Hans Christian Doseth

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Hans Christian Doseth (b. December 12, 1958 in Romsdal, Norway - d. August 6, 1984 in Pakistan) was a Norwegian climber. Doseth followed the standards of modern big wall climbing through many^[who?] first ascents in Europe and the Himalayas. Among his achievements were several first ascents of routes on Trollveggen (Troll Wall), Romsdal's north facing big wall, both in winter and summer. He did the first all-free ascent of the wall in 1979 (the "Rimmon Route"), and the first winter ascent of the "Swedish Route" (1980). Most notably was his first ascent of the technically difficult "Trollkjerringruta" (the Troll's Wife) in winter (1982) followed by the free ascent in summer 1983. Though moderately graded after today’s standards (Norw. grade 7, French grade 6c+), it is a demanding, serious climb through partly loose and poorly protected rock, that up to this day has seen only two or three repeats. Doseth also increased awareness of sport climbing in Northern Europe, introducing routes in the 5.12 range (French 7b/c) in Norway in the early 80s.

Doseth was killed together with his climbing partner Finn Dæhli on Great Trango Tower in Karakoram, Pakistan, after establishing the Norwegian Buttress, the first route to scale the massive east face of the mountain.

[edit] External links

• Article from High Sport Magazine (in Swedish)

[edit] Litterature

• Bø, Bjarte and Anne Grete Nebell, Klatring i Romsdal, 1999.

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