Fred Nicole

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Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber, notable for his numerous cutting edge first ascents. Nicole was the first climber to open a problem with the bouldering grades 8B, 8B+ and 8C.

Like many elite rock climbers, Nicole refuses to grade his own climbs, suggesting that subjectivity and variation in climbing style make it too difficult to reliably grade problems.


Notable ascents:

  • les Danse des Balrogs 8B (The world's first), Branson, Switzerland
  • Radja 8B+ (the world's first), Branson, Switzerland
  • Dreamtime. Cresciano, Switzerland. (8B+/V14) This boulder was once considered 8C before it was chipped and downgraded to 8B+.
  • Slashface 8B+, Hueco Tanks, USA
  • Fatman sit-start 8B, Fontainebleau, France
  • Pierre Philosophale 8B, Fontainebleau, France
  • Karma 8A+, Fontainebleau, France
  • Hale Bopp, 7C+, Fontainebleau, France
  • Terre de Siene, 8B+/V14, Hueco Tanks, TX
  • Terremer, V15/16?, Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas, USA - link-up of Diaphanous Sea and Terre de Siene
  • El Techo de los Tres B, 8B/+, Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas, USA
  • Entlinge, V15/16?, Switzerland
  • Amandla, V15/16?, South Africa
  • Repeated Witness the Fitness in The Ozarks, Arkansas on December,23 2006. FA by Chris Sharma.
  • Bain de Sang, 9a in Saint Loup, Switzerland (route, FA on 1993-09-01). It is the world's third 9a, after Action Directe (FA in 1991 by Wolfgang Gullich) and Om (FA in 1992 by Alexander Huber) Some have surmised that Bain de Sang is more likely 8c+. E.g., Iker Pou, who has repeated both routes, stated that Bain de Sang is a grade easier than the benchmark 9a Action Directe. Also, see Dave Graham. Fred Nicole and his brother Francois Nicole both assert that "Bain de sang" has been 'altered' after their respective first and second ascents, which may be why the grade has been disputed after subsequent repeats.
  • Elfe, 8c+ in Grimsel, Switzerland (route, FA on 1997-03-01).

[edit] Trivia

  • Fred Nicole has claimed in interview that he doesn't think that he could do a single one arm chin-up, although he can be seen in Masters of Stone III performing a one-arm, pinkie chin-up.
  • Nicole has jokingly asserted that Burger King Whoppers are his favorite food.
  • Hueco Tanks is reputedly Nicole's favorite bouldering site, according to an assertion of his in 1990. In 2005, he opened new problems in this area that are thought to have a difficulty of V15 or harder (Terremer).

[edit] External links