Talk:Prusik
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[edit] Move under Prusik
About proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick):
Yes! Let's put the material under "Prusik" with links from other spellings.
grogono (March 1st 2006)
Comments about proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick):
10-31-05 I beefed up the article on Prusiks under this article 'Prussik', and incorporated most of the information from the longer-running article "Prusik_knot". The preferred spelling is Prusik, but Prussik is also in common usage. Probably the best thing would be to move the current (merged) article under "Prussik" into "Prusik_knot", capturing the history from there also, and have a bunch of redirects into it from: Prussik, Prusik, Prussik_knot, Prussik_hitch, Prusik_hitch.
ratagonia
Removed from article. Replaced by "When to Carry" section - Charlie Williams
[edit] Fashion (Controversial)
Prusiks are carried by some climbers and not carried by others. They are fashionable in an anti-fashion sense - being popular among (less-fashionable) Trad Climbers and disdained by more fashionable Sport Climbers. They are a popular technique to teach at college outing club and large mountain club groups. Choosing to carry prusik loops is a personal choice, and does not differentiate more-skilled or more-prepared climbers from less-skilled or less-prepared, though proponents and opponents may argue otherwise. End Quote
Yes, thank you, that paragraph was not very good. I re-wrote and expanded your re-write, trying to get to a NPV. Denigrated the rappel backup ABOVE (see Storrick link), edited the language a fair amount.
198.60.22.24 03:36, 24 December 2005 (UTC) ratagonia
[edit] Self-Belay Above The Device
I just recently reverted a change to the "Self-Delay Above The Device" entry in the "Applications" section.
An anonymous user at 198.60.22.24 had removed the following text:
"This configuration allows for easier and faster transition from rappeling to climbing the rope, but can also result in the prusik locking tight as the amount of friction required to hold the load at that point is far higher than that experienced by a self-belay below the device"
and had replaced it with
"This technique has been demonstrated to be both ineffective and dangerous, and is no longer used"
I reverted this change as this technique is still both trained and precticed by a number of organisations and individuals (including professional mountaineering schools) and as such instead of simply stating that it is no longer used (which is false), I believe that highlighting the possible drawbacks of that technique is far more inline with the ideals of Wikipedia. Further there were no references to sources confirming this statement - I have used it numerous times and have not found it to be dangerous nor ineffective, as I am still here!
Anyone caring to contribute? --Lucanos 05:53, 24 December 2005 (UTC)
That was me, Lucanos, and while I adamantly disagree with it's safety, the Wiki is not the place to fight it out, now is it. (Now that I know how to use the stamp:) Ratagonia 03:21, 16 March 2006 (UTC)
I respect your right to disagree with the safety of that technique, however to state that it is unsafe and no longer used without reference or resources to support that statement is not what Wikipedia is for either. I was trained in the use of that technique at the Australian School of Mountaineering, and it is still a valid and actively trained and utilised technique. The edit you made indicated that this technique is no longer used anywhere, and that, simply, is incorrect.
--Lucanos 09:31, 24 March 2006 (UTC)
[edit] Prussik in image is made of Spectra
The webbing used in the photos in this article is made of Spectra/Dyneema (different brand name, same thing). Spectra slings/webbing should not be used for prussiks.
I've been rock climbing for 9 years, if that's not a spectra sling then it sure fooled me. Nylon slings tend to be one color with little to no patterns. Spectra slings are thinner, shinier and are patterned - generally with a combination of white (the spectra) and some other color (some nylon).
Here's a link a photo of a traditional nylon sling http://www.bdel.com/images/gear/nylon_runners.jpg
And here's a patterned nylon sling sewn into a daisy chain http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/imgs/1743i1244.jpg
And a here's a Dyneema/Spectra sewn into a daisy chain http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/imgs/1743i1245.jpg
As the article states, "some suggest avoiding spectra slings, due to their high potential for melting when the hitch slips." I would be more emphatic than that. I've never heard anyone say anything other than "Don't Do It!" when it comes to making a prussik out of spectra webbing. Here's a link to a "Tech Tip" from "Climbing" magazine discussing rappel backup techniques, notice their comment re: prussik construction, "don’t use Spectra webbing."
http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tttrad224/
Will24.92.249.105 06:15, 3 April 2007 (UTC)
- Yes, it is a 50% spectra, 50% nylon sling. Yes, you have found a RS WP:RS that says you should not use spectra. The pictures shown are not very good. If you have the time and capability, it would be great if you could make, upload and license, and link better pictures. Using a traditional cord prusik would be the best idea, I think.
- Personally, I usually use 50% spectra slings for prusiks and other ascending knots, because they work better (better ratio of grip to release). however, my personal experience is not a RS. They work great. No, they don't melt through, but then again, I have never 'ridden' an ascending knot more than an inch or two. Ratagonia 18:00, 3 April 2007 (UTC)
