Browns Park

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Brown's Park is an isolated mountain valley along the Green River in Moffat County, Colorado and Daggett County, Utah, United States. The valley begins in far eastern Utah, approximately 25 miles (40 km) downstream from Flaming Gorge Dam, and follows the river downstream into Colorado, ending at the Gates of Lodore in Dinosaur National Monument. Known as haven for outlaws such as Butch Cassidy during the late 19th century, it is now the location of the Browns Park National Wildlife Refuge. It was also the birthplace of The Bassett Girls, Ann Bassett and Josie Bassett, female outlaws and girlfriends to several of Cassidy's Wild Bunch gang.

[edit] History

In the early 19th century, when the Euro-Americans first entered the area, the area was inhabited by Comanche, Shoshoni, and Ute tribal group. Blackfeet, Sioux, Cheyenne, Arapaho, and Navaho tribes also visited or used the area. The use of the area by Native Americans was documented by the 1776 Dominguez-Escalante Expedition and by the 1805 Lewis and Clark Expedition. In the 1830s the valley became a favorite location for fur trappers and settlers. In 1837 Fort Davy Crockett was constructed as a trading post and as defense against attacks by the Blackfoot. The fort was abandoned in the 1840s and the population of settlers declined. After the discovery of gold in California in 1848, the valley emerged among ranchers as a favorite wintering ground for cattle. By the 1860s it had acquired a reputation as haven for cattle rustlers, horse thieves, and outlaws, alongside Hole-in-the-Wall, Wyoming and Robbers Roost in Utah. During its outlaw heyday, the Browns Park ethic allowed for most "outlaw deeds" except murder.

In 1965 the valley became the location of the Browns Park National Wildlife Refuge, designated as habitat for migratory waterfowl. The refuge contains the remains of several historic sites, including Two Bar Ranch headquarters, Fort Davy Crockett, Lodore Hall (which still serves as a community center) and several old abandoned cabins and homesteads.

[edit] Descriptive Essay

Brown's Park, originally called Brown's Hole, is a broad verdant valley located in the high desert of northwestern Colorado and northeastern Utah. This valley of the Green River has several features that made it a sheltered gathering place for outlaws, ranchers and trappers in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Now the location of Brown's Park National Wildlife Refuge, the valley has moderate weather with abundant water and wildlife. The valley was a favored place to winter cattle herds, providing some protection from the winds and blizzards of the high dessert expanses of Wyoming and Colorado.

The Wilson Place, near Lodore Hall
The Wilson Place, near Lodore Hall

The remote location of Brown's Park provided shelter of another sort. Because the valley is located on the borders of Colorado, Wyoming and Utah, outlaws could easily escape in any of several directions, quickly crossing state lines and jurisdictions. Riders could go Southwest through Crouse canyon and make a beeline for Vernal Utah, or head North through Irish canyon to take in the nightlife of Rock Springs, Wyoming. Heading east leads, eventually, to Craig, Colorado, and due west to the wide-open country of Northeast Utah. In any direction, the nearest substantial towns are 50 miles distant. Escaping down the Green River was not a practical option, as Brown's Park is where the Green River dives into the rugged Gates of Lodore canyon as it enters the canyon country of Western Colorado on the way to the Colorado River canyons of Utah. Today the Gates of Lodore is a popular place to begin white-water rafting trips. Brown's park remains secluded today, providing a refuge for those in search of solitude and escape along with a dose of western history.

Likely, the most famous outlaws to shelter in Brown's Park were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Another well-known character to visit the area was Tom Horn, hired to do some “range detective” work for local ranches under the pseudonym of Mr. Hicks. The ranchers and homesteaders in the valley apparently made their peace with the Wild Bunch, giving shelter and warning of approaching lawmen. In turn, the resident outlaws did not steal locally and even provided occasional monetary support to locals in need. This understanding and cooperation was encouraged by the remoteness of the area. The outlaws acted not so much like visitors, but members of the community.

John Jarvie Home and Store
John Jarvie Home and Store

John Wesley Powell's river expeditions of 1869 and 1871 traveled the Green River through Brown's Hole. Powell is often credited for changing the name of Brown’s Hole to Brown’s Park, and for naming the Gates of Lodore. Kit Carson hunted game in the area for Fort Davy Crockett. Early settlers in the valley included John Jarvie who built a general store and supply operation, and Dr. John Parsons (Doc Parsons), who ran the first post office in Brown's Park.

Today’s visitor to Brown’s park is obligated to visit four places.

The Bureau of Land Management has restored the John Jarvie homestead to an extraordinarily fine condition. There may be no better place to get a feel of Brown’s Park than at the Jarvie place. The Jarvie homestead is located in Utah just west of the Colorado border.

One of the major cattle outfits in the park was the 2-Bar ranch. The 2-bar reportedly hired Tom Horn to do a little rustling detective work at one time. The main buildings and corrals of the ranch still exist, preserved in a state of benign, untouched neglect. The 2-Bar is located within walking distance of the preserved Lodore Hall, requiring a moderate hike across open scrub country. It is the lack of a road, or even much of a trail, to the 2-Bar that helps to preserve its untouched tumble-down character.

2-Bar ranch ruins, overlooking the Gates of Lodore
2-Bar ranch ruins, overlooking the Gates of Lodore

Third on the list is Crouse Canyon. This short, narrow, red rock canyon exits Brown’s Park to the southwest, and was a preferred horseback route to Vernal, Utah. No lawman would be comfortable at the thought of pursuing a gun toting crook through the narrow confines and overhangs of this canyon. There is usually a tinkle of water in Crouse creek, and the microclimate in the canyon is a welcome respite on a hot summer day. Today the route is a narrow dirt road, suitable for high clearance vehicles in dry weather.

Last on the “must see” list is Lodore Hall. Stand at this old schoolhouse; look over the expansive Green River valley, the 2-Bar ranch ruins and the Gates of Lodore. Imagine what this fine valley was like in July of 1909 when John Jarvie, murdered by two robbers, was set adrift in a rowboat on the Green. His grave is located at the Lodore Hall cemetery, not far from where the boat grounded.

If you have the time, there are more places to visit. Irish Canyon is the northern entrance to Brown’s park. One story goes that three Irishmen robbed a saloon in Rock Springs, Wyoming of some money and whiskey, and then headed south to hide in Brown’s park. The robbers camped in the canyon and had sampled much whiskey by the time the posse caught up. This made the bust an easy one, and provided a name for the canyon too.

Doc Parsons’ place still exists, but it is not restored or easily accessible. In fact, the rangers are a bit reluctant to tell you where the Doc’s place is until they get to know you a little. Nothing above ground remains of Fort Davy Crockett. It is customary to stop and visit the Blevin’s at their Brown’s Park store – the only place for miles around to find a can of beans and a gallon of gas. Even if you don’t buy anything, they seem to like it when visitors stop to sign the book.

[edit] See also