Clean climbing

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It has been suggested that this article or section be merged into Traditional climbing. (Discuss)

Clean climbing is a style of rock climbing that avoids damage to the rock by eschewing the drilling of bolts and the hammering of pitons. The style became practical with the invention of clean protection: nuts in the 1930s and spring loaded camming devices in the 1970s. The 1970s also saw the introduction of the Leave No Trace concept, which, among similar ethics for other outdoor activities, stipulates that climbers should follow these clean climbing notions.

Clean climbing is the preferred style of climbing in most parts of the United Kingdom where it is more commonly known as traditional climbing (trad); British climbers tolerate bolts and pitons on only a few cliffs. In other parts of the world it co-exists with sport climbing.

Clean climbers can carry and place protection by hand, removing them just as easily and cleanly.

Pitons and bolts are rarely used (almost exclusively in aid climbing) due to the damage they cause to the rock. This ethic has evolved such that on most modern climbs, any bolts and pitons installed are left in place (known as "fixed") for all future parties to use, in order to prevent multiple damaging placements.

Clean climbing differs from Sport Climbing, a popular form of climbing in many parts of Europe and the United States (as well as other countries), in that protection for Sport Climbing is provided entirely by fixed bolts, and clean gear is rarely used. Sport Climbing typically involves shorter routes (usually 100' in height or less) focusing on overhung, strenuous movements, and does not require the considerable skill of placing and removing clean protective gear.

Some routes are partially bolt protected and partially gear protected. These are most commonly referred to as "mixed protection" routes.

The debate between Traditional, or Trad Climbers, and Sport Climbers continues to this day over what the acceptable usage of bolts for protection is. Most Traditional climbers believe that bolts should not be used on any route where clean protection is possible, in order to preserve the rock. Some sport climbers believe that all routes should be bolted completely so that gear placement skills are not necessary to attempt the climb.

The general ethic is very dependent upon the area in question and varies widely by region. Generally speaking, the traditional ethic holds in most areas, and bolts are not used for protection unless there is no other option.

Left to traditional clean climbers, major UK climbing areas - for example Malham Cove - could have been climbed and still remain clear of expansion bolts. Despite this, bolting was permitted by the BMC on this Site of Special Scientific Interest Reference: Peter Livesey Climber and Hillwalker magazine Article: http://groups.msn.com/SafetyInformationforMountainClients/retrobolts.msnw