Galen Rowell
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| Galen Avery Rowell | |
| Born | August 23, 1940 Oakland, California |
|---|---|
| Died | August 11, 2002 Bishop, California |
| Nationality | American |
| Occupation | Photographer, Climber |
| Spouse | Barbara Cushman Rowell |
| Children | Nicole Ryan, "Tony" Edward Anthony Rowell |
| Website http://www.mountainlight.com/ |
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Galen Avery Rowell (August 23, 1940 – August 11, 2002) was a noted wilderness photographer and climber. Born in Oakland, California, he became a full-time photographer in 1972.
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[edit] Biography
Rowell was introduced to wilderness at a very young age, and began climbing mountains at the age of ten. For the next fifty-two years, he climbed mountains and explored the wilderness. He began taking pictures on excursions into the wild so he could share his experiences with friends and family. After graduating from Berkeley High School, he stayed in Berkeley to study physics at the University of California but dropped out after four years to pursue his love of climbing. He was never formally trained as a photographer.
In 1972, Rowell sold his small automotive business and became a full-time photographer. Within a year, he had completed his first major assignment; a cover story for National Geographic. The cover story, originally initiated by an invitation from fellow photographer Dewitt Jones to help him on an assignment, came about when Jones was called away and Rowell suggested and made a Yosemite National Park ascent and documented it on his own. When National Geographic got the pictures, they decided to do a story separate from Jones' and thus Rowell got his start. He pioneered a new kind of photography in which he was not merely an observer, but rather he considered himself a participant in the scenes that he photographed — he considered the landscape part of the adventure, and the adventure part of the landscape. From 1968 on, he used 35mm Nikon cameras and lenses almost exclusively for their portability. His main media choice was slide film, beginning with Kodachrome in the 70's and 80's and Velvia following its introduction in 1990.
Rowell, his wife Barbara Cushman Rowell, pilot Tom Reid, and Reid's friend Carol McAffee, were killed in a plane crash near the Inyo County Airport in Bishop, California on the 11th of August, 2002. They were returning from a photography workshop in Alaska.
[edit] Climbing and adventuring accomplishments
- More than 100 first ascents of technical climbs in the Sierra Nevada
- First one-day ascent of Denali (on which his camera froze)
- First ski circumnavigation of Denali
- First one-day ascent of Kilimanjaro
- First ascent of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan's Karakoram Himalaya
- First ascent of the Amne Machin peak in 1981 with Harold Knutsen and Kim Schmitz, reporting its true altitude at 20,610 feet.
- First ascent of Cholatse, the final major peak climbed in the Everest region
- First ascents of numerous lesser-known but challenging peaks around the world, including the Andes, Alaska, Pakistan's Karakoram Himalaya, Tibet, Nepal, China, Greenland, etc.
- Oldest person to climb Yosemite's El Capitan in one day at age 57
[edit] Career and writings
He was very well-known as a photographer, and pioneered the art of adventure photography: Ansel Adams considered Rowell to be his most likely successor, and he was often referred to as the Ansel Adams of color photography.[citation needed] He won the Ansel Adams award for wilderness photography in 1984. He had numerous photographic assignments for Life, National Geographic Magazine, Outdoor Photographer, and various other publications. Rowell was also a highly regarded writer on subjects ranging from photography, humanitarian and environmental issues, human visual cognition, and mountaineering, publishing numerous magazine articles and eighteen books in his lifetime. His In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods (1977) is considered a classic of mountaineering literature, and his 1986 book Mountain Light: In Search of the Dynamic Landscape is one of the best selling how-to photo books of all time. Also an energetic advocate for the causes in which he believed, Rowell served on multiple advisory and directors' boards for organizations ranging from the Committee of 100 for Tibet to the World Wildlife Fund.
Rowell was particularly keen on seeking out and photographing optical phenomena in the natural world. He referred to his landscape photographs as “dynamic landscapes,” due to both the fast-changing nature of light and conditions and his energetic pursuit of the best camera position at the optimal moment. Rowell wrote about the quest for such images in his books Mountain Light, Galen Rowell's Vision, and Inner Game of Outdoor Photography.
A major retrospective book on his life, career, and impact on the various worlds he touched has been published by Sierra Club books: Galen Rowell: A Retrospective (ISBN 1578051150).
Rowell's work is on display at the Mountain Light Gallery, in the Eastern Sierra Nevada town of Bishop, California.
