Ambiaty

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Ambiaty Extract can only be obtained from the high planes of Madagascar and originates from the leaves of Vernonia appendiculata, a type of plant from the Asteraceae family (or Compositae, known as the aster, daisy, or sunflower family), the largest family of flowering plants in terms of number of species. ^[1]

Villagers travel by foot to remote regions and gather Ambiaty by hand. Only one crop is harvested a year, making it available in very limited supply. ^[2]

Focused on skin anti-aging, Ambiaty extract firms the skin and improves skin suppleness due to its dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) and dermis strengthening properties. It also improves skin radiance by its activation of the DEJ components, leading to increased DEJ functionality as well as protecting cells (and collagen) from anti-oxidants and Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).^[3]

HISTORY

Vernonia appendiculata leaves are traditionally used in healthcare. It is known to be helpful for wound healing. Ashes from the plant roots may have charm properties according to legends and are introduced in talismans or pillows in Hoodoo – the magico-botanical art corresponding to African traditional folk magic. ^[4]

ANTI-AGING EFFECTS

The DEJ is first a support for the epidermis. It also gives structure to the skin due to its high Collagen IV content and aids skin communication between the papillar dermis and the epidermis. Finally, it is essential for skin cohesion between the epidermis and dermis. Aging impacts the DEJ in all its functions, with the flattening of the DEJ leading to fewer exchanges between the epidermis and dermis, wrinkle formation and weakened epidermal support. ^[5]

The main active substances of Ambiaty Extract are chlorogenic acid and isochlorogenic acid. A patent application has been submitted regarding the properties of the Ambiaty extract that have been discovered for the repair of the DEJ, activation of the dermis and the related cosmetic claims.^[6]

Ambiaty extract targets both the epidermis and dermis for improvement of the skin’s condition thanks to the reinforcement of the DEJ and the strengthening and protection of the dermal ECM (extracellular matrix) and Collagen network. Tests performed in vitro or ex vivo show clearly the increase of the synthesis of the proteins typical of the DEJ and the dermis structures (Collagen IV, Laminin 5, GAGs) as well as the regulation of the damaging effects of free radicals and MMPs.^[7]

More specifically, Ambiaty targets keratinocytes by increasing their synthesis of cytokeratin 14 and Laminin 5. This results in a reinforced epidermal attachment to the DEJ and restores the functional interface (communication and nutrition) between the epidermis and dermis. Ambiaty also targets fibroblasts by activating collagen synthesis (230%), which results in firmer, smoother, more supple skin. Ambiaty is also a powerful anti-oxidant, so it is able to protect cells (and collagen) from free radical attack and MMPs.^[8]

If skin biopsies are treated with a 1% Ambiaty Extract emulsion, positive effects are seen after 10 application days. For example, stimulation of cytokeratin 14, Laminin 5, Collagen IV and glucosaminoglycan (GAGs) synthesis were demonstrated.^[9]

Using Ambiaty Extract can achieve an improvement in the skin cohesion and a fortification of the boundary between the epidermis and dermis. As such, the ageing processes of the skin can be countered at a cellular level.

SUSTAINABLE HARVESTING

Ambiaty collection by Bayer Sante Familiale – Division Serdex, must meet several technical challenges when it comes to plant collection:

The first is of a quantitative nature: To produce approximately 1 kg of pure molecules, more than 140 kg of fresh leaves must be collected. The challenge is collecting a sufficient quantity of plants each year to produce several tons of molecules, without threatening their renewal or modifying the ecosystem to which they belong.^[10]

The second, more qualitative challenge consists in collecting a plant which is rich in active ingredients. The biosynthesis of these active ingredients depends on numerous environmental factors (seasons, temperature, humidity, altitude, soil quality, etc.). Criteria must be established for selecting a plant at its climax, when it contains a maximum of active ingredients. This is an essential condition for a good productivity of industrial transformation.^[11]

The third concerns the preservation of the active ingredients: It is important to avoid the enzymatic degradation of these active ingredients, which become more fragile once the plant has been harvested.^[12]

Finally, the fourth challenge consists in complying with pharmaceutical quality rules: It must be determined how full traceability of the manufacture can be guaranteed, going back to the detailed knowledge of each batch of plants collected.^[13]

The Good Collecting Practices that have been established and implemented in Madagascar have helped address these challenges. These practices cover each step from the living plant to the dried plant delivered to the factory. For example, they include:

> Conditions for starting collection Plant samples are taken on the usual collection zones from the beginning of the wet season (September – October). Their active molecule content is systematically tested. When they reach a sufficiently high level, Quality Control gives the go-ahead to start collection.^[14]

> Specifications of the plants Precise purchase rules are established. For example, no plants with roots are bought, in order not to compromise regrowth; the leaves must be harvested with a stem of approximately 3 cm which gives the leaves enough sap to be kept without degradation for 48 hours.^[15]

> Drying conditions They are well defined (temperature, duration) to guarantee the stability of the active ingredients prior to extraction.^[16]

> The packaging practices They are also well defined: removal of stones for safety reasons, protection during transport, analytical reports for each batch guaranteeing traceability, etc.^[17]

FAIR TRADE AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

Plant collection provides a regular income to families and villages who participate and contributes to the sustainable development of these communities through increased schooling of children.^[18]

Investigations carried out by the Madagascar government on the schooling of children have shown considerable sensitivity of the schooling levels to the cost of school supplies.^[19] Therefore, a premium per kg is added to the purchase price of the plant, which will go to purchasing school supplies distributed to the children of the villages in the collection zone, thus relieving the burden on the parents and favoring schooling of children, confirming the function of the additional income provided by the plant.^[20]

In parallel, Madagascar, due to continued strong demographic growth, is largely under-equipped in schools. Each year the building of new classrooms is financed, which complete this process in favor of sustainable developments through the elimination of illiteracy and education.^[21]

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