Action Directe (climb)
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Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
It has been climbed by ten people.
The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995
- Iker Pou on 7 June 2000
- Dave Graham on 21 May 2001
- Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003
- Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005
- Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005
- Markus Bock on 22 October 2005
- Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
- Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008.
Despite being generally recognized as the world's first 9a, Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI, which corresponds to 8c+/5.14c.
It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route.
[edit] External links
- 3rd ascent and picture
- 4th ascent
- 5th ascent
- 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
- 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
- 8th ascent by Markus Bock
- 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber
- 10th ascent by Adam Ondra
INTERVIEWS
