Bezel setting
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The earliest method of setting gemstones into jewelry was the technique known as bezel setting. The bezel is simply a band of metal which is shaped into the size and shape of the gem and then soldered into place on the metal of the jewelry. The next step is to place the prepared stone into the bezel, or metal band and the metal is pressed down over the edges of diamond which locks it into place.
A cabochon stone, which is a gemstone that is not faceted, usually relies on the shallow angle cut into the side of the stone which helps the metal to stay in place. With a clear faceted stone, such as a diamond, a shallow groove is cut into the bezel itself. The girdle or widest part of the gem stone is placed in the girdle and the metal bezel is pushed down over the girdle. It is the pressure of the bezel over the edge of the diamond which keeps it in place.
Diamond rings with a bezel setting are also called a rub-over settings. These diamond rings feature a diamond gem stone completely surrounded by a precious metal band which fastens the diamond securely into place. Bezel settings use a type of elevated collar which wraps the rim of the diamond in a complete metal edging. This type of diamond rings setting is the most secure fastener for the stones. The bezel setting also protects the diamond better than other types of settings, such as the prong setting. A flush setting for diamond rings is a variation on the rub-over or bezel setting. In the flush setting, the stone is placed into an opening and affixed at the bottom of the stone. The top of the diamond is extended above the base.
Diamond rings with bezel settings give the rings a more elegant, understated and streamlined appearance..
One of the major advantages to the bezel setting is that the diamond is better protected from accidental rubbing or blows. At the same time, a bezel setting is less likely to allow the diamond or engagement rings to scratch or mar something which it comes in contact with. Since the bezel setting is more secure, a person who is in an active occupation, or who wants to wear diamond rings while enjoying active recreational activities may want to consider selecting this type of setting rather than the prong setting.
Many high end watch manufacturers such as Rolex, Breitling, and Jacob & co., include glorious bezels with diamond settings on their watches.
