Dr. Martens

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Pair of classic black leather Dr. Martens boots, with distinctive yellow stitching around sole.
Pair of classic black leather Dr. Martens boots, with distinctive yellow stitching around sole.

Dr. Martens is a footwear, clothing and accessories brand, and the footwear products are most often known as Doc Martens, Docs or DMs. The footwear is distinct because of its air-cushioned sole (dubbed Bouncing Soles), developed by Dr. Klaus Maertens of Germany. The boots and shoes have been especially popular among skinheads, punks and members of a few other youth subcultures.

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Cherry Red and Black 14-hole Dr.Martens boots
Cherry Red and Black 14-hole Dr.Martens boots

Klaus Maertens was a doctor in the German army during World War II. While on leave in 1945, he injured his ankle while skiing in the Bavarian Alps. He found that his standard-issue army boots were too uncomfortable on his injured foot. While recuperating, he designed improvements to the boots, with soft leather, and air-padded soles. When the war ended and some Germans looted valuables from their own cities, Maertens took leather from a cobbler's shop. With that leather he made himself a pair of boots with air-cushioned soles.

Maertens didn't have much luck selling his shoes until he met up with an old university friend, Dr. Herbert Funck, in Munich in 1947. Funck was intrigued by the new shoe design, and the two went into business that year in Seeshaupt, Germany, using discarded rubber from Luftwaffe airfields. The comfortable and durable soles were a big hit with housewives; 80 percent of sales in the first decade were to women over the age of 40.

Sales had grown so much by 1952 that they opened a factory in Munich. In 1959, the company had grown large enough that Maertens and Funck looked at marketing the footwear internationally. Almost immediately, British shoe manufacturer R. Griggs Group Ltd. bought patent rights to manufacture the shoes in the United Kingdom. Griggs anglicized the name, slightly re-shaped the heel to make them fit better, added the trademark yellow stitching, and trademarked the soles as AirWair.

The first Dr. Martens boots in the United Kingdom came out on April 1, 1960; with an eight-eyelet, cherry-red, Nappa leather design. They were popular among workers such as postmen, police officers and factory workers. By the late 1960s, skinheads started wearing Dr. Martens boots. By the late 1970s, Dr. Martens boots were popular among some British punk rock and New Wave musicians, and soon many punk fans were wearing them. The boots and shoes then became popular among other youth subcultures. Originally Dr. Martens were made by a number of shoe manufacturers in the Northamptonshire area, as long as they passed quality standards. At least one of these branched out later to make their own boots e.g.Tredair brand.

Dr. Martens sponsored West Ham United from 1998 to 2003. When a new main stand was built at Upton Park in 2001, the stand was named the 'Dr. Martens Stand' in recognition of the sponsorship link. In the 2000s, Dr. Martens were sold exclusively under the AirWair name, and came in dozens of different styles, including conventional black shoes, sandals and steel-toed boots.

On 1 April 2003, under pressure from declining sales, the Dr. Martens company ceased all production in the United Kingdom[1], with production moved to China and Thailand. With this change also came the end of the company's vegan-friendly non-leather products, which were produced since January, 2000. The company has begun producing footwear again in England, in the Cobbs Lane Factory in Wollaston. These products, which the company advertises as being made to the original specs, can be purchased at the Dr. Martens USA website.[2]

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