Domestic rabbit

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This article is about domesticated European rabbits. For information on the wild variety, see European Rabbit. For general information on all rabbit species, see Rabbit.
Domestic Rabbit

Conservation status
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Lagomorpha
Family: Leporidae
Genus: Oryctolagus
Lilljeborg, 1873
Species: O. cuniculus
Binomial name
Oryctolagus cuniculus
(Linnaeus, 1758)

A domestic rabbit is any of the several varieties of European rabbit that has been domesticated

Male rabbits are called bucks; females are called does. An older term for an adult rabbit is coney (derived from the Dutch word konijn), while rabbit referred only to the young animals.[2] More recently, the term kit or kitten has been used to refer to a young rabbit. A young hare is called a leveret; this term is sometimes informally applied to a young rabbit as well.

Contents

[edit] History

Rabbits kept in battery cages for scientific experimentation
Rabbits kept in battery cages for scientific experimentation

Phoenician sailors visiting the coast of Spain circa 1100 B.C.E., mistaking the European rabbit for a species from their homeland, gave it the name i-shepan-ham. A corruption of this name, used by the Romans, became the Latin name for Spain, Hispania.[citation needed] In Rome rabbits were raised in large walled colonies. These captive rabbits were raised as food and permitted to interbreed at will.[citation needed]

Selective breeding of rabbits began in the Middle Ages, when they were first treated as domesticated farm animals. By the 1500s, several new breeds of different colors and sizes were being recorded.

In the 1800s, as animal fancy in general began to emerge, rabbit fanciers began to attend rabbit shows in Western Europe and the United States. Breeds were created and modified for the purpose of exhibition, a departure from the breeds that had been created for food, fur, or wool. The rabbit's emergence as a household pet began during the Victorian era. The domestic rabbit continues to be popular as a show animal and pet. Rabbit shows occur in many places and are sanctioned in Canada and the United States by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association (ARBA).

Rabbits have and continue to be used in laboratory work such as production of antibodies for life-saving vaccines and research of human male reproductive system toxicology. The Environmental Health Perspective, published by the National Institute of Health, states, "The rabbit [is] an extremely valuable model for studying the effects of chemicals or other stimuli on the male reproductive system." According to the Humane Society of the United States, rabbits are also used extensively in the study of bronchial asthma, stroke prevention treatments, cystic fibrosis, diabetes, and cancer. Animal rights activists have opposed animal experimentation for non-medical purposes, such as the testing of cosmetic and cleaning products, which has resulted in decreased the use of rabbits in these areas.[citation needed]

[edit] Breeds

Holland Lop with black patches on white ("broken")
Holland Lop with black patches on white ("broken")
Main article: List of rabbit breeds

There are many different breeds of domestic rabbit, including the English Angora, Dwarf Hotot, Chinchilla, Dutch, Flemish Giant, Himalayan, Netherland Dwarf, Holland Lop, Silver, Silver fox, English spot, Havana, Florida White, New Zealand, Rex, Polish, Jersey Wooly, Satin, and Mini Lop. As with breeds of dogs, rabbit breeds were generally created by humans at different times for different purposes and vary in physical characteristics, care requirements, and temperaments just as the various dog breeds do. There are over 45 rabbit breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association in the United States. There are many more breeds of rabbits worldwide.

[edit] Diet

The diet of a domestic rabbit varies depending on the purpose it is kept for. The most important component of a pet rabbit's diet is hay. Hay is the base of pelleted feeds. In addition to pelleted feeds, Timothy hay, orchard grass hay, or an oat hay blend are a necessary and very important part of a rabbit's diet. These kinds of hays provides more fiber than other types of hays. Fresh water in clean bowls or water bottles must be available to rabbits at all times. When a rabbit's sensitive digestive system is stable after weaning, vegetables and some fruits may be introduced safely if they are introduced slowly and cautiously. Other good treats for rabbits are uncooked, old-fashioned rolled oats and small amounts of black oil sunflower seeds. Overfeeding of treats such as apples, bananas, carrots and other sugary foods can lead to obesity or GI stasis, a condition that can be fatal if not treated.

[edit] Rabbits as pets

See also: House rabbit

Rabbits have been kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention. Rabbits kept indoors with proper care can expect to live between 9 to 12 years.[3] Rabbits are especially popular as pets during Easter, due to their association with the holiday. However, animal shelters that accept rabbits often complain that during the weeks and months following Easter, there is a rise of unwanted and neglected rabbits that were bought on impulse or as Easter "gifts", especially for children.[4]

House rabbit organizations warn that a rabbit does not make a good pet for small children because they do not know how to stay quiet, calm, and gentle around the rabbit. As prey animals, rabbits are alert, timid creatures that startle easily. They have fragile bones, especially in their backs, that require support on the belly and bottom when picked up. A scared bunny may bite or scratch a child holding it in a precarious grip and be dropped, seriously injuring the animal, or kick hard enough to fracture or break their own backs. Children 10 years old and older tend to have the maturity and skill required to care for a rabbit.[citation needed]

[edit] Socialization with other rabbits

Rabbits are social animals. The process of introducing two rabbits in a common space is called bonding. Until two rabbits are bonded, they tend to fight with each other. Fighting is often the result of territoriality or sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both genders upon other rabbits of either gender; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cage mate. Bonding rabbits requires additional care to protect against unwanted pregnancy and the spread of disease or parasites.

[edit] Acquiring a rabbit

There are many rescue groups, humane societies, and local city animal shelters and individuals that have rabbits available for adoption, typically for a small fee. Additionally, reputable breeders and some pet stores sell rabbits. Pet stores are often considered the least preferable place to acquire a new rabbit as the rabbit's history is unknown, and many come from pet farms with poor conditions. Some stores, however, do document the history of their stock, which can be used to verify their environmental conditions.

[edit] Training and play

Rabbits can be taught to follow voice commands much like a dog or cat, but they can also be trained to recognize different patterns of the voice. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more than the words.[citation needed] Rabbits can be very playful and enjoy games and toys. Toys keep a rabbit from becoming bored or frustrated. Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although some can be encouraged not to chew dangerous or valuable items by offering alternatives such as chew toys.[5] Some pet rabbit owners prevent access to electrical wires by blocking them off or using cord covers, such as corrugated tubing available at hardware stores.

[edit] Socialization with other animals

Rabbits often get along well with declawed house cats, although care should be used when introducing these natural adversaries.

Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While there is varied success with this technique, some have recommended that rabbits should not be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs.[6] A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig, leading to severe distress, injury, or even death for the guinea pig.[citation needed] Occasionally an unneutered male may attempt to mate with a guinea pig and injure it.[citation needed] Rabbits and guinea pigs also have differing nutritional requirements and therefore require separate foods. Despite formerly proposed social compatibility and their mutual status as small herbivores, rabbits and guinea pigs do in fact have very different social signals and activities. For instance, guinea pigs generally do not practice social grooming.[citation needed] Additionally, rabbits often harbour Bordatella bacteria, which is lethal to guinea pigs should they become infected.[citation needed]

[edit] Housing

Prior to the trend in keeping rabbits as house pets, most pet rabbits were kept outdoors in hutches.[citation needed] Today, a wide selection of indoor and outside housing choices are available designed just for rabbits..

Rabbits kept as pets indoors are often referred to as house rabbits; they live in homes with humans much as cats and dogs do. This helps human and pet form a close relationship. As with other pets, rabbits housed indoors are protected from outside predators, temperature extremes, and outdoor parasites. Accommodations can range from a large cage or pen to the free run of the home, depending upon the needs of the family and the personality and physical abilities of the rabbit(s).

When the proper protection from outdoor predators (such as dogs) is provided, rabbits can be safely housed outdoors in well situated runs, hutches, and rabbitries. A rabbitry is housing specifically made for raising rabbits mainly used by rabbit exhibitors (or fanciers) and other reputable breeders. A rabbitry may be a barn, shed, studio, or other safe enclosure. Many rabbitries have electricity, running water, rodent-safe storage for hay and food, a grooming area, and even dishwashers. Many reputable breeders have various temperature control mechanisms for their rabbitries such as electric air conditioning, heating, swamp coolers, or misting systems for cooling the air. Rabbitries range from the very simple to the very elaborate and may house anywhere from 3 to 300 rabbits depending on size and the goals and purposes of the breeder.

[edit] Commercial rabbits

[edit] Meat rabbits

Meat-type rabbits being raised as a supplementary food source during the Great Depression
Meat-type rabbits being raised as a supplementary food source during the Great Depression

Breeds such as the New Zealand and Californian are most frequently utilized for meat in commercial rabbitries. These breeds have efficient metabolisms and grow quickly; they are ready for slaughter by approximately 14 - 16 weeks of age.

Rabbit fryers are rabbits that are between 70 to 90 days of age and weighing between 3 to 5 lb (1 to 2 kg) live weight. Rabbit roasters are rabbits from 90 days to 6 months of age weighing between 5 to 8 lb (2 to 3.5 kg) live weight. Rabbit stewers are rabbits from 6 months on weighing over 8 lb live weight.

Any type of rabbit exhibiting "commercial" body type can be slaughtered for meat. Dark fryers (any other color but albino whites) are usually docked in price by packers because of the slightly darker tinge of the fryer (purely pink carcasses are preferred by consumers) and because the hide is harder to remove manually than the white albino fryers.

[edit] Wool rabbits

Rabbits such as the Angora, American Fuzzy Lop, and Jersey Wooly produce wool. However, since the American Fuzzy Lop and Jersey Wooly are both dwarf breeds, only the much larger Angora breeds such as the English Angora, Satin Angora, Giant Angora, and French Agoras are used for commercial wool production. Their long fur is sheared, combed, or plucked (gently pulling loose hairs from the body during molting) and then spun into yarn used to make a variety of products. Angora sweaters can be purchased in many clothing stores and is generally mixed with other types of wool. Rabbit wool, called Angora, is 5 times warmer than sheep's wool.

[edit] Animal testing rabbits

Rabbits have and continue to be used in laboratory work such as production of antibodies for vaccines and research of human male reproductive system toxicology. The Environmental Health Perspective, published by the National Institute of Health, states, "The rabbit [is] an extremely valuable model for studying the effects of chemicals or other stimuli on the male reproductive system."[citation needed] According to the Humane Society of the United States, rabbits are also used extensively in the study of bronchial asthma, stroke prevention treatments, cystic fibrosis, diabetes, and cancer.

Animal rights activists generally oppose animal experimentation for all purposes. However, strong protesting by activists against non-medical testing, such as the testing of cosmetic and cleaning products, has resulted in the decreased use of rabbits in these areas.[citation needed] However, the highly controversial Draize test is still used commonly on rabbits. Albino rabbits are used in eye irritancy tests such as the Draize because rabbits have less tear flow than other animals and the lack of eye pigment make the effects easier to visualize.

[edit] Outdoor housing

Outdoor housing for rabbits is ussually designed to provide protection from predators. It must provide protection from the elements in winter and keep them cool in summer heat. Whether housed indoors or out, all rabbits should be handled properly and often and provided enrichment items such as shelves, ramps, balls, or other toys. To protect from predators rabbit hutches should be situated in a fenced yard, shed, barn, or other enclosed structure,

Rabbits produce quantities of waste that can be measured in cubic yards per year. This waste is excellent for gardening and composting, and can be collected for these uses whether the rabbit is housed indoors or outdoors. An outdoor cage should be as large as possible, at least high enough for the rabbit to stand on its back legs without its head touching the ceiling. It should be large enough to enable the rabbit to take 4 or 5 hops along its length and/or width. Rabbits should be checked at least once each day for signs of parasites, such as ticks and botflies. The shelter may be heated in winter (although many rabbits can be kept outside with extra bedding even into temperatures below freezing) and should be shaded or otherwise appropriately cooled in summer. Rabbit keepers ensure that clean water is always available to the rabbit in hot weather to keep temperatures below 85 degrees. Large rabbits (such as the New Zealand breed) do fine in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Celsius/15 degrees Fahrenheit in a hutch with plenty of straw, if their needs for food and water are well met. Water bottles that become frozen in cold weather must be changed two or three times daily. Below -10 degrees Celsius/15 degrees Fahrenheit it is necessary to shelter all animals in a barn or basement or garage. Covering cages three quarters of the way with a blanket, several cages grouped together, can generate a great deal of heat. One rule of thumb is at least eight pounds of animal per cage. Even newborn rabbits do well in cold if they have sufficient nest and many siblings to snuggle with. They should stay with the mother for longer periods of time in the winter for warmth. Domesticated rabbits are most comfortable in temperatures between 10 to 21 degrees C (50 to 70 degrees F), and cannot endure temperatures above 32 degrees C (90 degrees F) without assistance such as fans, frozen water bottles, and deep shade.

Rabbits require clean environments and all housing should be cleaned regularly to ensure that no build-up of feces or urine occurs. Rabbits are often raised in cages made entirely of wire which are self cleaning, allowing the urine and droppings to fall through the floor. These rabbits are often provided with sitting boards or mats made of plywood, large ceramic tiles, or smooth slotted mats made of flexible but hard pvc for rabbits to rest upon. Wire bottom floors allow rabbit droppings to be quickly and easily collected without disturbing the rabbit. Rabbit droppings are often left in beds with red worms to create compost, added to compost bins for enrichment of the compost, or applied directly to a garden as a "cool" fertilizer that will not burn plants. Wire cages are easier to clean and sanitize than wooden hutches which may not provide adequate protection from the elements and predators as housing rabbits in a rabbit barn or shed called a rabbitry.

Rabbit owners who house their pets in solid bottom cages must be diligent in cleaning the bedding in the cage as urine scald which can irritate the rabbit's hocks (back feet).

[edit] Exhibition

[edit] Conformation shows

County fairs are common venues through which rabbits are shown in the United States. Rabbit clubs also hold shows, though they usually permit only purebred rabbits to be entered, a pedigree is not required to enter a rabbit in an ARBA-sanctioned show but is required to register your rabbit with the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). Both registration and a pedigreed are required to receive a Grand Champion certificate that has been earned.[citation needed] Children's clubs such as 4-H also include rabbit shows, usually in conjunction with county fairs.

[edit] Show jumping

Main article: Rabbit show jumping

Rabbit show jumping, a form of athletic competition between rabbits, began in the 1970s and has since become popular in Europe, particularly Sweden and the United Kingdom. Any rabbit regardless of breed may participate in this kind of competition, as it is based on athletic skill.

[edit] Genetics

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There are 10 color gene groups (or loci) in rabbits. They are A, B, C, D, E, En, Du, Si, V, and W. Each locus has dominant and recessive genes. In addition to the loci there are also modifiers, which modify a certain gene. These include the rufus modifiers, colour intensifiers, and plus/minus (blanket/spot) modifiers. A rabbit's coat only has two pigments, pheomelanin (yellow) and eumelanin (dark brown). There can also be no pigment, causing an albino or white rabbit.

Color Genes

Within each group, the genes are listed in order of dominance, with the most dominant gene first. In parenthesis after the description is at least one example of a color that displays this gene.

Note: lower case are recessive and capital letters are dominant
  • "A" represents the agouti locus (wild rabbit colour). The genes are:
    • A= agouti (chestnut, lynx, agouti)
    • at= tan pattern (tan, silver martin)
    • a= self or non-agouti (black, chocolate)
  • "B" represents the black locus. The genes are:
    • B= black (chestnut, agouti, black)
    • b= brown (chocolate)
  • "C" represents the color locus. The genes are:
    • C= full color (black)
    • cchd= dark chinchilla (chinchilla)
    • cchl= light chinchilla (seal point, smoke pearl)
    • ch= Himalayan (black pointed white)
    • c= albino (ruby-eyed white or REW)
  • "D" represents the dilution locus. (For example, a black rabbit with this gene is a blue.) The genes are:
    • D= dense color (normal coloring, like a dominant C)
    • d= diluted color (blue)
  • "E" represents the extension locus. It works with the 'A' and 'C' loci, and rufus modifiers. When it is recessive, it removes all dark pigment. The genes are:
    • Es= steel
    • E= normal dark pigment (black)
    • ej= Japanese brindling (harlequin)
    • e= no dark pigment (orange, frosted pearl)
  • "En" represents the plus/minus (blanket/spot) color locus. It creates the broken color pattern. The genes are:
    • En= English spotting (broken, which is white and another color)
    • en= self (no white areas, solid color)
  • "Du" represents the Dutch color pattern, (the front of the face, front part of the body, and rear paws are white, the rest of the rabbit has colored fur). The genes are:
    • Du= absence of Dutch pattern
    • du= Dutch pattern
  • "V" represents the vienna white locus. The genes are:
    • V= normal color
    • v= vienna white (blue-eyed white or BEW)
  • "Si" represents the silver locus. The genes are:
    • Si= normal color
    • si= silver color (silver, silver fox)
  • "W" represents the middle yellow-white band locus and works with the agouti gene. The genes are:
    • W= normal width of yellow band (chinchilla)
    • w= doubles yellow band width (New Zealand Red)

[edit] Health problems

[edit] Fly strike

Fly strike is one of the biggest killers of rabbits in the summer season. Fly strike happens when flies (particularly the Botfly) lay their eggs in the damp or soiled fur of a rabbit. Within 12 hours, the eggs hatch into the larvae stage of the fly, known as maggots. The maggots, initially small and almost invisible to the naked eye, soon burrow into the skin of the rabbit and feed on the skin and the internals. Within 3-4 days, the larvae are as large as 15mm long. By this time, the rabbit usually passes into shock and soon dies. The turnaround time for this disease is so lightning fast that a daily inspection of susceptible rabbits is necessary to prevent fatality. Rabbits most susceptible are older rabbits who do not move much, and those who are unable to clean their bottom areas carefully. If your rabbit has exhibited one or more episodes of soiling his/her bottom, make sure that it is then carefully inspected, especially during the summer months.[7] In 2002, the medicine Rearguard has been approved in the United Kingdom for a 10-week per-application prevention of Fly strike. Fly strike deaths are quick and extremely painful to the rabbit, as hundreds of larvae literally eat it alive.

[edit] Myxomatosis and West Nile Virus

Myxomatosis is a threat to the health of pet rabbits. Rabbits caged outdoors in Australia are vulnerable in areas with high numbers of mosquitoes. In Europe, fleas are the carriers of myxomatosis. In some countries, annual vaccinations against myxomatosis are available.

West Nile Virus is another threat to rabbits[citation needed], as they are related to horses. There are no vaccinations against this virus and it is fatal. Recourse against the disease includes limiting the number of mosquitoes that are around pet rabbits.

[edit] Sore hocks

The formation of open sores on the rabbit's hocks, commonly called "sore hocks," is a problem that commonly afflicts rabbits kept in cages with wire flooring. The condition results when, in the course of moving about the cage, the protective fur on the rabbit's hocks and feet is worn off and/or pulled out. The exposed skin further rubs on the wire floor, causing painful sores and blisters that can become infected.

Rabbits in cages with wire flooring must be provided with a solid floor cage or a resting board in order to prevent this from occurring. Ideally, because rabbits do not have padding on their feet, they should have access to a solid floor at all times. Regular inspections of a rabbit's feet can help an owner head off the development of sore hocks. Of course, prevention is always the best course of action.

[edit] Respiratory infections

An over-diagnosed ailment amongst rabbits is respiratory infection. Pasteurella bacteria, known colloquially as "snuffles," is usually misdiagnosed and has been known to be a factor in the overuse of antibiotics among rabbits.[8]

A runny nose, for instance, can have several causes, among those being high temperature or humidity, extreme stress, environmental pollution (like perfume or incense), or a sinus infection. Options for treating this is removing the pollutant, lowering or raising the temperature accordingly, and medical treatment for sinus infections.[8]

"Runny eyes" can be caused by dental disease or a blockage of the tear duct. Environmental pollution, corneal disease, entropion, distichiasis, or inflammation of the eyes are also causes. This is easy to diagnose as well as treat.[8]

Sneezing can be a sign of environmental pollution (such as too much dust) or food allergy.

While Pasteurella is a bacterium that lives in a rabbit's respiratory tract, it can flourish out of control in some cases. In the rare event that happens, antibiotic treatment is necessary.

[edit] Head tilt/wry neck/Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi)

Inner ear infections, certain protozoans, strokes, or other diseases or injuries affecting the brain or inner ear can lead to a condition known as wry neck or "head tilt." This condition can be fatal, due to a disorientation that causes the animal to stop eating and drinking. Sometimes an antibiotic or antiprotozoal treatment can cure wry neck. For information on what you can do if your vet says your bunny has wry neck, or "Encephalitazoon Cuniculi", take a look at this website (a breeder did quite a bit of research on cases in her area): http://www.barbibrownsbunnies.com/ecuniculi.htm

". . . Any rabbit exhibiting symptoms now are treated with not only Ivomec but Piperazine as well. That is followed with antibiotics if there is infection present and Depo-Medrol if rolling has begun. I do not intend to prescribe any medication, only to report what works for me. I find a dosage of one-tenth cc. per pound of body weight seems most effective for all injectables as well as Ivomec by mouth. Piperazine is given at the rate of 4 drops per pound. Piperazine is a pin worm medicine and has no direct effect on E.C. but may help eliminate pin worms that can further debilitate the rabbit. It is not, however, critical to the treatment of E.C. Many, I'm sure will disagree with the dosage but it works for me. I have found the lower dose of Ivomec is ineffective. The action of the Ivomec appears to be that it immobilizes the e.c. and prevents its multiplication and migration to the brain. . ."

In the UK, Panacur Rabbit (containing fenbendazole )is recommended as a nine day course to help contain this condition and is a simple oral paste to medicate at home.

[edit] Teeth problems

Dental disease has several causes, namely genetics, inappropriate diet, injury to the jaw, infection, or cancer.

  • Malocclusion: Rabbit teeth are open-rooted and continue to grow throughout their lives. In some rabbits, the teeth are not properly aligned, a condition called malocclusion. Because of the misaligned nature of the rabbit's teeth, there is no normal wear to control the length to which the teeth grow. There are three main causes of malocclusion, most commonly genetic predisposition, injury, or bacterial infection. In the case of congenital malocclusion, treatment usually involves veterinary visits in which the teeth are treated with a dental burr (a procedure called crown reduction or, more commonly, teeth clipping) or, in some cases, permanently removed.
  • Molar spurs: These are spurs that can dig into the rabbit's tongue and/or cheek causing pain. These can be filed down by an experienced veterinarian with a dental burr.

Signs of dental difficulty include difficulty eating, weight loss and small stools, anorexia, and visibly overgrown teeth. However, there are many other causes of ptyalism, including pain due to other causes.[9] A visit to an experienced rabbit veterinarian is strongly recommended in the case of a wet chin, or excessive grooming of the mouth area.

[edit] Gastrointestinal stasis

Gastrointestinal stasis is a serious and potentially fatal condition that occurs in some rabbits in which gut motility is severely reduced and possibly completely stopped. When untreated or improperly treated, GI stasis can be fatal in as little as 24 hours.

GI stasis is the condition of food not moving through the gut as quickly as normal. The gut contents may dehydrate and compact into a hard, immobile mass (impacted gut), blocking the digestive tract of the rabbit. Food in an immobile gut may also ferment, causing significant gas buildup and resultant gas pain for the rabbit.

The first noticeable symptom of GI stasis may be that the rabbit suddenly stops eating. Treatment frequently includes subcutaneous fluid therapy (rehydration through injection of saline solution under the skin), drugs for treatment of the buildup of gas in the digestive tract, massage to promote gas expulsion and comfort, possible drugs to promote gut motility, and careful monitoring of all inputs and outputs. The rabbit's diet may also be changed as part of treatment.

Some rabbits are more prone to GI stasis than others. The causes of GI stasis are not completely understood, but common contributing factors are thought to include:

  • a lack of fiber in the diet. Many pet rabbits do not get sufficient fresh grass hay, but are instead mistakenly fed only commercial alfalfa pellets originally developed for rapidly increasing mass in rabbits bred for meat.
  • insufficient moisture in the diet. Fresh, leafy greens are a critical part of a rabbit's diet in part because of their moisture content, which helps prevent the gut contents from becoming impacted.
  • lack of exercise. Rabbits confined to a cage frequently do not get the opportunity (or motivation) to run, jump, and play, which is critical in maintaining gut motility.

In addition, GI stasis can be caused by the rabbit not eating for other reasons, such as stress, dental problems, or other unrelated health problems.

GI stasis is sometimes misdiagnosed as cat-like "hair balls" by veterinarians not familiar with rabbit physiology.[10][11] However, unlike cats, rabbits do not have the ability to vomit.

[edit] Cancer

Rabbits frequently are subject to cancers of the reproductive organs by 4 or 5 years of age. Neutering or spaying a rabbit eliminates this risk and as a result may increase the animal's lifespan.

Less common is melanoma cancer, or skin cancer, in rabbits. It is assumed by theory that light-coloured animals that spend time in the sunlight are susceptible, however this author had a dark-coloured rabbit that was never in direct sunlight for its entire life. That rabbit developed a cancerous skin lesion on her hip and left the vet dumbfounded. Melanoma shows up as a small lump, not attached to the muscle, on the skin. It can be confused with an abscess but, if lanced and only blood comes out (no pus), most likely it is cancer. A vet can confirm it with a blood smear on a slide. The procedure is very simple for removal, with the rabbit being put under anesthesia and the cancerous lump cut off, followed by staple stitches to allow the skin to heal. The rabbit is back to normal without a day and lives like it always has. Prognosis for a cancer-free life is not often good & relapses are possible. Cutting off the lesion is mostly aesthetic and stops it from growing and possibly being accidentally torn or ripped off. However since the age of rabbits doesn't normally go past 8 years, on average not much longevity is lost and the rabbit enjoys the rest of its days. Chemotherapy isn't often suggested in rabbits as it is expensive and for the same reasons listed above.

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[edit] Veterinary Care

Rabbits need to visit the vets for routine check ups, vaccination and when ill or injured. Some veterinary surgeons have a special interest in rabbits and some have extra qualifications. In the UK the following post graduate qualifications demonstrate specialist training in rabbits: Certificate in Zoological Medicine, Diploma in Zoological Medicine and Recognised specialist in Rabbit Medicine and Surgery [12].

[edit] Routine Check ups

Routine check ups usually involve assessment of weight, skin, health and teeth by a veterinary surgeon. This is essential because a rabbit's health and welfare can be compromised by being overweight or underweight or by having dental problems. Checking the teeth is particularly important part of the examination as back teeth can only be seen with a otoscope. Veterinary surgeons can also give personalised advice on diet and exercise.

[edit] Vaccinations

Rabbits should be vaccinated against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease in the UK[13]. These vaccinations are usually given annually, two weeks apart. If there is an outbreak of Myxomatosis locally this vaccine can be administered every six months for extra protection [14].

[edit] Ill or Injured

Rabbits should be taken to the vets if ill or injured. It is important to seek urgent veterinary attention if a rabbit has any of the following symptoms: dramatic or sudden loss of appetite, severe depression[15], breathing problems[16], sudden onset of head tilt, signs of maggot infestation [17], not passing stools. Rabbits also need urgent veterinary attention if they are exposed to poisons, involved in an accidents, fall from a height or are exposed to smoke. Rabbits that are drooling, have unexplained weight loss, diarrhoea or fur loss should also be taken to the vets but it may be safe to wait until office hours. There are many other symtpoms for which a rabbit requires veterinary attention.

[edit] References

  1. ^ Lagomorph Specialist Group (1996). Oryctolagus cuniculus. 2006 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. IUCN 2006. Retrieved on 2006-05-12. Database entry includes a brief justification of why this species is of least concern
  2. ^ Online Etymology Dictionary
  3. ^ What's the lifespan of a rabbit?. House Rabbit Society. Retrieved on 2007-10-11.
  4. ^ ABC7 Chicago (TV station) article "Easter Rabbits"
  5. ^ House Rabbit Society: Chewing
  6. ^ The Essential Rabbit, editor Betsy Sikora Siing
  7. ^ House Rabbit Society: Fly strike
  8. ^ a b c Respiratory Disease by Dr. Susan A. Brown DVM
  9. ^ MediRabbit: Differential Diagnosis for Ptyalism
  10. ^ House Rabbit Society: Sluggish Motility in the Gastrointestinal Tract
  11. ^ University of Miami Department of Biology: Gastrointestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer
  12. ^ The Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons http://www.rcvs.org.uk/Templates/Internal.asp?NodeID=94964
  13. ^ British Veterinary Association Rabbit Care Downloads http://www.link2content.co.uk/uploads/bva/rabbit.pdf
  14. ^ http://www.intervet.co.uk/binaries/92_114377.pdf Intervet vaccination literature.
  15. ^ {{cite journal | author=Harcourt-Brown F| title= Anorexia in rabbits 2 | journal=In Pract | year=2002 | pages=450-67.| volume=24 | issue=8
  16. ^ {{cite journal | author=Paul-Murphy J| title= Critical care of the rabbit.| journal=Vet Clin North Am Exot Anim Pract. | year=2007 | pages=437-61.| volume=10| issue=2
  17. ^ {{cite journal | author=Cousquer G , 28: | title= Veterinary care of rabbits with myiasis| journal=In Pract. | year=2006 | pages=342 - 349.| volume=1028| issue=6

[edit] Further reading

  • House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit, ISBN 0-9409-2017-4
  • Why Does My Rabbit . . .? - a companion book to the House Rabbit Handbook
  • Rabbits for Dummies by Audrey Pavia, ISBN 0-7645-0861-X.
  • Stories Rabbits Tell - this book is less about rabbit care and more about rabbit's place in the human world. *caution* - later chapters contain disturbing imagery of animal experimentation
  • American Rabbit Breeders' Association, Official Guidebook: Raising Better Rabbits and Cavies.
  • Wegler, Monika, Rabbits: A Complete Pet Owner's Manual, ISBN 0-7641-0937-5.

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[edit] External links