Alex­ander Burgener

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Alex­ander Burgener (1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, nr the Berglihüt­te) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps in the period following the golden age of alpinism.

Together with Albert Mummery he made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn on 3 September 1879, and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon (5 August 1881) in the Mont Blanc Massif. With another British alpinist, Clinton Thomas Dent, he made the first ascent of the Lenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878),

He was killed by an avalanche on 8 July 1910 near the Berglihüt­te in the Bernese Alps.

[edit] First ascents

• Lenzspitze, 1870
• Portjengrat, 1871
• Grand Dru, 1878
• Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn, 1879
• Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1880
• Grands Charmoz, 1880
• Charpoua face of the Aiguille Verte, 1881
• Aiguille du Grépon, 1881
• Frontier ridge of Mont Maudit, 1887
• Teufelsgrat of Täschhorn, 1887

[edit] Bibliography

• Fux, A., Alexander Burgener, König der Bergführer. Bern, Verlag Hallwag, 1961.
• Mummery, A. F., My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus, Rockbuy Limited. ISBN 1-904466-09-5

[edit] External links

• Alex­ander Burgener in German, French and Italian in the online Historical Dictionary of Switzerland.