Exfoliation (cosmetology)

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This article is about the cosmetic technique, for other uses see Exfoliation.

Cross-section of all skin layers.

Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for ages to help maintain the skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of a facial and during body treatments at spas.^[1] People of non-caucasian descent generally see better results from exfoliation, due to their faster skin production.^[2] It is recommended to maintain healthy skin at least twice a week, with a daily regimen recommended during the winter months.^[3]

1 History
2 Importance
3 Types
- 3.1 Mechanical
- 3.2 Chemical
4 Promotion
5 Disadvantages
6 See Also
7 References

[edit] History

Credit is given to the ancient Egyptians for the practice of exfoliation.^[4]^[5] In the Middle Ages, wine was used as a chemical exfoliant, with tartaric acid as the active agent.^[4] In Asia, the practice of exfoliation started hundreds of years ago.^[6]

[edit] Importance

Main article: Skin care

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic.^[7] During their 30 day journey,^[7] they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. During aging, and after menopause,^[8] the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. It is considered the first step in cleaning the face, followed by washing with a hypoallergenic soap, then moisturizing. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave.^[9] It is possible to overly exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.^[1] Dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.^[10]

[edit] Types

Exfoliation is achieved through either mechanical or chemical means.

[edit] Mechanical

This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive.^[1] Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges, loofahs, and brushes.^[9]^[11] Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. ^[12]

[edit] Chemical

Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a dermatologist, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away.^[1] This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.^[13]

[edit] Promotion

In popular media, exfoliants are advertised as treatments which promote beauty, youthful appearance, or health.^[9]

[edit] Disadvantages

The greatest disadvantage to exfoliation is the high price of some of the products and methods used to achieve it.^[14] Exfoliation will lead to some initial redness to the skin. Near the end of chemical peels, the skin will frost, with colors varying from a bright white to gray on the skin surface.^[4]

Plastic beads often used as exfoliants do not biodegrade. They are washed into rivers, and then the oceans, where they remain for a very long time. While superficially pretty (they are often referred to as "mermaid's tears") they amplify up food chains, and will kill any animal that ingests enough to block its digestive tract.^[15]