North Head, New Zealand

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North Head as seen from the south from Tamaki Drive. To the west, Mount Victoria is visible.
North Head as seen from the south from Tamaki Drive. To the west, Mount Victoria is visible.
The disappearing gun of the South Battery.
The disappearing gun of the South Battery.

North Head (or Maungauika, the Mountain of Uika in Māori[1]) is a volcanic headland within North Shore City, New Zealand, in the suburb of Devonport at the east end of the Waitemata Harbour (Auckland's harbour).

It is a public reserve known for its sweeping views over the harbour and the Hauraki Gulf. During the last century it was mainly used by the military, which left behind a large network of accessible old bunkers and tunnels, forming part of the attraction.

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[edit] History

[edit] Māori usage

The original scoria cone has been substantially altered, first by marine erosion and later by the various generations of people who have occupied the headland. It was first used by Māori, one of whose ancestral waka canoes was reputed to have put ashore close by.[citation needed] Some early photographs of the area show that they used to work gardens on the hill's lower slopes, though the fortifications of other cones in the area seem absent. European visitors during the 1850s have also described a settlement at the foot of the hill with gardens and racks for the drying of fish.[1]

[edit] Military usage

One of North Head's tunnels.
One of North Head's tunnels.

The settlement of Auckland saw the area used as the first pilot station for the guiding of ships into the harbour. In 1878, the area was then set aside as a public reserve - under the stipulation that if necessary, it could be re-appropriated and used for defense purposes by the New Zealand Army. In 1885, this then became reality, with the Russian scare reaching its height and forts being built in various places around Auckland, to deter the anticipated invaders from the far north.[1]

Three large gun batteries were erected: North battery facing over the Rangitoto Channel, South Battery facing over the inner harbour and Summit / Cautley Battery on the top of the hill. These first fortifications were hastily constructed, but later expanded and strengthened over 25 years by convict labor of up to 40 prisoners living in a barracks on the hilltop. They added extensive tunnel systems, underground store rooms and various obeservation points. The armaments of the fort included 64 pound Armstrong disappearing guns), search lights and a remote-detonated naval minefield across the inner harbour to Bastion Point. None of the armaments were ever used in anger.[1] A four-gun memorial saluting battery of 18 pounds World War I field guns was used, among other occasions, to salute Elizabeth II on her visit in 1953.[2]

In the 1930s, part of the fort was modernised, and during World War II, it became the administrative centre of Auckland's coast defenses, with the regimental headquarter buildings still surviving today. The coast defenses were scrapped in 1950, though one of the disappearing guns remained behind - obsolete and too difficult for the scrap merchant who bought it to dissemble and remove.[3] After the army had left, the area was turned into a reserve again, though the New Zealand Navy kept an area around the summit for a training school.[1]

[edit] Modern usage

After the Navy school left the summit areas in 1996, the whole area is now administered by the Department of Conservation. as a reserve, and provides for beautiful walks along the waterline or onto the summit with good views of Rangitoto and Auckland due the prominent height of the hill. Also popular are exploratory forays to the gun emplacements and into the tunnel system, which is open to the public to a substantial degree, though torches are needed to explore it.

In the late 1980s and early 1990s there were reports of strange chemical smells and rumors of hidden caverns underneath the hill. Some tales even told of airplanes hidden in secret storerooms. As it was feared that old ammunition was decaying in forgotten parts of the fortifications, a major investigation was started, involving documentary research, geological tests and substantial exploratory digging was done around the hill. The research however, found little of new import.[1][2]

[edit] References

  1. ^ a b c d e f North Head Historic Reserve: History of the reserve (from the DOC website)
  2. ^ a b Information provided on various plaques around North Head (set up by the DOC)
  3. ^ Disappearing Guns - Ruffell, Wally; Royal New Zealand Artillery Old Comrades' Association websie