Adolphe Dugléré
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Adolphe Dugléré (born Bordeaux, June 3, 1805 - died Paris April 4, 1884) was a French chef and a pupil of Carême. In 1866 he became the head chef of the Café Anglais which was the most famous Paris restaurant of the 19th century and where he is believed to have created the dish Pommes Anna. The Café Anglais was named in honour of the peace treaty which had recently been signed between Britain and France. It was also here in 1867 that he served a famous meal that became known as the 'Dinner of the Three Emperors,' for Tsar Alexander II of Russia, his son (who later became Tsar Alexander III) and King William I of Prussia. The table service used for this meal is on display to this day at the oldest existing restaurant in Paris, La Tour d'Argent which is owned by the descendants of the original owner of Café Anglais which was demolished in 1913. Dugléré also became manager at the restaurant Les Freres Provencaux at the Palais Royal as well as becoming chef de cuisine of the Rothschild family.[1]
Other dishes created by Dugléré include Potage Germiny, created for the Count of Germiny, Poularde Albufera, Soufflé à la Anglaise and Sole Dugléré. He is also credited with inventing Tournedos Rossini, but this dish has also been credited to both Escoffier as well as Carême himself (although not the title itself). It was composer Gioachino Rossini who dubbed Dugléré Le Mozart de la cuisine (The Mozart of the Kitchen). Legend has it that on one occasion Rossini was in the restaurant and asked that Dugléré prepare his filet at his table in a chafing dish. Dugléré made some excuse and Rossini is reported to have said, "Eh bien, faites-le tourné de l'autre coté, tournez-moi le dos!" ("Alright, do it somewhere else. Turn your back on me!")[2] However, the OED gives a number of different claims for the origin of the term tournedos.
He was described as a taciturn and serious person who demanded ingredients of the highest quality and abhorred drunkeness and smoking. (He forbade his employees to smoke even outside of the workplace.) He was a cultivated man and Alexandre Dumas consulted him several times for his Le Grand dictionnaire de cuisine (1871). Little more is known about him because he left no publications but he did leave some notebooks which are on permanent loan to the National Library in Paris.[3] On his death in 1884, the French press was unanimous in eulogizing him.[4]
[edit] Dishes
Sole à la Dugléré consists of fish poached in a fish fumet with white wine on a bed of tomates concassées, minced onion and shallots and chopped parsley. It is served with a beurre blanc consisting of the cooking liquid mounted with butter.
[edit] The Dinner of the Three Emperors
MENU [1]
Impératrice Relevés Soufflé à la Reine Entrées Poulet à la Portugaise Rôts Canetons à la Rouennaise Entremets Aubergines à l'Espagnole VINS Madère retour de l'Inde 1810 |
[edit] External Links
- ^ a b *Enyclopedia Britannica online
- ^ Jaime Ariansen Céspedes, Adolphe Dugléré - El Mozart de la cocína
- ^ Daniel Rogov
- ^ *Chef Simon, La Cuisine dans tout ses étasts.