St Mary in Castro, Dover
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St Mary in Castro or St Mary de Castro is a church at Dover Castle.
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[edit] History
[edit] Saxon
[edit] 600
A church is recorded as having been built 'within the castle' ('in castra') by Eadbald of Kent in the 630s. However, it is unclear whether this means within a Saxon burgh here on the Eastern Heights (which is generally dated later than this) or within the ruins of the old Roman fortifications in the valley. The large late Saxon cemetery around the present church suggests the 600 church’s existence, but not definitively.
[edit] 1000
Whether it has an earlier predecessor or not, the present church is a much-restored example of a Saxon church dating from around 1000 AD, with the earliest door arch of any standing church in England. It was sited here to use the Pharos as its bell tower and as a source of spolia (Roman tiles are still to be seen in its fabric). It is cruciform in plan, with an aisle less nave broader than the chancel and transepts, and a central tower (the same width as the nave). It stands on a projecting plinth of plain square section constructed mainly with large stone blocks, but its walls are of flint and tile and its window arches of tile, all mined from the Pharos and possibly the earlier church.
[edit] Medieval rebuilds
Probably at the end of the twelfth century an Early English vault was added to the existing chancel and an altar recess was made at the southeast corner of the nave. As part of his building works at the castle, in 1226 Henry III of England instructed the church be repaired and in 1247 ordered three altars to be built and dedicated to St. Edmund, St. Adrian and St. Edward and images of these saints and of St. John the Evangelist to be made. In 1252 three bells were cast at Canterbury to be hung in the tower. As ever, the Pharos was used as a bell tower and was connected to the church via a new short passage.
At some time between 1324 and 1334 a painter named John of Maidstone repainted the church. Two new bells were cast in 1345 at a cost of £15 18s. 5¼d. These weighed 4266 lb. and 1078 lb. In 1494 Sir Edward Poynings, probably acting as deputy to the then Constable, Prince Henry, spent over £36 on the church and keep, although how much of that the church received is unknown.
[edit] Neglect
Between 1555 and 1557 the church was secured, as it was about to collapse through want of repair. In 1576 it was recommended that the chancel be repaired in stone, the windows glazed and seats be provided so that men could hear the service. In 1582 fourteen small chairs were finally purchased.
In 1690 public worship in the church ceased although soldiers continued to be buried in the churchyard for a time. In 1780 it was converted into a cooperage and storehouse but in 1801 it collapsed, and by 1808 it had become a coal store.
[edit] Victorian rebuild
After many years of use as a coal store the church was first restored by George Gilbert Scott between 1860 and 1862, and later by William Butterfield in 1888. This later restoration was less sympathetic than Scott's and involved the completion of the tower, the mosaic work in the nave and the building of a vestry.
[edit] Today
Today Saint Mary in Castro is still a thriving church serving the Army and local people, and is the Dover Garrison Church.
[edit] Dover Castle Statutes
The Dover Castle Statutes of 1267 on display in Saint Mary in Castro offer a fascinating insight into life in Dover Castle during the medieval age. The Statutes demand order and discipline from the guards, with heavy penalties imposed on any who swear or brawl; they lay-out explicit plans for ceremonies, religious or otherwise, and the ringing of bells; and they detail procedures for deaths, festivals. A copy of the script can be found here
[edit] Description of the present church
The 28 feet high crossing arches appear to be original, and have strip work of projecting tiles outlining the arches on their western faces. Unusual double splayed round-headed windows pierce the north and south walls of the nave. A pair of double splayed flat-headed windows nears the west end of the side walls of the nave are suggested by Scott to indicate that space was needed for a west gallery. Whilst restoring the church Scott found further evidence of this gallery in the form of holes in the walls for the insertion of supporting timbers. Access to the nave from the south was by way of a tall round-headed doorway with through stone facing of alternate upright and flat slabs. This doorway is now blocked and little of its original outlining strip work remains.
