Cutting (plant)

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An example of how plant cuttings can be made^[1]

Plant cutting, also known as striking/cloning, is a technique for vegetatively (asexually) propagating plants in which a piece of the source plant containing at least one stem cell is placed in a suitable medium such as moist soil, potting mix, coir or rock wool. The cutting produces new roots, stems, or both, and thus becomes a new plant independent of the parent.

1 Technique
2 Types of cuttings
3 Providing the right soil
4 Providing the right humidity
5 Rooting hormone
- 5.1 Making your own rooting hormone
6 Practical differences with using different cutting types
- 6.1 Stem cuttings
7 See also
8 References
9 External links

[edit] Technique

Typically, striking is a simple process in which a small amount of the parent plant is removed. This removed piece, called the cutting, is then encouraged to grow as an independent plant.

However, to have a fair degree of success, the practice of taking cuttings is not as straightforward/easy as it may appear. If strikings are taken without providing the right growing conditions, it is more likely than not that the cutting will not “catch on” (form roots).

Thus, to have a fair amount of cuttings catching on, we need to provide the cutting with:

good soil; that is soil that is light/airy and which contains sufficient nutrients
a humid environment (this generally means placing the cuttings under a plastic sheet or in another confined space where through simple watering, the air can be kept humid/moist
partial shade (to prevent the cutting from drying out)
After cuttings are placed in soil, water generously and thoroughly with a fine mist. You can use the fine mist of a nozzle sprayer or you can use a spray mist bottle. After the initial watering, let almost dry out before misting again. You should mist enough to keep soil moist but not wet. Be sure to mist to keep from disturbing plants. You do not want a hard spray.

In addition, the cutting needs to be taken correctly; this means:

at the right time; in temperate countries, stem cuttings of young wood need to be taken in spring, of hardened wood they need to be taken in winter
with the right size and amount of foliage; length of stem cuttings of soft wood for example need to be between 5-15cm and of hard wood between 20-25cm. Also, the foliage of soft wood stem cuttings needs to be removed by 2/3 and of hard wood stem cuttings, complete foliage removal is necessary.

Also, though not essential, several compounds may be used to promote the formation of roots such as the auxins. Among the commonly used ones is indole-3-butyric acid, or IBA, used as a powder, solution or gel. This compound is applied either to the cut tip of the cutting or as a foliar spray.

[edit] Types of cuttings

Many vegetative parts of a plant can be used. The most common methods are

Stem cuttings, in which a piece of stem is part buried in the soil, including at least one leaf node. It produces new roots, usually at the node.
Root cuttings, in which a section of root is buried just below the soil surface, and produces new shoots
Scion cuttings; which are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.^[2]
Eye cuttings, which are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.^[3]
Leaf cuttings, in which a leaf is placed on moist soil. These have to develop both new stems and new roots. Some leaves will produce one plant at the base of the leaf. In some species, multiple new plants can be produced at many places on one leaf, and these can be induced by cutting the leaf veins.

Although some species, such as willow, blackberry and pelargoniums can be struck simply by sticking into moist ground, most species require more attention. Most species, require humid, warm, partially shaded conditions to strike, thus requiring the approach above to be followed. Particularly difficult species may need cool air above and warm soil. In addition, with many more difficult strikings, one would also prefer to use the type of cutting that has the most chance of success with that particular plant species.^[4]

[edit] Providing the right soil

Depending on the type of soil with which you start, several additives may need adding to create good soil for cuttings. These additions may include :

chalk; to increase the Ph-value of the soil; a Ph of 6-6,5 is to be maintained
organic substance/humus; to increase nutrient load; keep to a bare minimum though
sand/gravel; to increase the soils water permeability

For example with plain potting soil, you would want to add 1/3 sand to make suitable soil for cuttings.

[edit] Providing the right humidity

A white plastic greenhouse, used to keep the cuttings humid

Although several options can be used here, usually semi-white plastic is used to cover the cuttings. The soil below and from the cuttings themselves is kept moist. Aerate once and a while to prevent formation of moulds.

[edit] Rooting hormone

As mentioned before, rooting hormone may be used to facilitate striking, yet is generally not the most important factor in the process. It may be helpful however with especially hard plant species.

[edit] Making your own rooting hormone

How to Make Your Own Rooting Hormone

When starting a new plant from a leaf or stem cutting, the cutting will be more likely to form roots and create a new plant if a rooting hormone is used.

While commercial rooting hormone can be used there are organic homemade versions that work as well.

To make rooting hormone, soak the yellow-tipped shoots of a weeping willow tree in water. A tea made from the bark of a willow tree is also effective. When using the shoots or bark, soak them for 24 hours prior to using.^[5]

Some people have found that using honey makes an effective rooting hormone as well.

Leaf cuttings: Any plant with leaves such as African Violet, Geranium etc. can be propagated with leaf cuttings. Using a sharp knife, cut off a healthy leaf at the point where it joins the stem. Insert the cut part, called a petiole, into the rooting hormone. Place the end into a small container of light potting soil in which you make a small hole with a pencil.

Making a hole prior to planting assures that the rooting hormone will not be brushed off the cutting when you plant it. Perlite, Vermiculite, and/or water-soaked Sphagnum moss can be added to potting soil to make the soil light. Make sure the leaf is leaning slightly so that the new plants will have plenty of light and not be shaded by the leaf.

Stem cuttings: These are treated just like leaf cuttings except you cut off a stem with several leaves instead of just one leaf. Remove the bottom leaves, leaving a few at the top. Proceed as with the leaf cutting.

In both instances, cover the pot with a plastic bag or inverted glass jar. This will keep moisture from evaporating and keep the cutting from wilting. Keep in a warm location with diffused light but out of direct sunlight. When there is indications of growth after about 3 to 6 weeks, transplant the new emerging plant into a new pot of potting soil. Continue to keep a humid environment for about 2 more weeks until active growth begins.^[6]

[edit] Practical differences with using different cutting types

[edit] Stem cuttings

Softwood stemcuttings of Buxus sempervirens

In temperate countries, stem cuttings may be taken of soft (green or semi-ripe) wood and hard wood which has specific differences in practice. Stem cuttings of soft wood is taken in spring, while from hard wood, they are taken in winter. Also, of soft wood the upper branches are taken (with a length of 5-15cm) and with hard wood, the lower branches are taken instead (with a length of 20-25cm). Finally, soft wood cuttings are planted above ground and hard wood cuttings are totally submerged with soil. With hard wood cuttings, several cuttings are also bound together (to a bushel).