Hair care
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Hair care is an overall term for parts of hygiene and cosmetology involving the hair on the human head. Hair care will differ according to one's hair type and according to various processes that can be applied to hair. All hair is not the same; indeed, hair is a manifestation of human diversity.
In this article, 'Hair care' is taken to mean care of hair on the human head, but mention should be made of process and services which impact hair on other parts of the body. This includes men‘s and women’s facial, pubic, and other body hair, which may be dyed, trimmed, shaved, plucked, or otherwise removed with treatments such as waxing, sugaring, and threading. These services are offered in salons, barber shops, and day spas, and products are available commercially for home use Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though these are provided (in the US) by licensed professionals in medical offices or specialty spas.
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[edit] Hair cleaning and conditioning
[edit] Biological processes and hygiene
Care of the hair and care of the scalp skin may appear separate, but are actually intertwined because hair grows from beneath the skin. The living parts of hair (hair follicle, hair root, root sheath, and sebaceous gland) are beneath the skin, while the actual hair shaft which emerges (the cuticle which covers the cortex and medulla) has no living processes. Damage or changes made to the visible hair shaft cannot be repaired by a biological process, though much can be done to manage hair and ensure that the cuticle remains intact. (For more information on the biological processes involved in hair production, see Hair.)
Scalp skin, just as any other skin on the body, must be kept healthy to ensure a healthy body and healthy hair production. If the scalp is not cleaned regularly, by the removal of dead skin cells, toxins released through the skin or external hazards (such as bacteria, viruses, and chemicals) may create a breeding ground for infection. However, not all scalp disorders are a result of bacterial infections. Some arise inexplicably, and often only the symptoms can be treated for management of the condition (example: dandruff). There are also bacteria that can affect the hair itself, but in MEDC's (More Economically Developed Countries), this is much rarer. Head lice is probably the most common hair and scalp ailment world-wide. Head lice can be removed with great attention to detail, and studies show it is not necessarily associated with poor hygiene. (Indeed, even well-to-do households can experience head lice. More recent studies reveal that head lice actually thrive in clean hair.) In this way, hair washing as a term may be a bit misleading, as what is necessary in healthy hair production and maintenance is often simply cleaning the surface of the scalp skin, the way the skin all over the body requires cleaning for good hygiene.
The sebaceous glands in human skin produce sebum, which is composed primarily of fatty acids. Sebum acts to protect hair and skin, and can inhibit the growth of microorganisms on the skin. Sebum contributes to the skin’s slightly acidic natural pH somewhere between 5 and 6.8 on the pH spectrum. This oily substance gives hair moisture and shine as it travels naturally down the hair shaft, and serves as a protective substance preventing the hair from drying out or absorbing excessive amounts of external substances. Sebum is also distributed down the hair shaft “mechanically” by brushing and combing. When sebum is present in excess, the roots of the hair can appear oily, greasy, generally darker than normal, and the hair may stick together.
[edit] Hair cleaning
To combat this appearance of “dirty” hair, and to remove actual dirt and other contaminants and external substances like sweat, the hair may be washed. Often hair is washed as part of a shower or bathing with a specialized soap called shampoo. Those with damaged or curly hair, or sensitive scalps, may benefit from cleansing with a light conditioner, instead. However, this requires that only water-soluble products are applied to the hair and scalp.
Shampoo is helped by warm temperature water, which helps open the cuticle of the hair and release any oils or other substances beneath. Pure water has a pH of 7, and when shampoo has removed the slightly acidic sebum from the hair, the pH on the surface of the scalp is raised. Freshly shampooed hair can feel tangled or rough, and hair which is left to dry after a shampoo only can be excessively dry and coarse. To smooth the hair, Conditioner is often used. Conditioners may employ ingredients of an acidic nature to balance the hair and scalp pH. Many modern conditioners also contain plant oils or synthetic ingredients such as plastics to coat the hair shaft and smooth it out. Acidic rinses or chemical conditioners can help with hair detangling and manageability, which helps prevent damage.
The sebaceous glands increase or reduce their secretions in order to maintain proper skin protection and pH. When the skin is regularly stripped of its natural sebum, the sebaceous glands respond with an overproduction. People observe that they “must” wash their hair, for example, once every other day, otherwise their hair becomes oily, however their sebaceous glands have simply adapted to their hygienic cycle. Changes to the hygienic cycle result in changes to sebum secretion.
Modern shampoos and conditioners are not necessary to maintain clean and healthy hair, and indeed, many cultures do not have these products at all. Different methods are available for those people who wish to return to this “natural” hair state, where healthy hair can be maintained with scalp massage, water-only washes, or using cleaning agents very rarely. Natural baseline sebum secretion varies by individual, and returning the scalp to this state takes time. This process may often include using cleaning agents, but is generally geared towards leaving the sebum on the scalp and hair for as long as possible to reacclimatize the scalp to producing less sebum. This process may not be for everyone, as some who try this method never reach a point where they feel their hair can be clean for any extended period of time without washing with conventional shampoo.
Using cold water as a final rinse can help close the scales of the cuticle, and can help constrict the openings of the sebaceous glands to help moderate sebum production.
[edit] Western cleaning products and methods
When choosing a shampoo, notice the pH rating, if provided. A more alkaline rated (meaning a high pH) shampoo is stronger and harsher to one's hair. This can mean that the hair will be left dry and brittle. Look for shampoos that fall between acidic and alkaline (or base) ratings, in the center. Shampoos containing citric, lactic or phosphoric acid are most likely balanced. Oily hair might require a more acidic pH shampoo. If the pH is not listed, a quick way to make the shampoo less harsh is to dilute it slightly with water.
It is recommended to use anti-dandruff shampoos with care; they are more aggressive, can make hair less lively, irritate the scalp, and can actually increase the production of dandruff. Note the active ingredient in the dandruff shampoo as different active ingredients may address the problem better or less so. Nizoral shampoo is a product to consider for its active ingredient choice and also that it does not dry out the hair as other dandruff products might cause. (There are two versions of Nizoral: one is Over The Counter (OTC), and one is prescription strength. This shampoo is sometimes used in combination with any medication to remove bacterial infections off the scalp skin.) Dandruff, despite common belief, is more often related to too much, or an issue somehow with, sebum production and not dry scalp skin. Not all flakes are dandruff, so do consult with a qualified physician to determine not only that one indeed does have dandruff; but also, what type of dandruff one may have. If one is experiencing redness of the scalp skin, bumps on the scalp skin, and any weeping from sores and/or bleeding in addition to flakes, professional medical diagnosis should be sought.
Conditioner choice is greatly dependent upon hair type and hair status, such as colored, permed, dry, and the like. Commercial conditioners contain a variety of ingredients such as plant oils, pro-vitamins, acidic compounds, plastics, stabilizers, thickeners, emulsifiers, and fragrances.
Conditioners may sometimes add weight to hair, creating an adverse effect in the shampooing/conditioning process. Some conditioners, especially those containing a silicone compound, may coat the hair and lead to build up on the hair, making it dull, and lead to harsher shampoo use; in a sense, an endless cycle of shampooing and conditioning. When used correctly, however, conditioners are helpful in temporarily coating the hair to increase shine and ease tangles.
Buildup is when the hair has a tacky feel to it, a kind of gumminess, the conditioner choice seems to work less well, or the hair may be more prone to tangling. Buildup derives from the minerals from water and/or products not washing out in a normal shampoo procedure and building up on the hair shaft, and a clarifying shampoo may be required to remove it. Clarifying removes all things on the surface of the hair strands, essentially leaving the hair without moisture. Be sure to condition well after any clarifying product is applied to the hair to replace what's been removed. If one fails to condition as part of a clarifying hair wash process, the hair may be dry, brittle, coarse, or "fly-away" hair. To reduce or eliminate this buildup, a switch to a silicone-free conditioner may be made.
Viable natural ways to condition the hair include rinses with lemon juice, lime juice, or vinegar. These acids should be diluted well in plenty of water and rinsed thoroughly from the hair. Blondes are recommended to use white vinegar to avoid hair darkening over time. Apple cider vinegar contains malic acid which is friendly for acid mantle health. Do not use flavored or balsamic vinegars, as they contain sugars. The use of acid rinses may assist those who have itchy scalps, depending on the cause for the itchiness. Hair which is lacking sebum may also be softened using plant oils such as olive oil and coconut oil.
[edit] Washing “How To”
There are various ways to shampoo hair, and selection of a method is determined by one's hair type and available resources.
The first step in any shampooing methodology is to prepare the hair by detangling it to remove any hairs that are prepared to shed. This step also helps prevent excessive tangles for those possessing longer lengths.
The most common method of hair washing is shampooing followed by conditioning. This means to apply shampoo in the palm of the hands, approximately the size of a quarter at maximum for most hair lengths. Lather in the hands then apply to thoroughly wet hair. Wash the hair without piling the hair (as this causes tangles and overly luffs the cuticle). For any length, simply squeeze the shampoo down the length of the hair. It will become sufficiently clean. If one is a daily hair washer, then a repeating of the hair shampoo application may not be necessary. However, if one waits a day or more between hair washings, then the first shampoo may only break up the surface tension of sebum, and a second shampoo application to the scalp hair may be necessary to thoroughly remove the sebum. The second application is not necessary to apply to any hair length.
Never use fingernails to scrape the scalp skin. To help lift any scaly skin, detritis, and sebum, especially for those who suffer from scalp skin ailments, very gently scratching the surface of the skin with a small fine toothed comb may help to loosen and lift grime and dead skin cells before a hair wash, helping to have a cleaner scalp skin after a hair wash.
Follow with conditioner, allowing it to remain on the hair in a humid environment for around 10 minutes for full penetration. A long and thorough rinsing out of the conditioner with water is a good habit, even if one is in a hurry; failing to do so, the hair may be dull and tacky to the touch if product remains on the hair.
Always blot the hair dry; avoid rubbing the hair with a towel as this too luffs the cuticle. Microfiber towels that help absorb the water from hair faster than conventional towels are available on the market. These are particularly helpful for those with very thick hair that may otherwise take a while to dry, especially if air drying.
[edit] Physical styling
Hair dressing processes (and resulting care requirements) may often be associated with the female gender, but hair care and dressing is no longer just for females, if indeed it ever was. Many males benefit from improved care, especially considering that males also color (music industry, to cover gray) and enjoy alternative shapes and hair styles.
For many, hair care means a visit to a professional stylist. Hair styling is a major world industry, from the salon to products to advertising and even magazines on the subject. Indeed, the topic is displayed and discussed in various online discussion forums. Hair dressing may include cuts, weaves, coloring, extensions, perms, permanent relaxers, curling and any other form of styling or texturing.
[edit] Length and trimming
The standard hair lengths are determined by the natural curves of the body. This standard originated with Long Hair expert George Michael. There are many body shapes and sizes and so these hair lengths fall to the natural curves of your own body. George Michael encourages his clients that if they are going to remain at a length, it should be at one of the standard lengths.
The other hair lengths are much more unusual and require special family genes that will allow hair to grow to this length without falling out. This is called terminal length. Even if you want to grow longer than classic length, if its not in your genes, it won't be possible [1]
Haircuts or hair trimming often involves creating a specific shape and form, and maintaining such sculpture. Haircuts can also be used to define a hemline along the ends and edges of longer lengths. Hair cutting may include shaving the head, in which case scalp skin care would be required. In some settings, hair cutting, creating forms and shapes are an expressive art form. Hair cutting often involves considerations of body proportions, hair density and hair type, face and head shape from all views (profile, 3/4 and 360 degree, from above and from below), overall bone structure, and pattern of how hair lies or falls.
Hair shapes and various lengths are often derived from concerns regarding personal expression and aesthetics (examples: dreadlocks, punk hair, the business haircut/style, very long hair), religion (for example, Pentecostal faith among others), social and cultural values. In short, hair is often a physical expression of one's sense of self, of a desire to present oneself to and amongst a community, of social status and roles, and of cultural values. Such expression often involves adding ornaments to the hair, or partial or full hair coverings (such as a Kippa, Hijab, or a Turban).
Although trimming may beautify hair by removing damaged or split ends, cutting does not promote faster growth. Nor does trimming remove all damage throughout the hair. Damage can occur anywhere in any length of hair, depending on overall care it is given and any processes that are applied. Trimming can help with tangles if one trims a slight amount off the ends of overall length when it's noticed that tangles seem to be more of a problem. Trimming at regular intervals is only necessary for maintaining formed shapes, usually. Hair grows at the same rate regardless, and the rate is largely a matter of heredity and hormones. If one is interested in gaining length, trimming a small amount that represents a mere percent of overall gained length will help maintain a healthy hemline while working towards gained length. There exist ways to trim hair oneself as outlined in places on the internet and hair care reading materials.
Trimming hair is best done when dry. This is especially true of those who possess any body to their hair. It’s important to visualize the line as it will actually be worn when dry. Wet hair stretches rather significantly in length. Curly hair will unfurl a fair amount when fully wet, and different areas of the hair may have a larger degree of curl or different direction of curl than others. Thus, cutting curly hair while wet may result in uneven lines or unexpected results with regard to actual length. Further, curly hair, in particular, once dry, might appear visually to have an uneven line depending on how the curl coils back up. Trimming hair dry prevents these possibilities as the stylist can work with how the hair actually appears, even being detailed in curl to ensure cutting is done at a certain area along the coil of curled hair so it furls in an optimum manner and does not disrupt the pattern of curl. Lorraine Massey, author of Curly Girl, specializes in the care of curly hair types, and has designed a specific method for trimming curly hair to avoid these problems. The reason stylists like working with wet hair may be related to weight. Wet hair is heavier and may be easier to manage in a cut/style situation since the hair remains in place thus holding a line and making it easier for the stylist to create a form.
During any cutting, a person should sit or stand tall and straight, and avoid moving, especially any tilting of the head in any direction as this affects the stylists visualization of line, form and structure. Of course, if a chemical process is being applied to the hair, it must be wetted. If one is interested in "just a trim" it is best to be specific with exactly how much one desires to have removed to prevent misunderstandings between a stylist and client. If necessary, use a tape measure to further define and agree on the amount to be removed.
[edit] Detangling: brushing and combing
The point of detangling is to organize hair, usually in the same direction, and eliminate knots, snarles, tangles, and any hairs that have shed naturally.
There are all manner of detangling tools from very fine toothed combs to very wide toothed combs and picks, and available in a wide variety of price ranges. Combs come in all shapes and sizes and all manner of materials including plastics, wood and horn. It is imperative to ensure that the tool of choice has a smooth outer surface that generally glides through the hair, and any edges are removed. Mold seams, splintering wood, and peeling lacquers can all grasp hair and pull, or otherwise stress or cause harm to the outer protective layer of hair, the cuticle. Similarly, brushes also come in all sizes and shapes. One’s styling needs will determine the suitable tools, and one’s stylist should advise as to the proper choices and how to use them to create and maintain the style at home between visits. There are also a variety of brushes in various paddle shapes. Most benefit from using some form of a wide tooth comb for detangling. If such a comb has mold seams on it (such as between the teeth a little edge of plastic), or excess plastic that wasn’t clipped off in the manufacturing process, using a piece of fine grade sand paper to sand these down to a smoother surface. If a comb’s teeth ends prove too sharp, you can also use fine grade sandpaper to round the teeth a bit more. Detangling with a wide tooth comb represents the gentlest way to detangle hair. For reasons of hygiene, never share detangling tools, even within a family, to prevent the spread of infections such as head lice.
The safest way to detangle hair is to do so while it is dry. Wet hair is fully swelled and fully stretched, and in detangling, one can overly stress the hair. Detangling the hair before washing it also makes it easier to get the products being used down to the scalp, and makes it easeir to rinse these products out. However, for many curly hair types, detangling dry hair can result in even more frustration, as the hair may frizz out or tangle even worse. It may be easier to detangle (very gently) using a detangling product, a significant amount of smoothing product, leave in conditioner, in the shower with regular conditioner, or under running water.
To detangle hair, begin close the bottom (or ends) of the hair, drawing your detangling tool away from the roots. When the bottom section is free of tangles, move up the hair a short distance and repeat, continuing until the entire length of hair is detangled. If there is a lot of hair or it is very thick, it is beneficial to detangle separate parts at a time. If you encounter a snag or tangle, loosen the tangle with the fingers by delicately separating out the area of the tangle from the rest of the hair, then work gently to loosen by drawing individual hairs upward and out to the side yet away from the knot. Do not draw the hairs down. Once the tangle is loosened, resuming detangling with a tool is fine. When detangling hair, never start from the top and force the tool down through the hair, as this causes painful pulling on individual hair follicles and can possibly damage or break the hair under the strain. This can also result in tightening any knots which are already present.
The old notion that 100 brush strokes a day produces beautiful hair is false. Too much brushing may injure the hair, especially with brushes that pull the hair or scratch the scalp. Detangle the hair and then leave it be. The 100 strokes may only be applicable, perhaps, if using a Boar Bristle Brush to polish the hair by distributing sebum and/or applied oils. It remains a possibility that the dictum of 100 strokes a day derives from the era when Boar Bristle Brushes were more commonly used, well before the invention of plastics and a time when more organic materials were used to create hair care tools. Usually in conjunction with the idea of 100 strokes a day was the suggestion that hair will 'shine' and be 'soft' to the touch. This is the usual result of Boar Bristle Brushing.
There are three phases to the cycle of hair growth: growth, loss/shed, rest, regrowth. It is natural to observe a significant amount of hair shedding during detangling or washing, but any changes or drastic increase in the rate of shedding may signal a health or nutritional problem. Detangling helps to remove the hair that has been shed, and using a brush also promotes scalp health by removing loose dirt and dandruff.
[edit] Drying
Hair dryers speed the drying process of hair by passing air, which is usually heated, over the wet hair shaft, accelerating the rate of water evaporation.
Excess heat may overly dry the hair, increasing the incidence of splitting or other damage. Sparing use of hair dryers or use at lower temperatures may reduce this risk. Hair dryer diffusers can be used to diffuse the stream of air flow so it is weaker but covers a larger area of the hair.
It is best to pat the hair dry with a towel or absorbent cloth and allow the hair to air dry as much as possible, thus reducing the amount of heat that will be needed. Ensure the room you are in has proper ventilation; if humid air is replaced by dryer air, the water in your hair will evaporate more easily. Use a hair dryer only to the point where the hair is almost dry. This ensures the heat is concentrated on removing the water, and stopping short ensures you don't continue to use heat on your already dry hair. These ideas can still allow one to style their hair while preserving the health, beauty and luster of the organic fiber that hair is.
[edit] Curling and straightening
Styling tools may include Hair irons (including flat and curling irons), hair dryers, Hairbrushes (both flat and round), hair rollers, diffusers and various types of scissors.
Hair dressing might also include the use of product to add texture, shine, curl, volume or hold to a particular style.
[edit] Braiding and “up-dos”
Tight or frequent braiding may pull at the hair roots and cause traction alopecia. Rubber bands with metal clasps or tight clips, which bend the hair shaft at extreme angles, should also be avoided. Braiding can be done on a regular basis if the braids are not too tight and the parting is varied so that the strain isn't on the same sections of hair all the time. The same holds true of placing hair in any forms of up-dos.
In placing longer lengths up, the same concern to avoid pulling hair overly tight should also be considered. Further, if one places hair up on a daily basis, varying the style is important since constantly binding the hair in the same location (such as a ponytail), using the same tool daily to hold the hair up, can, over time, lead to some thinning in certain areas, especially in instances where the tool is quite heavy (metal).
Headaches can occur when there is stress on the hair follicle. For example, hair drawn in a direction other than its natural growth pattern (hair types come out of the hair follicle in particular patterns for curly, body, straight; and also, hair grows in a pattern about the head so that it hangs or forms the way it does for humans). If hair, like braiding, is pinned too tightly, or the whole updo slips causing pulling on the hair in the follicle at the hair root are other scenarios that can cause aggravation to the hair follicle and result in headaches. This is because there is a system of capillaries and even veins that feed into the hair follicle, which is what nourishes the follicle to grow hair. If the hair follicle is aggravated, the capillaries are in turn aggravated and in this way a headache can arise. For those with heavy hair, consider dividing the weight of the hair or placing more of the hair in an updo on top of the head such that the skull supports the weight of the hair better. Also, consider using long bobby pins (what are technically named hair roller pins) to pin the hair in an interlocking network for better hold. Pin as one proceeds in creating the updo style for maximum staying in position. Do not wait until the end of forming the hair to pin into place.
[edit] Styling products
Styling products aside from shampoo and conditioner are many and varied. Leave-in conditioner, conditioning treatments, mousse, gels, lotions, waxes, creams, serums, oils, and sprays are used to change the texture or shape of the hair, or to hold it in place in a certain style. Applied properly, most styling products will not damage the hair apart from drying it out; most styling products contain alcohols, which can dissolve oils. Many hair products contain chemicals which can cause build-up, resulting in dull hair or a change in perceived texture. It is generally unwise to attempt to brush or comb hair which is being held in place by a styling product, as doing so may or may not damage it.
[edit] Wigs
Care of human or other natural hair wigs is similar to care of a normal head of hair in that the wig can be brushed, styled, and kept clean using haircare products. If you are purchasing a natural hair wig, be sure to speak with the vendor regarding proper care. Wig hair can be more delicate than normal head hair in that it does not have its own supply of moisture (sebum), and any stress or damage to the hair may not be immediately noticed since the hairs are not directly attached to nerve endings in the scalp.
Normal wig wearing, with the wig cap, is not injurious to the hair or scalp underneath, provided the wig is not too tight. An increase in scalp washing (such as shampooing) may become necessary because wigs increase scalp perspiration.
[edit] Functional and decorative ornaments
There are many options to adorn and arrange the hair. Hairpins, clasps, barrettes, headbands, ribbons, rubber bands (or "pony tails"), scrunchies, and combs can be used to achieve a variety of styles. There are also many decorative ornaments that, while they may have clasps to affix them to the hair, are used solely for appearance and do not aid in keeping the hair in place.
[edit] Chemical alteration
Whenever hair is chemically altered, as in a permanent or coloring, or anything similar, it is vital to use the proper products to maintain hair health and prevent excessive breakdown of the cuticle and cortex.
Before a hair color or permanent, or similar chemical alteration of the cortex is applied, it is wise to conduct a strand test. Professional salons should offer this service as part of the counseling session of what will be done that day to the hair, and/or as part of the process of chemical procedures. It should be conducted before the application of a chemical process. Some salons require a waiver be signed if a client refuses this procedure.
It is advised never to do more than one chemical process, such as color and perm, in the same session or within several days of the previous process, as this can cause breakage of the hair. Be sure to consult with a qualified stylist on this point and define when it's safe to do the second process.
A professional stylist maintains notes on their regular clients regarding history of processes, styles of cuts, and color values applied, and should be willing to divulge this information to their client. This is done in order to maintain consistency of care and to prevent any hair disasters. Whenever choosing to visit a new stylist for any reason, be sure to disclose all procedures previously done on the hair within the last two years. Disclosing how recently any procedure was done is vital. This is especially so in instances of color and chemical processes such as permanents. If the timeframe and name of procedure is not disclosed, or the incorrect information is disclosed (for example, claiming ammonia wasn’t used when in fact it was six days ago), this can lay the path for a hair disaster.
Chemical alteration of hair only affects the hair above the scalp; unless you have damaged your hair roots, new hair will grow in with your natural color, texture, and curliness.
[edit] Hair coloring
Hair coloring is the process of adding pigment to or removing pigment from the hair shaft. Hair coloring processes may be referred to as dyeing or bleaching, depending on whether you are adding or removing pigment.
You can use temporary hair tint to achieve a color darker than your existing color. Temporary hair tints simply coat the shaft with pigments which later wash off.
Most permanent color changes require that the cuticle of the hair be opened so the color change can take place within the cuticle. This process, which uses chemicals to alter the structure of the hair, can damage the cuticle or internal structure of the hair, leaving it dry, weak, or prone to breakage. After the hair processing, the cuticle may not fully close, which results in coarse hair or an accelerated loss of pigment. Generally, the lighter you go from your initial hair color, the more damaged it may be. Other options for applying color to hair besides chemical dyes include the use of such herbs as henna and indigo, or choosing ammonia-free solutions.
If using a new stylist to color hair, it’s desirable to bring a card from one’s former stylist to the new stylist so they know what color choices were made and degrees of color lift were applied. This is also true in instances when one’s stylist is on vacation or otherwise unavailable. Matching a color can be very difficult, so bringing along the information of what has been used previously can be very helpful to maintaining healthy hair and preventing any disasters.
Hair care after coloring should pay special attention to protection of the hair shaft. This may include increased moisturization, use of smoothing oils or other products, and reduction in processes or products which would further stress the hair, such as excessive brushing and heat styling.
[edit] “Perms” and chemical straightening
Perms and relaxation using relaxer or thermal reconditioning involve chemical alteration of the internal structure of the hair in order to affect its curliness or straightness. Most guidelines regarding hair coloring also apply to these procedures; your stylist should know about your history of hair treatments, and you may need to take special care with your hair after a procedure to avoid breakage or further damage.
Hair that has been subjected to the use of a permanent is weaker due to the application of chemicals, and should be treated gently and with greater care than hair that isn't chemically altered.
[edit] Environmental factors
[edit] Water quality
Minerals in water can affect hair.
Calcium causes hair to feel dry and lack shine and volume. It can prevent the proper processing of color, highlights, perms or relaxer/straighteners and can cause a perm to appear relaxed. Calcium builds up on the scalp causing flaking of the scalp, giving the appearance of dandruff. Calcium can choke the hair at the mouth of the follicle causing the hair to break off, then coating the scalp, blocking further new hair growth.
Iron can cause water to have a red or rusty hue. Iron leaves hair feeling dry, brittle and weighted down. It causes lack of shine and can cause dark hair to tint darker and blonde hair to turn orange. Iron can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color, highlights, and relaxers/straighteners
Copper discolors hair causing blonde hair to turn green and dark hair to tint darker. Copper can weigh hair down and cause dryness, and can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color, highlights, and relaxers/straighteners.
Magnesium causes hair to lack shine, feel dry, appear weighted down therefore lacking volume, and can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color, highlights, and relaxers/straighteners.
Silica causes many of the same effects on the hair as calcium. It causes hair to feel dry, lack volume, and can cause dandruff-like symptoms of flaking. Build-up of silica can choke the hair follicle causing hair to fall out.
Lead can cause the hair to feel dry. Lead can prevent the proper processing of perms, color, highlights, and relaxers/straighteners.
These minerals can be found in well water. Domestic well water is ground water. The source of ground water is rain passing through aquifers, which are layers of minerals. The acidity (pH below 7) of the rain increases the volume of minerals dissolved as the water passes through. The majority of ground (well) water is hard. The level of calcium that is found naturally from the ground determines the hardness of water. While calcium is the element that determines hardness of water, there are many other elements in well water that affect hair, scalp and skin. Well water is fine for drinking, but it can cause many problems for your hair, scalp and skin including drying, damaging, resistance to chemical processing (color/highlighting, perming or relaxing/straightening), discoloration, lack of body or shine, thinning, breaking, quickly fading color, or dry, itchy, flaky or inflamed scalp.
To improve the hair health and further prevent issues with dryness and buildup, consider installing a shower head filter that will remove the minerals found in most city waters. Examine the packaging the filter comes in to determine that the filter also removes chlorine or chloramine (combination of chlorine and ammonia). One of these is often added to city water supplies for purposes of sanitation and is necessary for the health of the community. However, hard water minerals and the sanitizing agent can also deposit in or on the hair, building up over time. The chemical and mineral content of water varies by geography. If using water from an unfiltered source, try to choose a water supply where the water has movement and flows, and does not possess any salt. Filtering water through very fine mesh cloth may help to remove larger deposits in the water. Many enjoy collecting rain water, although acid rain is an increasing issue in many parts of the world.
Treatment for well water and hard water conditions are available in a variety of products, such as demineralizing shampoos and conditionersand from products such as Malibu 2000’s Crystal Gel Treatment. Visiting a local salon and speaking with a stylist can help identify corrective treatment for well water users.
Those who swim in chlorinated or salt sea water may benefit from first wetting the hair entirely and then applying conditioner to completely swell the entire hair shaft. Ensuring that the hair is fully saturated will help prevent the hair from absorbing the chemicals or minerals found in these waters. Swimmers may also benefit from products on the market that remove chlorine after swimming in pool water.
[edit] Air quality
[edit] Special considerations for hair types
[edit] Children’s or superfine hair
Children’s hair is often a problem because it is supremely fine and may be difficult to care for because of its nearly downy softness and fluffiness. Up until the age of 7-10, this fine hair will remain about the head.
Children’s hair is different from adult hair in texture, density, and likely also color, body and so on. Hair's traits will change over time as humans physically develop, and even age. Like the rest of the human body, (example, teeth), hair has different stages of development spanning the full lifetime from birth to death.
It is best to detangle hair before washing, especially if it is long. Use a wide tooth comb and begin from the bottom of the length, and work one's way up the length of hair. This concept is excellent for adult hair as well.
Choose a mild shampoo, or dilute the shampoo in a bit of water to reduce the strength. Lather the shampoo in the palm of a hand before applying. A dime size of shampoo should be sufficient. Do not pile or overly agitate the hair in swirly circles about the head inciting tangles. Instead try to wash the hair in the direction the hair falls. Most children’s hair is not overly thick either so this is easier to follow. The head and hair can almost be patted with shampoo.
If the child is somewhat older, and possesses any length, use a conditioner that is lightweight on the hair length only, not the scalp skin. A trick to aide with detangling, and this is particularly suitable for curly hair, is to coat the hair length in conditioner, use the power of the shower water to help with detangling, and then repetitively dip the wide tooth plastic comb in conditioner and detangle a bit this way. Fine hair will be weighted down by an overly heavy and/or viscous substance. Avoid placing conditioner on the scalp skin, if at all possible.
To detangle delicate hair after it has been washed, use a very wide tooth comb, not a brush. Consider the option of waiting for hair to partially dry by air such that the hair is merely damp and not sopping wet. There are on the market any variety of detangling sprays that parents can use that will help tremendously with the detangling process, making it more enjoyable for both parent and child. These often contain agents that greatly increase slip.
Whenever possible, consider gentle braiding or ponytailing, or somehow organizing the hair in a contained format to prevent hurtful detangling needs later on in the day. The same holds true of sleeping. Consider slippery fabrics for the pillowcase. Any length can be bound in pigtail braids that are not tightly pulled from the head. Position the start point of such braids such that the child will not be sleeping on a lump. This is a possible option at later ages for both sleep and playground. While they will become loosened, at least detangling needs and matting are minimized. Always blot hair dry; do not rub the hair and again incite tangles this way. There exist on the market microfiber towels that really absorb wetness quickly. Many concepts for adult hair care still apply with children’s hair.
Many children are afraid of dunking their head in water and this can make it difficult for parents to teach their children to wash their own hair. Never force a child’s head under the water entirely. Instead, consider installing a hand held shower in the bathing area so that water can be specifically directed. (This is not usually expensive or difficult, even for single parents. All that’s required is a diverter piece on the shower head arm. This can be installed in dwellings such as apartments with ease and removed just as easily when one ceases tenancy.) Some children that are younger will really appreciate having a hand towel handy to wipe their eyes as it helps them feel in control. Leaning forward may be more frightening to the child, so instead, work so the child tilts their head back with parental hand support. Use cups of water, if a hand held shower is impossible, to aim the flow of water on the hair and away from the face. Some children will be comfortable with the idea of leaning back in a bathtub. If a parent has the time, setting up a mock salon situation at a sink can be an alternative: a chair that’s high enough and maybe some pillows so the child’s head leans back comfortably.
[edit] Curly hair
Curly hair should generally not be brushed or combed once the hair begins to dry. This will result in the individual hairs each drying separately, curling up, and resulting in a poofy or frizzy look. It is best to ensure the hair is detangled while still rinsing under water. Once the wash is over, simply scrunch the hair in the palms of the hand to help form the curl in grouped locks. Use a leave-in conditioner to impart moisture and avoid flatness to some degree. Those with more body/curl have a harder time holding on to moisture since the cuticle is normally somewhat open.
[edit] Very curly hair
Very curly hair (such as African hair) requires unique care of its own. In particular, one should usually not brush this hair type since it can break easily. It is best to use a pick or one-toothed comb to lift this hair type into its desired shape.
It is best to really moisturize this hair type. This likely includes sleeping in a cap that helps to hold on to moisture and prevent any breakage.
Those who relax this hair type should follow recommended care especially in the arena of applying color (not in the same session or in close proximity to this procedure), and also particularly with moisturizing products. Indeed, many other hair types will benefit from some of the practices that this very curly hair type follows. Leave in conditioners are highly beneficial for this hair type, and often oils are used as well, such as Jojoba oil which is a carrier oil and most closely mimics sebum. (Do not use essential oils -- that is, oils that have an aroma.)
Hair that is very curly often does not require detangling. Indeed, the best way to lock in the beauty of such curl is to simply crunch the hair in the palms of the hands with a moisturizing conditioner and leave in conditioner so the curl pattern remains intact. Do nothing that separates hair strands from groupings of strands that are coiled as this can cause major problems commonly referred to as poof or frizz. (Brushing, for example, will separate the coiled curls from their grouped and locked together)
[edit] Long hair
Whenever one works around anything that can make hair lengths fan (such as opening oven doors, any machine with a motor (whether the motor itself is exposed or not such as lathes, drill presses, grinders, car engines, household fans), anything with heat (such as torches, welding equipment, jeweler tools, lighting pilot lights, BBQs) or any recreational vehicle (such as go-karts, and with unusually longer lengths, perhaps even bicycles), it is best to contain the hair in a reliable manner to prevent the hair being caught up in the equipment which could potentially result in major injury, including scalping. Hair should be drawn back in a reliable method to prevent falling or slipping such that any formerly contained hair could fall out in whole, or in part, and place one at risk. This may well mean that a ponytail for hair length is insufficient as hair fringe and bangs may remain vulnerable, and hair, during the course of a day can fall out. Ponytailed hair means it’s only bound at one point yet the remaining length is loose hair which has a wide circumference it can still fall. Ponytailed hair can still fall forward if one is leaning over, or for example, in a kitchen with an open gas flame, can still fan out when one turns and the air flow from body movement can cause a pulse in the flame to a higher level and singe some hair. Same holds true with oven doors: ponytailed hair can fall forward on to hot surfaces when leaning over and get singed. Care around any flame should be taken including proximity to tools for lighting cigarettes and cigars. Often it is best to not only bind the hair; but also, position the hair inside a cap or bandanna such that the full head of hair is completely covered. This scenario is good not only around machinery but may well be a good idea in instances of working outdoors all day long, or when working in areas where fine dust and particulate matter is swirling about (paint, spraying, powder coating, laying tar) to prevent the hair being caked with such particles. Many industries have requirements for hair being contained to prevent worker injury. This likely includes those working in food services, construction, utilities, and machine shops of various sorts. Anytime one works in an area that can move the air flow, hair should be bound for safety of the person as hair is a very light weight substance and responds to the slightest of breezes. Of course, many professions do require containing the hair for reasons of public health, and a prime example is the food industry. Many sports may require similar constraints for reasons of safety to keep hair out of eyes and blocking one's view, and to prevent being caught in sports equipment or trees and shrubs, or matted hair in severe weather conditions or water. This would include not allowing hair to fly loose on the backs of motorcycles and open-topped sports cars for longer tresses.
[edit] Delicate skin
Scalp skin of babies and the elderly are similar in that the sebaceous gland production is less because of less hormones in the body. As part of most hair follicles, there is a sebaceous gland that secretes sebum, a waxy ester, which helps to maintain the acid mantle (scalp skin health/balance) and provide a coating on the skin that keeps it supple and moist. It is not oil, even though we refer to the look of this when it builds too much as oily or greasy. When the sebum builds overly, it is time to wash the hair, generally somewhere between every other day to every third day for average adults. Very elderly may be able to wait closer to depending on sebum production and volume of hair. Teenagers, because of hormones, often require daily washing of the hair. However most adults can wait a day or so between washing since some sebum is necessary to maintain health of the scalp skin. Sebum also imparts a protective coating to hair strands. Daily washing will remove the sebum daily and incite, potentially, an increase in sebum production since the skin has mechanisms for discerning the scalp skin is lacking sufficient moisture. However, in forms of scalp disorders, this may not be the case. For babies and elderly, the sebaceous gland production is not at peak and so daily washing is not typically necessary. If daily washing is conducted this can actually lead to dry, itchy scalp skin scenarios that are irritating. Note that not all itchy scalps are related to overly dry scalp skin. In point of fact, the opposite can be true: too much sebum (for example a response to an infection of the hair follicles). Babies and elderly should use shampoos that are quite mild to the skin. In instances of cradle cap, a type of dermatitis distantly related to dandruff, follow the doctor’s instructions for care. Hair texture changes every seven years, with the changing levels of hormones produced.
[edit] Impacts of health on hair – see Hair
[edit] Treatment of damage
[edit] Split ends
Split ends happen when the protective cuticle has been stripped away from the ends of hair fibers.
Trichoptilosis is a longitudinal splitting of the hair fiber, better known as split ends. Any chemical or physical trauma that weathers the hair may eventually lead to split ends. Typically, the damaged hair fiber splits into two or three strands and the split may be two to three centimeters in length. Split ends are most often observed in long hair but also occur in short hair that is not in good condition.
As hair grows, the natural protective oils of the scalp can fail to reach the ends of the hair. The ends are considered old once they reach about 10 centimeters since they have had long exposure to the sun, gone through many shampoos and may have been overheated by hair dryers and hot irons. This all results in dry, brittle ends which are prone to splitting. Infrequent trims and lack of hydrating treatments can intensify this condition.
The most immediate solution for split ends is to cut them off. However, this is not always acceptable due to the destructive nature of the treatment. However, if nothing is done about split ends, the hair will naturally get shorter and either drop off or continue to split backwards toward the scalp faster than the rate of growth.
[edit] Breakage and other damage
When hair is damaged, the only solution is to cut it and use a hydrating treatment to protect the new ends. This may be accomplished by cutting hair from the length, or by examining individual sections of hair and cutting off only the hairs that contain damage. The latter process is more time-consuming, but allows for the retention of length. Splits are not the only kinds of damage. There are white dots (where the cuticle has burst, and the hair bends at a 90 degree angle); there are splits that have yet to break apart in the traditional Y but if the hair is held between the two hands and pushed together from either end, the hole will reveal itself. Such damage can occur anywhere in the hair and in quality hair care activities will tend to be only on the tips of hairs or on the ends of length for the most part, it can also be on the youngest hair, close to the scalp -- in short, anywhere. Do not split the hair up the shaft while it's on the head and then leave the hair intact on the head. This can result in damaging other fellow hairs and further contributes to tangle issues as this is now a stressed hair (hair that has been stretched beyond its elasticity).
[edit] Infections and skin disorders
When hair behaves in an unusual way, or a scalp skin disorder arises, it is often necessary to visit not only a qualified physician, but sometimes a dermatologist, or a trichologist. Conditions that require this type of professional help include, but are not limited to, forms of alopecia, hair pulling/picking, hair that sticks straight out, black dots on the hair, and rashes or burns resulting from chemical processes.
There are a number of disorders that are particular to the scalp. Symptoms may include:
- bumps,
- lumps,
- chafes,
- weeping or bleeding,
- clumpy flakes that do not easily slough off the scalp skin,
- caking skin buildup that appears white or another color than one's natural skin tone,
- excessive itchiness that doesn't go away with a few hair wash, redness of scalp skin,
- patches of thinning,
- clumps of hair falling out,
- shedding,
- pus-like drainage,
- abnormal odor,
- dandruff
Any of these symptoms may indicate a need for professional assistance from a dermatologist or trichologist for diagnosis.
Scalp skin can suffer from infestations of mites, lice, infections of the follicles or fungus. There could be allergic reactions to ingredients in chemical preparations applied to the hair, even ingredients from shampoo or conditioners. Common concerns surrounding dandruff (often associated with excessive sebum); psoriasis, eczema, or seborrheic dermatitus.
An odor that persists for a few weeks despite regular hair washing may be an indication of a health problem on the scalp skin.
Photographs over the internet can be difficult to diagnose. Not all flakes are dandruff. For example, some can merely be product buildup on the scalp skin. This could result from the common practice of applying conditioner to scalp skin without washing. This would dry upon the scalp skin and flake off, appearing like dandruff and even causing itchiness, but have no health effects whatsoever.
Although rapid detection and treatment of scalp disease can prevent permanent conditions such as thinning, hair loss, shedding, or death of hair follicles, regular hygiene is still the most effective method of preventing scalp disease.
[edit] Hormone changes and imbalances
There are various reasons for hair loss, most commonly hormonal issues. Fluctuations in hormones will often show in the hair. Not all hair loss is related to what is known as male pattern baldness, and indeed, women can suffer from baldness just as men do. This includes women experiencing what's referred to as male pattern baldness. There exist on the markets formulas for addressing this specific cause of lack of hair growth yet typically they require around three months of consistence use for results to begin to appear. Cessation may also mean that gained growth may dissipate.
Particularly among women, thyroid disease is one of the more under-diagnosed health concerns. It's very important to see a medical professional when hair falls out in clumps. This is one symptom of a set of symptoms that may indicate a thyroid concern. The good news is that in many gynecological exams a blood screen for thyroid is now a common protocol. Although this entry regarding hair care is not about thyroid, it is worth mentioning since it's not as commonly known by the general population that thyroid often shows up first in the behavior of the hair.
During pregnancy and breast feeding, the normal and natural shedding process is typically suspended (starting around month three because it takes a while for the body to recognize and reset for the hormonal shifts the body goes through) for the period of gestation and extended longer if one breast feeds (this includes pumping for breast milk). Upon cessation of either of these, it typically takes around two months for the hormones to shift again to the normal hormonal settings, and hair shedding can increase exponentially, for approximately 3-6 months until hair returns to its normal volume. It is commonly noticed that hair seems thicker and shinier, even, during pregnancy and breast feeding in response to the influx of shifting hormones. If excess shedding continues for much longer than six months, seek the counsel of a qualified physician. It is not unusual also for hair color to change, or hair structure to change (e.g., straighter hair, curlier hair). These changes can occur more often than people may realize yet isn't often reported.
Despite popular opinion, there is no medical evidence that permanents are ineffective during pregnancy.
[edit] General hair loss
Those who suffer from hair loss in instances of cancer care will need to consult with their medical provider to examine the idea of a purchase of a wig. There are many outlets now that provide options of human hair and synthetic hair wigs. Synthetic wigs tend to be easier to maintain for a longer duration. Often, though, the hair, in time, will grow back so soft hats and scarves are often preferred for delicate skin that has been through so much. Those who note excessive shedding inexplicably, or especially falling out in clumps, should seek the counsel of a physician to rule out any issues with hormones and thyroid, among other possibilities. Hair thinning can be experienced even in instances of eczema, psoriasis, and when dandruff has advanced and may be coupled with a bacterial infection of the hair follicles.
Some choose to shave their hair off entirely, while still others may have an illness (such as a form of cancer--note that not every form of cancer or cancer treatment necessarily means one will lose their hair. A qualified physician should be able to advise on this point.) that caused hair loss or lead to a decision to shave the head. In this instance care of the scalp skin must be attended to and may include protection when exposing the skin to the sun (such as wearing a soft hat or scarf, and applying sunscreen), and proper maintenance of a shaved head with moisturizing products and better quality shaving tools.
[edit] Preventative action – nutrition
As stated earlier, major factors for healthy hair of any type remains both genetics and health. A well understood factor to optimum health is nutrition, and this element remains true for hair health. The living part of hair is under the scalp skin where the hair root is housed in the hair follicle. The entire follicle and root are fed by a vein, and blood carries nutrients to the follicle/root. Any time an individual has any kind of health concern from stress, trauma, medications of various sorts, chronic medical conditions or medical conditions that come and then wane, heavy metals in waters and food, smoking etc. these and more can affect the hair, its growth, and its appearance.
If one wants to improve their hair health, one thing to improve is what one eats. Generally, eating a full diet that contains protein, fruits, vegetables, grains, and even an appropriate amount of fat is important (several vitamins and minerals require fat in order to be delivered or absorbed by the body). Any deficiency will typically show first in the hair, perhaps even before it is diagnosed. For example, even a mild case of anemia can cause shedding and hair loss. Vitamins that are good for hair include the B complex, especially biotin.
When the body is under strain, it reprioritizes its processes. For example, the vital organs will be attended to first, meaning that healthy, oxygenated blood may not feed into the hair follicle, resulting in less healthy hair or a decline in growth rate. While not all hair growth issues stem from malnutrition, it is a valuable symptom in diagnosis.
Scalp hair grows, on average, at a rate of about half an inch per month, and shampoos or vitamins have not been shown to noticeably change this rate. Hair growth rate also depends upon what phase in the cycle of hair growth one is actually in; there are three phases. The speed of hair growth varies based upon genetics, gender, age, hormones, and may be reduced by nutrient deficiency (i.e., anorexia, anemia, zinc deficiency) and hormonal fluctuations (i.e., menopause, polycystic ovaries, thyroid disease).
[edit] References
- ^ [1]
- ^ The World of Hair, A Scientific Companion by Dr. John Gray, Macmillan Press Limited, 1977, pp. 23-24.
