Chanel
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| Chanel | |
|---|---|
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| Type | Privately held |
| Founded | 1910s |
| Headquarters | Paris, France |
| Industry | Fashion |
| Products | Clothing, footwear, handbags, cosmetics & jewelery |
| Website | www.chanel.com |
The House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel (IPA: [ʃə.ˈnɛɫ]), is a Parisian fashion house in France founded by Coco Chanel (b.1883 - d.1971). According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandsons of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer.
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[edit] History
Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, lean dresses. She introduced to the world her signature cardigan jacket in 1925. She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry including the ever popular Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. The hem of the suit is weighted down with a chain. Wealthy women around the world began to flock to her 31 Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name “Chanel” became synonymous with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class.
After the phenomenal success of her perfume, No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. Chanel took to living at the Hôtel Ritz Paris, and her suite of residence has become famous and is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite."
Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. It was inspired by the jackets of jockeys. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike. The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who also designs for the House of Fendi, as well as his namesake label.
[edit] The Coco Chanel Era
Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1909-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.
[edit] 1909-1932
In 1909, Chanel opened a millinery shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’, at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. Her hats were worn by famous French actresses who helped establish her reputation. Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville, France. Her line of jersey clothing was a reaction to the lifestyle changes surrounding WWI. Coal was scarce and women were taking on factory jobs in the men's stead. They needed warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions. Her clothes of this time period were also greatly affected by the relatively new idea of women's sports. Chanel has continued in that trend, producing sports clothing, accessories, and equipment even more so today.
Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for prioritising freedom of movement by not featuring ostentation and redundancy in her designs. She affirmed the House’s style of authentic, fluid and comfortable lines. She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France, to introduce her other fashion lines.
1921 saw the introduction of her first perfume Chanel No. 5. It was internationally popular with women of high society in particular. “La Société des Parfums Chanel" was founded in 1924 to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products. Reportedly, the signature scent was a result of her belief in superstitions. She was scheduled to show her collection on the fifth day of the fifth month. [1]
The first Chanel costume jewellery collection was introduced in 1924. Harper’s Bazaar described it as “one of the most revolutionary designs of our time.”[citation needed]
In 1926, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel created her first tweed suits.
Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewellery in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.
[edit] 1935-1981
In 1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular couture house. Only her perfumes and accessories were sold at Chanel’s boutiques.
Coming out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened the couture house in 1954. Her first show received international acclaim, with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore her favourite number: 5. In February 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the shoulder strap, named the 2.55 bag after the month and year of its creation. That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur.
In 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’
On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died, ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration in.
However, her influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years later. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus.
Famous quotes: “Fashion fades, only style remains the same.”
“A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.”
“Success is often achieved by those who don't know that failure is inevitable.”
[edit] The Karl Lagerfeld Era
Karl Lagerfeld would become one of the most iconic designers of recent times. With his flashy sense of style combined with a strong vision of a new Chanel, Lagerfeld brought the couture house to new levels, and is still continuing to woo and awe the fashion world.[citation needed]
1983 was the year of change for the House of Chanel. It was the year Karl Lagerfeld was appointed ‘Artistic Director’ for Chanel Fashion, including haute couture, prêt-à-porter, and accessories. He shocked the fashion world by changing Chanel’s fashion lines from the predictable same styles that greeted the world year after year to shorter cuts and eye capturing designs. In 1984, the House of Chanel launched the fragrance, Coco, in honour of the late Coco Chanel. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch made its debut. 1990 saw the launchĹŹ1996 greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense popularity, a men’s version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998. The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, PRÉCISION in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12, a style whose clean cuts and fusion of masculine and feminine elements formed a revolutionary watch, and a supposed cult-following in certain circles. To please the younger fashionistas, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an ‘In-Between Wear’ in 2003. 2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of Chanel founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroiderer, Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December. 2003 saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute couture that the company founded a second atelier on rue Cambon. The sunglasses brand is a brand of Italian Luxottica Group. The No. 5 perfume had always received free campaigns from actresses and starlets that used it daily, including Marilyn Monroe, Nicole Kidman, Vanessa Paradis and new face Audrey Tautou[2].
[edit] 2005-Present
The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006 featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, is one of the most desired "it" bags of the moment. Chanel still is popular because they mix the trends of today with the class and simplicity they had when they first opened.
The House of Chanel, under the leadership of Karl Lagerfeld has defined the style and fashion of Chanel as being the five essentials: audacious, perfectionist, unique, passionate, and visionary.
Chanel has expanded in Asian countries where it is idolized by many Japanese and Chinese. He opened a huge flagship store in Tokyo and Shanghai, bringing celebrities and press.
[edit] The Iconic Logotype
The Chanel logotype is an interlocking double-C, one facing forwards the other facing backwards. (Originally it was not a logo that Coco Chanel came up with) This derives from the name Coco Chanel. "Coco" is the nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel. The logotype was not trade-marked until during the first openings of Chanel stores.
Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods, especially counterfeit handbags. Countries said to be producing great numbers of counterfeit Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand, and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails from around $1,500, while a counterfeit usually costs around $100, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price. All authentic Chanel handbags are serialised.
[edit] Watches
Creative Director at Chanel Jacques Helleu followed Coco Chanel's credo, having designed the first Chanel watch named 'Premiere' in 1987. The first model of the Chanel J12 watches line was introduced in 2000.
In 2005, Chanel designers introduced the J12 line into the area of Fine Jewelry timepieces - they developed the jewelry watch that was equipped with the tourbillon. Chanel asked experienced Swiss watchmakers to develop the exclusive 'CHANEL O5-T.1' movement.
In 2006, the line was joined by Chanel J12 Haute Joaillerie set with 597 baguette-cut diamonds, followed by the creation of the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie. In 2007, Chanel launched its first J12 GMT model.
In 2008, Chanel initiated the partnership with Audemars Piguet, having developed the 'J12 calibre 3125', equipped with an innovative automatic movement - CHANEL AP - 3125, the fusion of the AP 3120 movement and Chanel 'J12' ceramic.[3]
[edit] No. 5 The Film
Chanel has launched a new advertising film that casts Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel No. 5. It was produced by Baz Luhrmann, the director of Moulin Rouge and Romeo+Juliet, and was shot on location in Sydney. Kidman takes on the role of the most famous woman in the world while Brazilian Model/Actor Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling writer in love with Kidman. The commercial lasts three minutes, and reportedly took many months of pre- and post-production. It cost about €26 million ($46 million), making No. 5 The Film one of the most expensive advertisements in history.[4]
[edit] Coco Mademoiselle (Le Film)
Recently, the young Academy Award-nominated actress Keira Knightley has been announced as the new face of Coco Mademoiselle, a fragrance intended for the younger fans of Chanel. A short advertising film was made starring Knightley, who subsequently plays Coco Chanel herself, clad in a bowler hat and short styled bob. The film was directed by the BAFTA-winning English film director Joe Wright, who has also worked with Knightley in his award-winning films Pride & Prejudice and Atonement.
