Carmel Snow
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Carmel Snow (Dalkey, Ireland, 27 August 1887 - New York City, New York, 1961) was the influential editor of the American edition of Harper's Bazaar from 1934 to 1958 and, after her retirement, the chairman of the magazine's editorial board.
[edit] Family
A daughter of Peter White, the head of the Irish Wool Manufacturing and Export Company, and his wife, the former Annie Mayne, Carmel White moved with her family to the United States as a child, after her father's death, when her newly-widowed mother was called upon to replace him as the head of the Irish pavilion of the Chicago World's Fair. Carmel had several siblings, including Victor White, a painter who decorated roof ballroom of the St. Regis hotel, and Christine (White) Holbrook, who became the editor in chief of Better Homes and Gardens. She also two additional brothers, Desmond and James.
Carmel White married a prominent society lawyer, George Palen Snow, in 1926 and had three daughters: Carmel, Mary Palen, and Brigid. Her granddaughter Megan Flanigan married George Skakel III, a nephew of Ethel Kennedy.
[edit] Career and influence
After working briefly at T.M. & J.M Fox, a famous dressmaking concern in Manhattan that was owned by her mother, Snow went to work as a fashion editor at American Vogue in 1921 and joined Harper's Bazaar 11 years later. She famously described her goal at the latter publication as creating a magazine for "well-dressed women with well-dressed minds." Her influence at both magazines went far beyond fashion reportage: she brought cutting-edge art, fiction, photography, and reporting into the American home.
Snow was particularly gifted at discovering new talent, as well as fostering new avenues of exploration among previously-established artists. In the 1920s, she worked closely with Edward Steichen, already a world-famous photographer, helping him to apply his talents to fashion photography, which he did to great effect, well into the 1930s.
In 1932, she hired Martin Munkacsi, the great Hungarian photojournalist, to take his first fashion shots; she brought him and the socialite-model Lucile Brokaw to a windy, autumnal beach and, in the course of an afternoon, Munkacsi created history, by coming up with the first fashion photographs shot outdoors and in motion -- a revolutionary act.
Snow hired her famous art director Alexey Brodovitch on the basis of an exhibition of his work in graphic design, and found her fashion editor, Diana Vreeland, after noticing her, with her estimable chic, dancing across a crowded room. Between the three of them, Snow, Brodovitch, and Vreeland turned Harper's Bazaar into the most admired magazine of the last century. Among the now-household-names whose careers Snow encouraged are: Andy Warhol, Maeve Brennan, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Truman Capote, Jean Cocteau, Cecil Beaton, Christian Dior (his 1947 debut collection she dubbed the New Look), Cristobal Balenciaga, Carson McCullers, Kenneth Tynan, and numerous others. She also discovered Lauren Bacall and put her on the cover of Harper's Bazaar, an act that brought the unknown model to the attention of Hollywood.
Snow once famously said that "Elegance is good taste plus a dash of daring." She lived that saying in every aspect of her professional life, until her forced retirement from Bazaar, when she was in her seventies. Her position as editor in chief was taken over by her niece Nancy White.
As to why her reputation faded, while Vreeland went on to become a legend, photographer Richard Avedon (quoted in "A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art,and Letters," a biography by Penelope Rowlands that was published in 2005) said: "She was older, right? And she died before stardom was the thing." He added, however, "Carmel Snow taught me everything I know." Many others, and particularly photographers, also credited her with helping them to hone their craft. Henri Cartier-Bresson, with whom she worked closely, beginning in the 1930s, described Snow as "magic." And when the great Hungarian photographer known as Brassai heard of Snow's retirement, he was said to have abandoned photography for good. On the other hand, Snow was complicit in helping derail the careers of photographers who were suspected Communist sympathizers during the Joseph McCarthy years. Lisette Model and others who had found tremendous success working under Snow and Brodovitch in the 1940's suddenly found themselves completely blacklisted, unable to get commissions during the early 1950's. A planned publication on jazz, a collaboration between Model and writer Langston Hughes was sabotaged by Snow despite years of preparation. Due in part to the backlash against McCarthyism in the 1960's, it is perhaps not so surprising why Snow's reputation faded so quickly in her later years and after her death.
