Mount Stimson

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Mount Stimson
Mount Stimson
Elevation	10,142 ft (3,091 m)
Location	Montana, USA
Range	Lewis Range
Prominence	4,269 ft (1,301 m)
Coordinates	48°30′52″N, 113°36′37″W
Topo map	USGS Mount Stimson
First ascent	1951 (first recorded ascent)
Easiest route	Hike/scramble (Class 3/4)

Mount Stimson is the second highest peak in Glacier National Park, located in Montana, United States. It is part of the Lewis Range, which spans much of the park. It is located in the remote southwestern portion of the park, approximately 5 miles (8 km) west of the Continental Divide and 12 miles (19 km) southeast of Lake McDonald. It is drained by Pinchot Creek (on the south) and Nyack Creek (on the other sides), both of which flow into the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. The mountain is named for Henry L. Stimson (1867 – 1950), former U.S. Secretary of State.

Mount Stimson is notable for its large, steep rise above local terrain. For example, its northwest face rises over 6200 ft (1890 m) from Nyack Creek in only 1.8 mi (9,500 ft/2.9 km). This makes it "truly a monster of a mountain." (Edwards 1995:329). It is also notable for its isolation; it is one of the furthest peaks from a roadhead in the park.

The first recorded ascent of Mount Stimson was in 1951, by J. Gordon Edwards and Alice Edwards; however they found clear evidence of a previous ascent. The standard route of ascent is the West (or Northwest) Face Route, starting from Nyack Creek. (A backpacking trail runs along Nyack Creek, providing access; however the Park Service warns that this is a more brushy and isolated trail than in other areas of the park, with numerous unbridged stream crossings. As in the rest of the park, grizzly bears are an issue as well.) The climbing route begins with "tiresome uphill bushwhacking...for possibly three hours" leading to alternating slopes and cliffs (Grades 3 and 4). (Edwards 1995:330) Other routes on the peak include the Southeast Spur (from Martha's Basin) and the Pinchot Creek Route (from the south).