Potrero Chico
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El Potrero Chico is an internationally renowned rock climbing area in the Mexican state of Nuevo León, 3 km outside the town of Hidalgo. Long a destination for rock-climbers from around the world, Canadian John Weir brought donated used climbing gear to the community of Hidalgo so that local children would have the opportunity to climb. Climbers from Austin, Texas started developing the area back in the 1990s. The climbs are mostly situated at the entrance of the park, while the interior offers undeveloped mountain terrain with lots of good mountain biking, ranging from very easy to expert routes .
El Potrero draws many climbers from throughout Mexico. It is considered one of the top 10 locations to sport climb in the world. In addition to well over 500 routes, the area boasts the longest sport route in North America, Timewave Zero, ringing in at 23 pitches and over 2000 feet. New routes are continuously being developed. There is a large range of different climbs, most of them in the 5.8 to 5.13 grade. The type of climbing can range from steep overhanging face to easy slab. The rock is usually quite sharp.
El Potrero is a unique geological formation of limestone cliffs, some as high as 2000 feet. Currently, the land is protected as a national park. After the Mexican Revolution of 1910, the land within the park was divided amongst the townspeople as per the ejido system. Most of the climbs are situated in a canyon at the entrance of the park.
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[edit] Main climbing areas
Las Estrellas: Located on the east side of the main canyon. 5.9 to 5.12. Mostly single pitch climbs.
Club Mex:
Mini super Wall: Directly across from the Central Scrutinizer Wall. The first hand full of climbs encountered here are good warm up routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.9+. The route El Volvo Scorcho (5.9 and requires 9 quickdraws) is named after the car accident that almost killed the first accentionist, Dane Bass.
Mota Wall: Easily accessed area. Lots of easy to medium range climbs
Mileski Wall: Above the Mota Wall. Hard overhanging climbs.
The spires: Very popular areas. Two rock horns about 200' tall on the west side of the canyon.
Outrage Wall: Lots of beautiful climbs in the mid 10s to 12 range.
The Surf: 15 minutes walk from the spires, hard overhanging from 5.12A to 5.13B
Central Srutinizer, Virgin canyon: West of the canyon
El Sendero Luminoso: This area is found before entering the main canyon, on the west side. It is were the climb El Sendero Luminoso, possibly the hardest multipitch climb in Mexico, is situated (15 pitch, 5.12+).
Sense of Religion: One of the farthest areas from the main gate. You must pass a "toll" in order to access the wall. Typically ten pesos per person ($1USD) is charged but sometimes no toll is collected at all. Mota Wall, one of the most popular walls is located on the Lower Sense of Religion. Mota Wall houses many of the classic climbs at El Potrero such as La Vaca and Double Cherry Pie.
[edit] Weather
The temperature can vary quite a lot from day to day and from sunny to shady areas. During the summer months however, it is recommended to climb in the shade only. Because of the shape of the canyon, it is always possible to find a shady area. In the winter months, the usually daily high is about 18 degrees Celsius yet some days it can reach close to 25 degrees. The low is usually about 5-10 degrees but snow is always possible.
[edit] Multi-Pitch Climbs
Yankee Clipper - 15 Pitches (5.8 to 5.12c)
Snott Girlz - 7 Pitches (5.9 to 5.10+)
Timewave Zero - 23 Pitches (5.7 to 5.12)
Pancho Villa Rides Again - 5 Pitches (5.9 to 5.11d)
Treasure of Sierra Madre - 7 Pitches (5.7 to 5.10c)
Estrellita - 12 Pitches (5.7 to 5.10b)
Agua De Coco - 3 Pitches (5.10a to 5.10d)
Black Cat Bone - 9 Pitches (5.6 to 5.10d)
[edit] Accommodations
Quite a few camping areas just outside the park are available for about 3-5$ a night. Free camping is also possible in the park.
