Dave MacLeod

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Dave MacLeod

Born	Scotland
Occupation	Climber
Spouse	Claire MacLeod

Dave MacLeod is a Scottish rock climber and one of the foremost climbers in the UK, and one of the most accomplished all-round climbers in the world today. In April 2006 he established the climb Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock which, at a grade of E11 7a, is possibly the hardest traditional climbing route in the world and looks set to be confirmed as the most difficult in the UK. [1][2]

Rhapsody is the true finish to the line of Requiem E8 6b. Requiem was climbed in 1983 by Dave Cuthbertson and was one of the hardest rock climbs in the world at the time. It follows a crackline which fades out to a seam at half height. Requiem follows a flake heading rightwards to finish, Rhapsody climbs the line of the crack all the way to the top. The top half of the crack gives the 8c+ climbing and takes no more protection. MacLeod took many long falls from this runout, three from the last move in which he fell 70 feet and injured himself by hitting the rock at the end of the fall.

The ascent of Rhapsody is the subject of the movie, 'E11'

In addition to his achievements in traditional climbing, Dave has also successfully created and completed sport climbing routes and projects up to a grade of French 9a ('A Muerte' at Siurana) and has created bouldering problems up to a grade of Font 8b ("Pressure" at Dumbarton Rock). While he rarely free solo climbs, Dave has completed solo climbs up to grade 8c ('Darwin Dixit' in Margalef).

Dave MacLeod has also established impressive credentials in mixed climbing with ice axes and crampons, climbing "Good Training for Something" with Canadian climber Will Gadd at a grade of M12. He has also established the hardest traditional mixed climbing route in the world, "The Hurting" in Coire an t'Sneachda, Cairngorms. The route remains unrepeated at a proposed Scottish winter grade of XI,11 (M10+) with hard, technical climbing over very poor protection.