publishing. p. 3. ISBN 0-631-21823-8. Google Book Search. Retrieved 2007-10-13.
  3. ^ Todd, Malcolm (1987). The South West to AD 1000. London: Longman, 185-187. ISBN 0-582-49274-2. 
  4. ^ Adventurers and Slavers. The National Archives. Retrieved on 2007-10-13.
  5. ^ Gray, Todd (2003). Lost Devon: Creation, Change and Destruction over 500 Years. Exeter, Devon: The Mint Press, 153. ISBN 1-90335-632-6. 
  6. ^ a b Plymouth, John Foulston. www.plymouthdata.info. Retrieved on 2008-05-16.
  7. ^ Langley, Martin (1987). Millbay Docks (Port of Plymouth series). Exeter: Devon Books, 17. ISBN 0-86114-806-1. 
  8. ^ a b Gill, Crispin (1993). Plymouth. A New History. Devon Books, 259-262. ISBN 0-86114-882-7. 
  9. ^ Plymouth, Naval War Memorial. plymouthdata.info. Retrieved on 2008-03-28.
  10. ^ Gould, Jeremy : Architecture and the Plan for Plymouth: The Legacy of a British City, Architectural Review March 2007
  11. ^ a b c Gill, Crispin (1993). Plymouth. A New History. Devon Books, 262-267. ISBN 0-86114-882-7. 
  12. ^ A Short History of 42 CDO RM & Bickleigh Barracks. www.royalmarines.mod.uk. Retrieved on 2008-02-18.