Artificial hair integrations

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Artificial hair integrations are used by many people around the world to add length, fullness, texture or color to one's own natural hair. Reasons for using integrations vary from medical to purely cosmetic. The use of integrations, or extensions, as they are commonly known, is popular among many different ethnic and social groups.

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[edit] Types of hair fibers

Hair extensions are made from a range of human and synthetic fibers. Synthetic fibers include Kanekalon and Toyokalon, and can differ from brand to brand. Synthetic hair in general is less expensive than human hair, and is available in a wide array of colors and textures, from natural to extraordinary. Human hair is available in many different grades, and is usually advertised by ethnic origin; India, China and other Asian countries are the top suppliers for 'virgin', or unprocessed hair. Eastern European countries are the source of 'caucasian' hair. Whether human or synthetic, the hair available is produced in several ways:

[edit] Bulk hair

Bulk hair is hair which is not attached to a weft track, thus is usually looped, doubled over, or loosely braided for ease of use. This hair can be used for a variety of things, from braids, loose extensions or dreadlocks. Synthetic loose fibers include 'Jumbo Braid'; this is a type of hair with a kinky texture, that is popular in braided extensions. Loose human hair is generally used for a single-point bonding, where the extensionist creates singe loose extensions either using metal rings, wax or glue.

[edit] Wefts

Extensions are commonly sold in the form of a weft, often called 'tracks'. There is stitching at the top of the weft, bonding the hair to a thin ribbon, or in the hand-sewn wefts, the hair is bonded only to itself, and from there the hair hangs loose. The stitching is either sewn on a machine or made by "hand". The two differ in the stitching. The "hand made" stitch is typically thinner and more delicate, hence more expensive than the machine made. The hair attached to the weft can be human or synthetic hair of any texture, and almost any color. The wefts often come in approximately 42 inches (little over 1 meter) and the length of the attached hair varies from approximately 14 inches up to 26 inches. Usually the wefts can be cut into smaller sections without detangling the stitch. Wefts are used primarily in weaves, and also in 'crocheted' styles.

[edit] Color, texture and quality

Color

Manufacturers of artificial hair use a standard scale to classify the hair by color. The lower the number on the package, generally, the darker the color. 0 usually denotes darkest black. These colors vary greatly from one manufacturer to another, and certain speciality hair suppliers also create their own signature patterns and colors.

The standard colors in the industry are summed up in this chart: Hair Extension Color Chart.

Texture

Textures of artificial hair vary from pin-straight to extremely curly or kinky. The exact names of curl patterns vary by brand, and the possibilities of curl patterns with synthetic hair are endless, but some examples of packaged textures include:

  • Yaki - Bone straight, usually mimicking the straightness of Asian hair.
  • European. - More natural-looking straight hair. May have a tiny amount of wave.
  • Deep Wave. - While generally not a true 'wave', it can be made to look like spiral curls.
  • Loose Deep Wave or Romance Wave - Looser version of the deep wave, softer, more romantic curls.
  • Jheri Curl (sometimes colloquially known as 'nappy tracks') - Usually sold in very short lengths, it is often used to recreate the full 'afro' look.
  • Wet and Wavy , can be packaged as Spanish Wave or Indian Wave - Usually human hair is used, and is either naturally curly or permanently waved to appear so. Characterized as having soft, natural-looking curls that revert back to a curly state when wet.

Quality

The quality of the hair is often specified.

  • Virgin hair indicates that the hair hasn't been colored or processed in any way. The "virgin hair" is collected from one person only and comes in a bulk, not in wefts or strands.
  • Remi (=Remy) is a term used when all of the hair is human plus when 'close to' all of the strands (eg. in one weft) are strictly organised with the roots in one direction and the tip to the opposite end. Remi hair in general last much longer than non-remi and tends to stay shiny and "tangle free" longer. This is based on the fact that every strand of hair is biologically keratinized skin cells organized in layers overlapping one another.

Moreover the quality of human hair is graded with capital letters starting with top quality AAAA+.

[edit] Methods of integration

The misnomer of 'tracks' comes from the common, long-lasting method of integrating wefts, known as the 'track and sew' method. The 'tracks' are usually cornrows, braided in the direction of how the hair will fall. Toward the face or away, with or without a part, the tracks build the foundation of how the end result will look. The wefts are then sewn onto the braids, usually with a specially made, blunt-ended needle. The needle can be curved or straight. There are many different colors of specially-made thread to choose from, depending on what color of hair you will be integrating. Darker hair lends to darker thread. It should also be noted that when the hair is braided at a high level of tension, the client is at risk for traction alopecia.

Wefts may also be bonded directly to the clients hair using special bonding glue. Care must be taken not to bond the wefts directly to the scalp, as it can cause sensitivities in some clients. A patch test is frequently recommended, as per manufacturer's directions(MFD).

Infrequently, wefts may be clipped in, with specially made clips sewn to the wefts themselves. This makes for a more temporary style, and is easily removed. Clipped-in wefts may add temporary color, length or fullness perhaps for a single event, such as a prom or wedding.

Bulk hair can also be bonded to the hair, using many different methods: from clips to adhesive.

[edit] Shampooing and styling of integrations

Shampooing of artificial hair integrations can be as easy as shampooing real hair, with some considerations. For instance, many manufacturers suggest using a mild shampoo, or even a wig shampoo.

The MFD indicates what shampoo to use; the methods of brushing, combing and drying that are most advisable; and what heat setting to use when drying the hair, or if it is even advisable to do so.

Most human hair extensions can be treated as real hair, albeit more gently. Since human hair extensions are usually heavily processed to achieve uniform color and texture, a mild shampoo is recommended, along with a light conditioner to reduce tangling. Cool water is recommended when shampooing, to reduce or prevent matting and excessive tangling. Having to remove snarls and tangles loosens the foundation of the integrations and further damages the hair.

The same care taken when shampooing must also be used when styling artificial hair. It's often recommended that the texture of hair purchased should be the style in which the hair is worn. Using heat to straighten curly hair, or to curl straight hair, damages it. The more damage the hair sustains, the shorter the lifespan of the artificial hair.

Synthetic hair, and blends of synthetic hair and human hair, should be treated extremely gently, when it comes to heat styling. Many times it is completely inadvisable. Depending on the type of synthetic fiber, heat processing is possible at an extremely low heat. However, most synthetics will melt, burn or warp when subjected to the heat of a curling iron, flat iron, or blow-dryer. Some companies do manufacture more resistant, human-like hair that can be heat processed.

[edit] Removal methods

Sewn-in integrations must be removed by cutting the thread that attaches it to the cornrow. Care must be taken to snip only the thread, and not the client's hair. Care must also be taken not to leave the wefts sewn in for so long as to cause the hair to mat around the thread.

Bonded integrations are removable based upon the method of bonding. Bonded wefts can be removed with special bonding-glue removers, allowing the remover to penetrate and break down the latex in the glue. Usually these removers have a high content of oil, dissolving adhesive, so a less-expensive alternative can be baby oil.

Some bonded integrations can be shampooed out, depending on the strength of the adhesive, though it's less common, being that the integrations don't last very long.

Bulk hair that has been bonded with clips or beads of adhesive should generally be removed by the same technician that attached them, or someone similarly trained.

Simply 'pulling out' bonded integrations can result in damage to the underlying natural hair, even alopecia.

[edit] Sources

  • Alpert, Arlene; Milady Publishing Company (2002). Milady's Standard Cosmetology. Milady Publishing Company. ISBN 978-1562538798. 

[edit] External links