Black tie
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Black tie is the men’s dress code term for semi-formal evening dress composed of a dinner jacket suit comprising a jacket and matching trousers; tuxedo in Canada and the U.S., as opposed to the more formal white tie. Currently, black tie is worn to many types of social functions; women's corresponding evening dress ranges from a conservative cocktail dress to the long evening gown determined per current fashion, local custom, and the occasion's time.
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[edit] The elements of black tie
Unlike white tie, a man has sartorial options in choosing his dinner jacket and accessories. The elements of a traditional black-tie ensemble are:
- Short or medium black jacket which may have grosgrain- or satin-faced lapels
- Black trousers with silk braids matching the lapels
- A black cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat
- A white dress shirt with either a marcella or a pleated front
- A black silk bow tie
- Black dress socks, often made of silk
- Black patent leather shoes or highly polished black leather shoes
[edit] Jacket
The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, constructed of black, or midnight blue wool, which may be faced with either grosgrain (ribbed silk) or satin. The most traditional lapel type is the peaked lapel, derived from its tailcoat predecessor; the shawl collar (with rounded lapels) is used also. Currently, both styles can be either single- or double-breasted. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, is an American innovation; disdained by purists for its lounge suit derivation, it is has been accepted by other authorities as "a legitimate...less formal alternative."[1] The traditional single-breasted jacket has a single-button closure, with two-button variants sometimes seen; jackets incorporating more buttons are fashion fads. (Also see: smoking jacket)
The colour black may have a green hue in artificial light, if aesthetically unacceptable to the man, midnight blue (introduced by the Prince of Wales) is the acceptable alternative colour; other colours are fads.
The white dinner jacket is often worn in warm climates. The American colour exceptions are its use in the celebratory high school graduation promenade dance, or "prom", and concert conductors, i.e. the Last Night. In the U.S. and Canada a white dinner jacket is traditionally worn only from Memorial Day in the spring to Labor Day in late summer, this rule applies also to white summer clothes (shoes, suits, et cetera).
Stylistically, it is bad form (ill-mannered) for a man to take off his jacket during a black-tie social event; but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the ranking man (of the royal family, the guest of honour) may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain communities.
[edit] Trousers
Black-tie suit trousers have no turn-ups (cuffs) or belt loops. The outer leg seams may be decorated with a single, silk braid matching the lapel facing. Customarily, braces (suspenders in the U.S.) hold up the trousers; they are hidden either by the waistcoat, which may be backless, or by the coat: hence it is bad social form for a man to take off his coat. Recently, flat-front, pleatless trousers feature in some styles of dinner dress; like all innovations in formal wear the feature's appropriateness is debated.
[edit] Waistcoat or Cummerbund
The waist is dressed in either a waistcoat (vest) or a cummerbund (not both) when wearing a single-breasted coat. Usually, the waistcoat is low-cut, has a three-button stance, and of the same cloth as the jacket. The cummerbund sash (from military dress uniform in British India) is worn pleats up, and is of the same cloth as the bow tie and lapels. (White waistcoats with black tie are a rare alternative.)
[edit] Shirt
The Shirt is conventionally white or off-white (cotton, linen, silk) and its front either is cotton marcella (as in white tie) or pleated.
Before World War II, stiff shirts with separate wing collars were the norm. Today, semi-stiff shirts with attached wing collars are the U.S. norm; a shirt with a fold-down collar is the U.K. norm. The original, and most formal, version of the dress shirt usually fastens with matching shirt studs and cuff links. In lieu of studs, a buttoned shirt with either a fly-front placket or a French front (sans placket) is worn. Soft shirts have French cuffs, stiff shirts (as in white tie) have single cuffs fastened with cuff links.
[edit] Bow Tie
The Bow Tie is typically made of silk barathea or satin and is knotted by hand. It is considered poor form and déclassé by some to wear a commercially pre-knotted clip-on or hook fastened bow tie, especially when the clips or (hook-and-buckle) fastener shows.
[edit] Footwear
Traditionally, the most formal shoes are patent-leather opera pumps (court shoes) decorated with a ribbed silk bow, as worn with white tie; they are uncommon today. A popular, formal alternative is the black leather lace-up Oxford shoe, often in patent leather, but without a toe cap or decorative brogueing. Too-informal for black tie are shoes with open lacing, i.e. "Derbies" in the U.K., "bluchers" in the U.S. An exceedingly rare alternative is the black button boot.
Hosiery should be black, knee-high, ribbed silk socks.
[edit] Accessories
Handkerchief and Boutonniere: A white handkerchief (cotton, linen or silk) and/or a boutonniere (a blue cornflower, red or white carnation, or a rosebud.) may be worn on the coat.
Outerwear: In cold weather a chesterfield overcoat, gray gloves, and a white silk scarf are worn.
Hat: Black tie has no standard hat. If one is worn, it usually is a black homburg or trilby in winter; in summer, a straw boater is acceptable. Top hats are worn only with white tie and morning dress.
Timepiece: If worn, a wristwatch should be slender, plain, and elegant; alternatively, a pocket watch may be worn on the waistcoat. Traditionally, however, visible timepieces are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping is not considered a priority.
Decorations and orders: Military, civil, and organisational decorations usually worn only to formal events of State or other sovereign organisation. Miniature orders and awards are typically worn on the left breast or left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according to country-specific or organisational regulations.
[edit] Black-Tie Social Occasions
Black tie is worn to private and public dinners, dances, and parties. At the formal end of the social spectrum, it replaced white tie where it once was de rigueur dress (e.g. for orchestra conductors).
Black tie is evening dress, worn only after six o'clock in the evening, or after sundown during winter months. Black tie's daytime equivalents are morning dress for formal daytime events, or the stroller for semi-formal day events.
[edit] Black Tie in public perception
- Given the nature of black tie social dress, the dinner jacket is considered exclusive; ownership is a statement of caste.
- Some deride the dinner jacket as "penguin suit", connoting conformism.
[edit] Corresponding forms of dress
[edit] Mess dress
In dining out formally, the armed forces officer and non-commissioned officer normally wears a mess uniform equivalent to the civilian black tie and evening dress. Stylistically, the mess uniform varies according to the wearer's regiment or corps, but usually comprises a short Eton-style coat reaching to the waist. Some include white shirts, black bow ties, and low-cut waistcoats, while others feature high collars that fasten around the neck and corresponding high-gorge waistcoats. Usually, mess uniforms are brightly-coloured (in the British Army scarlet is most common) and ornamented with gold and lace and gilt buttons, all corresponding to the colours of the regiment or corps of the wearer.
In the Royal Navy there is a distinction between "mess dress", which is worn at white tie events, and "mess undress", which is worn at black tie events. Both are worn with a black bow tie, however mess dress is worn with a white waistcoat instead of the usual colour, and may be worn with a stiff shirt and wing collar. The stiff shirt and wing collar were abolished for mess undress in the 1960s, and were made optional for mess dress in the 1990s.
[edit] Red Sea rig
In tropical areas, primarily in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities, the jacket and waistcoat are sometimes omitted and a cummerbund substituted. This form of black tie is known as Red Sea rig.
[edit] West Coast Black Tie
West Coast Black Tie is an American formal social occasion where a wide variety of formal evening dress colours and suit styles is acceptable. Likely originating in the Hollywood movie business, it currently is used broadly throughout California to accommodate the personal whims of the wearer. Variations include mandarin collars, Nehru jackets, silver or gold neckties, open collars, and other items which may be considered un-traditional, declassé, and faddish. In this style of evening dress, besides the bow tie, the four-in-hand-knotted long necktie is common evening wear.[citation needed]
[edit] Scottish Highland dress
Scottish Highland dress is often worn to black- and white tie occasions, especially at Scottish reels and céilidhs; the black tie version is more common, even at white tie occasions. Traditionally, black tie Scots Highland dress comprises:
- Black jacket — Prince Charlie, Duke of Montrose, Sheriffmuir, Argyll, Regulation Doublet, and Brian Boru are suitable (a black or red mess jacket is also an option)
- Black waistcoat
- Kilt
- White shirt
- Black bow tie
- Black Ghillie brogues or black dress shoes
- Kilt hose (monochrome, diced, tartan)
- Flashes
- Dress sporran
- Skean dubh (optional)
- Dirk (optional)
Traditional black tie Lowland dress comprises: black tie variant of the normal black tie, with tartan trews worn with a normal dinner jacket or a Prince Charlie jacket; trews are often worn in summer and warm climes.
The white tie equivalent is a white bow tie or a lace jabot over a collarless shirt. Regulation Doublets, Prince Charlie, Duke of Montrose, Sheriffmuir, and Argyll jackets are suitable.
[edit] See also
[edit] External links
- The Black Tie Guide provides extensive background and references for most topics in this article
- The Emily Post Institute provides a breakdown of traditional categories of progressing formality in dress for men & women.
