Brunellopoli

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Montalcino

Brunellopoli is the Italian press's name^[1] given to a scandal within the Italian winemaking industry and larger worldwide wine community that broke on March 21, 2008, when wine critic Franco Ziliani reported^[2] on his blog news of an investigation into allegations that some producers of Brunello di Montalcino wine had secretly and illegally added other varietals into what are supposed to be pure (known as "vintage") wines, ostensibly to inflate production and increase profit on this usually expensive^[3] wine.

The story received wider attention on April 4, 2008 when the Italian newsweekly L'espresso reported^[4] that 20 firms were suspected of commercial fraud after investigators alleged that possibly millions of liters of Brunello di Montalcino had been cut with grapes of other varieties in violation of the purity requirements of Brunello's commercial certification. Vineyards were quarantined and hundreds of thousands of bottles were seized by investigating magistrates.^[5] In addition, prominent producers such as Antinori, Frescobaldi, Argiano and Castello Banfi admitted that they were under investigation. While unlike earlier Italian scandals regarding tainted or fraudulent wine, there was no health risk feared,^[6] many observers suggested that great damage to the reputation of Brunello di Montalcino would result in lasting economic effects.

The prosecutor handling the case, Nino Calabrese, stated that the relevant commercial fraud charges carry a maximum sentences of up to six years in prison.^[7] In addition, any winemaker found guilty of violating the purity rules set down by Brunello's controlling body, the Consorzio del Vino Brunello, would probably mean expulsion from that group.^[8] The Consorzio has around 250 members, all of whom are bound to follow specific standards for winemaking, most importantly that only sangiovese grapes are used. Some have asserted that the alleged substitute grapes used to cut wine production by fraudulent winemakers were cheap grapes that probably came from vineyards in southern Italy.^[9]

It has also been asserted^[10] that the addition of other grapes may have been for the purpose of broadening the market appeal of Brunello, which has been described as possessing idiosyncratic, rarefied characteristics that sometimes result in a "hard to drink"^[11] wine, though Brunellos generally are much praised . (A Biondi Santi 1955 Brunello was the only wine from Italy selected as "best of the century" by a panel of experts in 1999.)^[12]

Some winemakers, such Argiano, have moved to decertify all the bottles that have thus far been impounded by the prosecutor's office in an effort to allow them to bring them to market, albeit under a different name and at a significantly lower price, rather than wait an indefinite length of time for a court resolution. "Our decision isn't because we feel guilty," said a representative of Argiano. "We can't wait passively for months. We need to be on the market."^[13]

Some experts, such as wine critics Eric Asimov^[14] and Ziliani^[15], have expressed skepticism about the level of surprise and shock thus far expressed by industry members, asserting that rumors have been around for years regarding illegal varietals used by some producers in Montalcino.

As of May, 2008, the investigation continues, and the U.S. government has even threatened to block imports of Brunello that do not come with proof that they are in fact 100% Sangiovese. A spokesman for the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau says that the United States took this step only after earlier requests for information from the Italian government met with an inadequate response.^[16]

[edit] References

^ http://www.google.it/search?hl=it&q=brunellopoli&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=nw
^ Vino al vino » Blog Archive » Rumors from Montalcino: vino pugliese spacciato per Brunello?
^ "Brunello's reputation questioned as producers face fraud inquiry." The Independent (London, England) (April 5, 2008): 30
^ Emiliano Fittipaldi. "Nel Brunello c'è il tranello." http://espresso.repubblica.it/dettaglio/Nel-Brunello-ce-il-tranello/2012048. April 3, 2008. Accessed May 9, 2008.
^ "Brunello's reputation questioned as producers face fraud inquiry." The Independent (London, England) (April 5, 2008): 30
^ Reuters via Irish Times, Apr 05, 2008
^ Povoledo, Elisabetta. "'Bolt From the Blue' On a Tuscan Red.(Dining In, Dining Out / Style Desk)(Montalcino)." The New York Times (April 23, 2008): F1(L).
^ Povoledo, Elisabetta. "'Bolt From the Blue' On a Tuscan Red.(Dining In, Dining Out / Style Desk)(Montalcino)." The New York Times (April 23, 2008): F1(L).
^ Povoledo, Elisabetta. "'Bolt From the Blue' On a Tuscan Red.(Dining In, Dining Out / Style Desk)(Montalcino)." The New York Times (April 23, 2008): F1(L).
^ Povoledo, Elisabetta. "'Bolt From the Blue' On a Tuscan Red.(Dining In, Dining Out / Style Desk)(Montalcino)." The New York Times (April 23, 2008): F1(L).
^ Fraudulent Brunellos? Shocking! - The Pour - Dining & Wine - New York Times Blog
^ "Brunello's reputation questioned as producers face fraud inquiry." The Independent (London, England) (April 5, 2008): 30
^ Povoledo, Elisabetta. "'Bolt From the Blue' On a Tuscan Red.(Dining In, Dining Out / Style Desk)(Montalcino)." The New York Times (April 23, 2008): F1(L).
^ Fraudulent Brunellos? Shocking! - The Pour - Dining & Wine - New York Times Blog
^ Povoledo, Elisabetta. "'Bolt From the Blue' On a Tuscan Red.(Dining In, Dining Out / Style Desk)(Montalcino)." The New York Times (April 23, 2008): F1(L).
^ "Washington Takes On Brunello", The New York Times Company, 2008-05-13.