History of Chinese cuisine

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Chinese cuisine

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The History of Chinese cuisine in China can be traced back to the Peking Man and his use of fire and the invention of "cuisine" some 400,000 years ago. Some other accounts of the history of Chinese cuisine takes the beginning back to the Chinese stone age, where the cultivation of rice and the production of noodles, both typical representations of Chinese cuisine as we know it today, are known from archeological findings.

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[edit] Practices

Over the centuries, as new food sources and techniques were invented, the Chinese cuisine as we know it gradually evolved, with the use of chopsticks made from all sorts of materials as eating utensils, another one of the hallmarks of Chinese cuisine, going back at least to the Zhou Dynasty; stir-fried dishes became popular during the Tang Dynasty. The stir-fry method of cooking was invented as a necessity to conserve expensive and scarce fuel.

[edit] Chinese cuisine classifications

Not long after the expansion of the Chinese Empire during the Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty, Chinese writers noted the great differences in culinary practices between people from different parts of the realm. These differences, following to a great extent the varying climate and availability of food sources in China, could be very local in nature but were early on systematized in lists of Chinese cuisines, they are:

[edit] North and South

The North and South cuisines, the earliest distinction, and one that is still much used today even as the food culture of North and South China of course have developed much since the distinction was first made.

[edit] Traditional Four schools classifications

Chinese cuisines belong to one of the Four Schools. The School of Lu (Shandong), is the largest due to its history, which is also the longest among all. The Four Schools, being Lu, Yang (named after Jiangsu's major style, Huaiyang cuisine), Chuan and Yue. Often translated as the cuisines of Shandong, Sichuan, Jiangsu and Guangdong.

Lu (Shandong) Yang (Su) Yue (Guangdong/Cantonese) Chuan (Sichuan)

[edit] Eight schools classification

The Eight Schools include the four major branch of the "Four schools" and add the following to the above Hunan, Fujian, Anhui and Zhejiang.

[edit] Ten schools classification

The Ten Schools, adding to the eight above the cuisines of Beijing and Shanghai.

[edit] History

[edit] Early dynastic times

There has always been a major class difference between the royalties and the regular citizens living outside the imperial quarters. It should be noted that Beijing was not always the capital of China. In fact the geography of the far northeastern corner of China with its long, harsh winters with limited agricultural possibilities, has always posed serious water and food supply problems.[1]

[edit] Qing dynasty

The records of the Imperial Banqueting Court (光祿寺, Kuang-lu ssu) published in the late Qing period showed there were 6 levels of Manchu banquets (滿席) and 5 of Chinese banquets (漢席).[2] The royal Manchu Han Imperial Feast is one that combined both traditions.

[edit] 1950s - 1980s

Since the founding of the People's Republic of China, the nation have suffered from a series of major food supply problems under the Communist Party of China. Countryside poor provinces like Henan and Gansu experienced the worst. By January 1959 the food supply for residents in Beijing was reduced to 1 cabbage per household per day. Many peasants suffered from malnutrition, and at the same time increasing the amount they handed over to the state.[3] Beginning in 1960, the Great Chinese Famine contributed to more problems due to bad government policies. During this time there was little to no advancement in the culinary tradition. Many fled to neighbouring Hong Kong and Taiwan to avoid starvation.

Year Percent of grain handed over
to the Communist party[3]
1957 24.6%
1959 39.6%
1960 35.7%

[edit] 1990s

Beijing in particular has tried its own Communist style cuisine titled Cultural Revolution cuisine or CR cuisine. Other designs include the Retro-Maoist cuisine, which cashed in on the 100th anniversary of Mao Zedong's birthday, whether it was officially endorsed or not. The peasant menu includes items such as cornmeal cakes and rice gruel.[4] In February 1994 the Wall street journal wrote an article about Retro-Maoist cuisine being a hit in China. Owners of a CR-style restaurants said "We're not nostalgic for Mao, per se. We're nostalgic for our youth."[4] The cuisine is denied by the Chinese government as an actual cuisine.

One of the cuisine to benefit in the 1990s was the Chinese Islamic cuisine. During the Great Leap Forward and Cultural revolution of the 70s, the government used strong-arm techniques to make non-Han races conform to Han Chinese. Groups like the Hui people would become a minority group. To help re-promote their rare cuisine, the huis began labeling their food as "Traditional Hui cuisine". Examples such as the "Yan's family eatery" earned 15,000 yuan net income per month in 1994 for their family.[5] This is well above the national salary average at the time.

[edit] Famous quotes

[edit] Chinese cuisine quote - original version

A common saying in Chinese cuisine has been around in Chinese culture for some time. Its exact origin is unknown, though it attempts to summarize the entire cuisine in one sentence. The order of the directions can vary within local culture. For example, East may not necessarily come first.

Language Phrase
Traditional Chinese 東甜, 南鹹, 西酸, 北辣 [6][7]
Simplified Chinese 东甜, 南咸, 西酸, 北辣
English East is sweet, South is salty, West is sour, North is spicy
Pinyin dong1 tian2, nan2 xian2, xi1 suan1, bei3 la4
Jyutping dung1 tim4, naam4 haam4, sai1 syun1, bak1 laat6*2

[edit] Chinese cuisine quote - popular online version

It should be noted Chinese cuisine have gone through numerous transformations through the different dynasties all the way up to modern times. Many different versions of the quote exist on the internet today. One of the most common version under google's search result suggest an overwhelmingly different version in mainland Simplified Chinese.[8]

Language Phrase
Traditional Chinese 南甜, 北鹹, 東辣, 西酸
Simplified Chinese 南甜, 北咸, 东辣, 西酸 [9][10]
English South is sweet, North is salty, East is spicy, West is sour

One can compare the original and pseudo version. For example, the original phrase suggest South is salty. This fits Cantonese cuisine and Hakka cuisine since both southern styles are largely dominated by salty tastes. But the more popular internet quote suggests south is sweet instead. This may be true because sweet tong sui is the major export from the southern region as seen from the mainland perspective. Also, in modern times the western styles of Sichuan and Hunan cuisines are widely renowned for their spicy dishes, more so then that of northern China. Both quotes can be debated literally down to the individual dish. Likely neither will ever emerge as the definitive quote.

[edit] Lifestyle quote

Language Phrase
Traditional Chinese 食在廣州, 死在柳州 , 玩在蘇州 , 住在杭州[11][12]
Simplified Chinese 食在广州 , 死在柳州 , 玩在苏州 , 住在杭州
English Eat in Guangzhou, Die in Liuzhou, Play in Suzhou, Live in Hangzhou

This popular phrase summarises Cantonese cuisine from Guangzhou as the standout in Chinese cuisine. The best wood is in Liuzhou, which is suitable for death and coffins. The most beautiful women is in Suzhou, and the most comfortable scenery for living is in Hangzhou. There are different variations of the quote available online. Cantonese cuisine is widely regarded as the one to eat within the ideal life.[11]

[edit] References

  1. ^ Haw, Stephen G. [2007] (2007). Beijing a Concise History. Routledge. ISBN 978041539906-7.
  2. ^ Spence, Jonathan D. [1993]. Chinese Roundabout: Essays in History and Culture. W. W. Norton & Company. ISBN 0393309940.
  3. ^ a b Jin, Qiu. Perry, Elizabeth J. The Culture of Power: The Lin Biao Incident in the Cultural Revolution. [1999] (1999). Stanford University Press. ISBN 0804735298
  4. ^ a b Tang, Xiaobing. Chinese Modern: The Heroic and the Quotidian. [2000] (2000). Duke University Press. ISBN 0822324474.
  5. ^ Gillette, Maris Boyd. [2000] (2000). Between Mecca and Beijing: Modernization and Consumption Among Urban Chinese. Stanford University Press. ISBN 0804746850.
  6. ^ Yhnkzq.com. "Yhnkzq.com verification of phrase existence from ancient China times." "Yangjing." Retrieved on 2007-09-30.
  7. ^ [This phrase has been consulted with a HK culinary experts in Sept-2007. Despite the many versions floating around on the internet, this is believed to be the original since it fits the best.]
  8. ^ Simple Google search suggests this is the most popular mainland version with an overwhelming number of hits returned in Simplified Chinese
  9. ^ Singtaonet.com
  10. ^ University of Kansas, East Asian studies
  11. ^ a b buddhistdoor.com Chinese lifestyle quote
  12. ^ Chinaonline.gov.cn quote

[edit] External links