List of climbers
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This list of climbers includes both mountaineers and rock climbers, since many (though not all) climbers engage in both types of activities. The list also includes boulderers and ice climbers.
Contents: Top - 0–9 A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
[edit] A
- Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (1906-1992). Russia. Lenin Peak (1934), Khan Tengri (1936).
- Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907-1948). Russia. Communism Peak (1933).
- Louis Agassiz (1807–1873) Switzerland/United States. Published seminal work on Glaciology in 1840, based on studies in the Alps.
- Robert Alexander (born 1960) United States. First Ascents at Joshua Tree National Park. Professional guide. Established Outdoor Program at Cal State University at Monterey Bay.
- Pierre Allain (1904–2000) French alpinist who championed bouldering at Fontainebleau
- Bryden Allen - One of the "grandfathers" of Australian rock climbing. Numerous first ascents including the first ascent of Ball's Pyramid, one of the tallest sea stacks on earth[1]
- Christian Almer (1826-1898), Swiss. Grindelwald guide; made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Mönch, Eiger, Fiescherhorn, Barre des Ecrins and Aiguille Verte.
- Ashraf Aman (1943 – ) First Pakistani climber to summit K2
- Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933). Italy. First ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska/Yukon
- Pat Ament (born 1946) United States rock climber and pioneer boulderer. Prolific author
- Conrad Anker (born 1963) United States. Discovered George Mallory's body on Mount Everest in 1999
- Melchior Anderegg (1827-1912), Swiss. "King of the mountain guides" from Meiringen, who made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Dent d'Hérens and Grandes Jorasses and of the Goûter and Brenva routes of the Mont Blanc
- Daniel Andrada (born 1975) - Spain sport climber who had climbed many 8a routes.
- Bernd Arnold - Germany. Prolific climber in Sächsischen Schweiz
- Armando Aste (1926-) Italy. Mountaineer Dolomites and Patagonia. Leader of the first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face
- Peter Athans- United States alpinist. Winner of the David A Sowles Award. Everest seven times.
- Matthias Auckenthaler (1906–1936) Austria. First ascent of the north face of Furchetta in the Dolomites.
- Peter Aufschnaiter, (1899–1973) Austria. Mountaineer and co-traveller of Heinrich Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet)
[edit] B
- Valery Babanov (born 1964). Russia. Only person to have won two Piolet d'Or awards, in 2002 for his solo climb of Meru and in 2004 with Yuri Koshelenko for the ascent of Nuptse East.
- John Bachar (born 1957), United States rock climber. Initiated extreme free soloing.
- John Ball (1818–1889) Irish. Naturalist and Climber, notable for his guides to the Alps. First president of the Alpine Club, founded in 1857. Link
- Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Chamonix based guide. First ascent of Mont Blanc with Jean-Jaques Paccard in 1786.
- George Band (born 1929) United Kingdom. Everest Expedition 1953, First ascent Kanchenjunga 1955 with Joe Brown. Former President of the Alpine Club and the British Mountaineering Council.
- Henry Barber (born 1953); leading United States rock climber in the 1970s; advocate of clean climbing ("alpine style").
- Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (born 1923). Germany/United States. Prolific mountaineer, with many first ascents in the U.S. and Canada.
- George Irving Bell (1926–2000) United States Physicist, biologist and mountaineer. Masherbrum 1960. One of the five climbers on K2 in 1953 who fell but were saved by Peter Schoening.
- Gertrude Bell, (1868–1926). British explorer, mountaineer and spy; was instrumental in shaping modern Iraq
- Neil Bentley, (19??-). First ascentionist of Britain's first E10, Equilibrium.
- Josune Bereziartu (born 1972). Basque rock climber; as of 2005, she is the only female to have climbed the grade 9a/5.14d
- Steven Berry British mountaineer. Attempt on the south-west ridge of Gangkar Puensum in Bhutan (1980s).
- Merrill Bitter (born 1953). United States rock climber.
- Barry Blanchard (born 1959). Canadian alpinist and mountain guide; first ascents in the St. Elias range of Alaska; has also climbed various peaks in the Canadian Rockies and Himalayas; associate director of Yamnuska Mountain Adventures in Canmore, Alberta
- Smoke Blanchard) (1915-1989. United States Mountaineer, trekker, guide, climber and Buddhist truck driver; last great friend in life to Norman Clyde, developed the Buttermilk Bouldering area, was a friend to Tenzing Norgay, and mentor to Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell, and Don Jenson. Killed in an auto accident near Mojave, CA. [2]
- Karl Blodig (1859-1956). Austria mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to have climbed all peaks in The Alps over 4000 metres
- Peter Boardman (1950–1982). United Kingdom climber and writer. Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979. Died on Everest N-NE ridge with Joe Tasker in 1982.
- Walter Bonatti (born 1930). Italian mountaineer and writer; climbed mainly in the Alps (solo climb of a new route on the south-west (Bonatti) pillar of the Aiguille du Dru in August 1955; first winter ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn in 1965); on successful Italian K2 expedition (1954) but did not summit.
- Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) United Kingdom mountaineer and writer. First ascents of Central Pillar of Freney (1961), Annapurna II (1960), Nuptse (1961), Central Tower of Paine (1962–3), Changabang (1974), Ogre (1977). Ascent of Everest (1985). Leader of many Himalayan expeditions, including four to Everest and successful 1970 Annapurna expedition. Knighted in 1996.
- Orrin Bonney - United States climber & lawyer. Former president of the American Alpine Club.
- Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) United Kingdom. Geologist and mountaineer. Former president of the Alpine Club. Made most of his ascents in the Alps. [3]
- Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) United States Alpinist; first North American woman to summit Lhotse; reached six of the 14 8,000m summits, including Mount Everest twice, most among American women; presumed lost in an avalanche on Genyen Peak in November 2006.
- Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia. Kanchenjunga (first traverse of the four summits) 1989, Dhaulagiri 1991 & 1995, Everest 1991/95/96/97, K2 1993, Makalu 1994, Manaslu 1995, Lhotse 1996/97, Cho Oyu 1996, Shishapangma 1996, Broad Peak 1997, Gasherbrum IV 1997. Died Annapurna 25 December 1997.
- Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956), British. Reconnaissance of Everest 1951, Cho Oyu 1952, British Everest expeditions 1952 and 1953, South Summit of Everest 26 May 1953.
- Bean Bowers aka Poroto; Patagonian legend
- Werner Braun United States climber. Noted for climbing Astroman at least 80 times. Also lauded for many successful rescues with YOSAR.
- David Breashears (born 1956). United States climber. Everest twice. Directed IMAX film Everest.
- Meta Brevoort (1825 - 1876). United States alpinist of the Victorian period. Aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge.
- Jim Bridwell - United States rock climber. First one-day ascent of The Nose of El Capitan in 1975.
- Eric Brody (born 1982). United States climber. Summited "The Nose" route on Yosemite's El Capitan in 1999 at the age of 17 (youngest ascent of El Capitan by an American at that time). Brody currently lives in Greenwich, CT.
- Joe Brown (born 1930). British climber. Rock climbing pioneer. First ascent of Kanchenjunga 1955 with George Band.
- Katie Brown (born 1987). United States boulderer and competitive sport climber.
- Hermann Buhl (1924–1957). Austrian climber. First ascent Nanga Parbat (1953), first ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck & Diemberger. Died Chogolisa June 27, 1957.
- Adrian Burgess British mountaineer and photographer. Has made 25 Himalayan expeditions and summitted Mount Everest; is the twin brother of Alan Burgess
- Alan Burgess British mountaineer; twin brother of Adrian Burgess
- Jason Burton (born 1972); a.k.a. JB; United States boulderer, climber and travelling musician known for developing several routes in the Red River Gorge area of Kentucky.
[edit] C
- Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) United States. Extraordinary rock climber. Free climbed the Nose of El Capitan.
- Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) -French Scientist and alpinist.
- Kim Carrigan (Australia) One of the leading technical rock climbers of the 1980s.
- Carlos Carsolio Mexico. 14 8000m summits (1985-1996).
- Riccardo Cassin (born 1909). Italian Alpinist. First ascents of north-east face of Piz Badile (1937); Walker Spur on north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1938); Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley (1961).
- Robert Caspersen Trango Pulpit first ascent in 1999. Norway's best climber in recent years.
- Yvon Chouinard (1938 -) Pioneer of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. Advocate of clean climbing. Founder of Chouinard Equipment and later Patagonia.
- Claudio Cima (1949–2005)-Italian Alpinist and writer.
- John Clarke (1945–2003) - noted Canadian explorer, mountaineer, conservationist, and wilderness educator, member of the Order of Canada and suspected of over 600 first ascents in the Coast Range of British Columbia
- Pete Cleveland - United States climber. Superpin (5.11, 1967). Phlogiston (5.13, 1977).
- Vern Clevenger (1955-) United States. First ascent Cholatse (1982) with Rowell, Rowell and O'Connor. Numerous first routes ascents in the Sierra Nevada (US)
- Ian Clough (1939-1970) United Kingdom. First ascent Am Buachaille (1968) with Patey. Killed on Annapurna.
- Norman Clyde (1886-1972) United States. Pioneer climber of California Sierra Nevada.[4]
- J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) United Kingdom. First ascent Tower Ridge Ben Nevis. Nanga Parbat expedition 1895.
- Emilio Comici (1901 - 1940), Italy. 200 new routes in the Dolomites. First ascent Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo north face, one of the six great north faces of the Alps
- Achille Compagnoni (1914-) Italy. First ascent K2 (1954) with Lacedelli
- Janne Corax (1967–) Sweden. Adventurer and climber
- William Martin Conway (1856–1937) United Kingdom. Surveyor, explorer and mountaineer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps).
- William A. Coolidge (1850–1926) United States - 1,700 expeditions in Alps, greatest Alpine historian, Oxford Don.
- Jean Couzy France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Terray
- Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) - Occultist, writer, and a pioneer of British rock climbing. Led expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga.
- Michel Croz (???? - 1865) Chamonix. First ascent Barre Des Ecrins. First ascent Matterhorn (1865) with Whymper, Douglas, Hudson, Hadow, and the two Taugwalders. Killed on descent.
[edit] D
- Art Davidson United States. First winter ascent of Denali (1967) with Ray "Pirate" Jenet and Dave Johnston. Author "Minus 148"
- Johnny Dawes (1964-) United Kingdom. Rock climber, introduced 2 new grades in the British grading system for traditional climbs.
- José Antonio Delgado (1965 - 2006) Venezuela. Five 8000m summits (1994-2006). Died descending Nanga Parbat July 22, 2006.
- Catherine Destivelle (1960-) France. Sports climber and mountaineer. Nameless Tower (1990), Eigerwand (solo) (1992). Link
- Thomas Clinton Dent (1850–1912) United Kingdom. Caucasus, Alps, first ascent of Aiguille du Dru (1878).
- Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy. Geologist and Mountaineer. Leader of K2 first ascent expedition in 1954.
- Kurt Diemberger (1932-) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck & Buhl. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diener, Forrer, Schelbert, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji. K2 (1986).
- Peter Diener Germany. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diemberger, Forrer, Schelbert, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji.
- Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway. Sports climber and mountaineer. Climbed east face Great Trango Tower (1984) with Finn Dæhli. Summited, but both killed during descent.
- Sean Duffy United States Mountaineer known for charity climbs, speed ascents, and developing Sawtooth routes.
- Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Leading German rock climber who died during WWI.
- Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) Swiss. Mountaineer and Himalayan explorer. Led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga in 1930 and 1931. link
- John Dunne (1968–) Established Partheon Shot(E10, 7a) in 1990. Later downgraded to E9, 7a. The only climber to have ascended that route without falling (though he did have to be helped off the crux a couple of times). Other notable first ascents include Total Eclipse (9a) Malham, Divided Years (E10,7a) Mourne Mountains. Featured in Hard Grit, a seminal and award winning climbing documentary featuring other grit climbers such as Johnny Dawes, Seb Grieve, and Jerry Moffat.
[edit] E
- Oscar Eckenstein (1859 - 1921) - Early Alpinist, rock climber, and boulderer
- Tim Emmett -British competitive rock and ice climber
- Charles Evans (born 1912) - Alps, Wales, leader of Kanchenjunga first ascent expedition
- Jens Esmark (1763–1839), Norwegian mountain climber - the first person to ascend Snøhetta Mountain in 1798, part of the Jotunheimen Range in Norway; led the first expedition to Bitihorn, a small mountain near Jotunheimen, Norway; the first person to ascend Mount Gaustatoppen in Telemark, Norway.
- John Ewbank (climber) - One of the "grandfathers" of Australian rock climbing. Invented the Australian (Ewbank) grading system now used throughout Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and parts of South East Asia.
[edit] F
- Sue Fear (1963–2006), Australian, Cho Oyu 1998, Shishapangma 2002, Everest 2003, Gasherbrum II 2004. Killed in crevasse fall on descent from Mansalu 28 May 2006.
- Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947), German pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge
- George Ingle Finch (1888–1969) Australian, pioneer of oxygen use, to 27,300 ft on 1922 Everest expedition. First ascent of 'Finch Route' on north face of Dent d'Hérens.
- Tunc Findik (born 1972), Turkey, Taurus Mountains, One of the most skilled climbers in Turkey [5]
- Darby Field (1610–1649) first European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) in 1642.
- Scott Fischer (1956–1996), United States, Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994. Died on descent from Everest in the storm of May 11 1996.
- Hans Florine (born 1964)- United States Speed Climber, World Record Holder
- James David Forbes (1809–1868) - early, first British ascent of Jungfrau
- Ernst Forrer Swiss. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji.
- Charlie Fowler (1954 - 2006) Notable United States free solo rock climber and high-altitude mountaineer.
- Mick Fowler United Kingdom. Technical climber, winner of the Piolet D'Or 2003. link
- Jean Franco - led expedition on first ascent of Makalu (1955)
- Douglas Freshfield (1845-1934) - Alps, Scotland, Himalaya, Pyrenees
- Tom Frost- United States rock climber. Yosemite National Park pioneer. Climbing equipment manufacturer.
[edit] G
- Will Gadd - Canadian. Responsible for various hard mixed routes including the first M12.
- Makalu Gao - Taiwan. Everest (1996). On descent caught in a storm and overnighted near the summit and rescued the next day.link
- João Garcia, first Portuguese to climb Mount Everest, did it without auxiliary oxygen. Leading mountaineer in Portugal
- Lester Germer (1896 – 1971). United States physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber.
- Konrad von Gesner (1516–1565) Switzerland. Naturalist Early mountaineer in the Alps.
- Ivano Ghirardini (born 1953) France First Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn, Eiger north faces trilogy solo in winter, 1978. Mitre Peak first ascent 1980.
- John Gill (born 1937) United States. Father of modern Bouldering. Introduced chalk & modern dynamics in 1950s.
- Stefan Glowacz - professional rock climber
- Serge Gousseault (1947–1971) France-Mountain guide Dramatic winter attempt with René Desmaison in Grandes Jorasses north face 1971.
- Dave Graham (born 1981) Maine Professional rock climber and leading boulderer.
- Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway. Professional climber and extreme skier made the 1.st ski descent of Everest North Face 2006.
- Anne Gray (born 1961) Australia rock climber and orthopedic surgeon.
- William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) - New Zealand, Selkirks
- Paul Grohmann (1838-1908) Austria. First ascents include the four highest peaks in the Dolomites (e.g. Marmolada (1864)), as well as the Hochfeiler (1865), Langkofel (1869), and Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo (1869)
- Bear Grylls (born 1974) Youngest Briton to climb Mt. Everest and return alive (1998).
- Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992). Germany. Celebrated rock climber & boulderer. First 5.14d - Actione Direct (1991).
- Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) German geologist and explorer. First ascent of Aiguille Blanche du Peuterey and Piz Scerscen. First European attempt on Aconcagua in 1883.
- Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finnish. Eleven 8000m plus summits between 1993 and 2006. All without supplementary oxygen.
[edit] H
- Peter Habeler (1942–) Austria. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Mount Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner.
- Douglas Hadow - killed on first ascent of Matterhorn
- Lincoln Hall Australia. Everest. Rescued in 2006 after being 'left for dead' overnight at 8700m on descent from the summit of Everest.
- Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand. Seven Summits in seven months with Gary Ball (1990). Died in the 1996 Everest Disaster on 11 May 1996.
- Douglas S. Hansen (born 1954) Leader of the U.S. Everest Expedition, "Utahan's on Everest", 1992 Seven Summits
- Warren J Harding - first ascent of El Capitan
- Alison Hargreaves (1963-1995) United Kingdom. First female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit
- John Harlin (1934-1966) United States. Direct route pioneer. Killed on the north face of the Eiger.
- Heinrich Harrer (1912-2006) Austria. First ascent North Face Eiger (1938) with Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vorg. First ascent Carstensz Pyramid (1962) with 3 others. Author of Seven Years in Tibet.
- Ginette Harrison (1958-1999) United Kingdom. 7 Summits (1983-1993). First female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998). Killed in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri.
- Reto Hartmann - Swiss boulderer
- John M. Hartog - first ascent of Muztagh Tower in the Himalaya
- Dougal Haston (1940–1977) United Kingdom. First ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) with Don Whillans. Killed in an avalanche in the Alps.
- Ben Heason - British, notable free ascent of the Angel Falls.
- Siegfried Herford (1891 - 1914) - British rock climber. Central Buttress, Scafell, (1914)
- Karl Herligkoffer (born 1917 Germany) - first failed attempt of Broad Peak (1954)
- Hugh Herr (born 1964) - Leading rock United States rock climber in the 1980s, with many hard first ascents in the Gunks and elsewhere. Double amputee (both legs below knee)
- Maurice Herzog (1919-) France. First ascent Annapurna (1950) with Louis Lachenal.
- Tom Higgins (1944- ) First and first free ascents in United States at Tahquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows, Southern Sierra, Pinnacles National Monument, Needles of South Dakota; also in France outside Chamonix. Link
- Lynn Hill (1961-) United States. First free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993).
- Edmund Hillary (1919-) NZ. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay.
- Alan Hinkes (1954-) United Kingdom. 14 8000m summits.
- Yuji Hirayama - difficult onsight
- Charles F. Hoffmann (1838-1913) United States. Surveyor and mountaineer. Several first ascents in the Sierra Nevada.
- Jim Holloway (1954 - ). United States boulderer. Perhaps first to achieve V11+ levels.
- Steve House Solo ascent of K7 in 2004 (nominated for Piolet d'Or), first ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat with Vince Anderson in 2005 (won Piolet d'Or)
- Charles Houston (1913-) Leader of attempts on K2 in 1936 and 1953.
- Alexander and Thomas Huber - German climbers and mountaineers. Free ascents in Yosemite, speed record on El Capitan, expeditions and free solos
- Charles Hudson (1828–1865) United Kingdom. First ascent Monte Rosa (1855). First ascent Matterhorn (1865) with Whymper, Douglas, Croz, Hadow, and the two Taugwalders. Killed on descent.
- Francois-Joseph Hugi - geologist, unsuccessful attempts in 1828 of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
- Tomaž Humar (born 1969). Slovenia. Extreme climber. Piolet d'Or in 1996 for a new route on the East Face of Ama Dablam. Solo ascent of the south wall of Dhaulagiri.
- Alexander von Humboldt - Chimborazo
- John Hunt (1910–1998) United Kingdom. Leader 1953 Everest expedition.
[edit] I
- Marcel Ichac France. Member (cineast of the first French expedition in Himalaya (Karakoram, 1936) and of the second (Annapurna, 1950). One of the greatest mountain film maker of his time.
- Toshio Imanishi Japan. First ascent Manaslu 1956 with Gyalzen Norbu.
- Jeanne Immink (1853-1929), Dutch rock climber. One of the earliest female rock climbers. Several Dolomite peaks have been named after her.
- Ulrich Inderbinen (1900-2004). Swiss guide. 371 Matterhorn ascents, last at age 90.
- Alberto Iñurrategi, Basque climber, all eight-thousanders (1991-2002).
- Andrew Irvine (1902-1924) United Kingdom. Died on Everest at approximately 8500m with George Mallory on 8 June 1924.
[edit] J
- John Jackson United Kingdom. First ascent of Jackson's Route
- Ray "Pirate" Jenet - First winter ascent of Denali with Art Davidson Died in avalanche while skiing.
- Sepp Jöchler Austria. First ascent Cho Oyo (1954) with Herbert Tichy and Pasang Dawa Lama.
[edit] K
- Konrad Kain (1883-1934), Austria/Canada. Over 50 first ascents in the Canadian rockies, amongst which Mount Robson.
- Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970), Austria. Most (9) 8000m peaks by a woman.
- Harish Kapadia- born 1945 India One of the most distinguished Himalayan Mountaineers
- Beat Kammerlander (born 1959) - Austria sportclimber
- Hans Kammerlander (born 1956)- South Tyrol. 13 of 14 8000m peaks. Messner partner. First to ski down from Nanga Parbat & Mount Everest.
- Bob Kamps (1931–2005) - United States rock climber. Pioneer of golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 & 5.11 routes in America.
- Jürg von Känel (1952?-2005) - author of plaisir guide books
- Fritz Kasparek (1910 - 1954) - Austria. First ascent of the Eiger north face.
- Ron Kauk United States rock climber. Many first ascents in Yosemite. Stunt work for Hollywood climbing movies. Subject of several rock climbing movies.
- Jason Kehl (Born 1976) - United States boulderer. Evilution (V12)
- Mohammadreza Khalilighazi (born: 22 June 1967- Tabriz, Iran) one of the famous Iranian climber and ecotourism leader and he founded Mountain Guide Committee (MGC) since 2002 and Mountain Ecotourism Committee (MEC) since 2006 in Iranian Mountaineering Federation.
- Clarence King (1842–1901) - United States geologist and climber, first director of the USGS, first ascent of Mount Tyndall,
- Colin Kirkus (1910-1942)- United Kingdom rock climber and alpinist
- Claude Kogan (1919-1959), France. Born 'Claude Troullet. First ascents of the Alpamayo (1951) and Salcantay (1952) in the Andes, and Nun (1953) and Yangra (or Ganesh I) (1953) in the Himalayas. Reached 7600 or 7700 m on Cho Oyu in 1954, a long-standing altitude record for women. She died in a second attempt on Cho Oyu.
- Layton Kor - Famous United States rock climber. Author of Beyond the Vertical.
- Dai Koyamada (born 1976) - Japanese Sport climber and Boulderer
- Jon Krakauer (born 1954) - United States non-fiction author and mountaineer
- Hans Kraus (1905–1995) - Born Austria, emigrated to United States, pioneering rock climber and one of the fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation
- Göran Kropp (1966–2002) - rode his bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without Oxygen and rode home.
- Julius Kugy (1858-1944), Austria-Slovenia. Considered the father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps
- Christian Kuntner (1962-2005) - South Tyrol. 13 of 14 8000m plus summits. Killed by avalanch on 14th peak (Annapurna). link
- Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) - Poland climber, the second man to climb all 8000m peaks.
- Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) - Poland climber, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains.
- Toni Kurz (1913-1936). German climber who attempted the Eiger Nordwand in 1936. Died tragically during the retreat
[edit] L
- Louis Lachenal (1921–1955). France. First ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog. Died in a crevasse fall, while skiing in Chamonix 25 November 1955.
- Constantin "Ticu" Lacatusu Romania. First Romanian ever to reach Mount Everest.
- Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965-2006). France. 11 8000m plus summits, all without auxiliary oxygen. Missing at 7,600 m on Makalu, January 26, 2006.
- Jeff Lakes (1962–1995). Canada. Died descending from 8000m on K2 from exposure.
- Raymond Lambert (1914–1997). Swiss. Member of the Swiss Mount Everest 1952 expedition. Reached 8611m with Tenzing Norgay, the highest point at that time.
- Josef Larch Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II 1956 with Fritz Moravec and Hans Willenpart.
- Marco Lavaggi (2003 - 2006) - Italian mountain climber. He have climb 631 mountain in 3 years. European 4000m
- Craig Leubben - United States rock climber and writer.
- Rahel Maria Liu Germany, 1970-2004 Soloing ascent of Matterhorn Zinalrothorn Weisshorn August 2003
- Philip Ling Australia. Pumori, 7167m in 2005 and 2006, Cho Oyu, 8201m without O2 in 2006.
- Pat Littlejohn - Prolific British adventure climber and advocate of traditional climbing ethics.
- Pete Livesey - Influential United Kingdom climber in the 1970s
- Gerhard Lenser - first ascent of Pumori (1962)
- Andrew Lock Australia. 9 8000m plus summits between (1993) & (2003).
- John Long - United States rock climber and writer. Author of the "How to Rock Climb" series.
- Erhard Loretan Swiss. 14 8000m plus summits (1982-1995).
- Klem Loskot - Austrian rock climber and boulderer.
- Alex Lowe, (1958–1999) United States. Great Trango Tower, Rakekniven - Antarctica & Sail Peak - Baffin Island. Killed in an avalanche on Xixabangma.
- George Lowe (born 1953) Many first acents. Was on the 1983 expedition to the east face of Everest. First Acent of that route, considered Everest's hardest route.
- Jeff Lowe (born 1949) United States. Many first ascents. Solo ascent South Face Ama Dablam, Direct Bonatti route on Grand Capucin, north face Mt. Temple. Creator of Ouray Ice Festival.
- Fritz Luchsinger - first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
- François Legrand - three times World Champion and winner of 20 UIAA World Cups
[edit] M
- Tim Macartney-Snape (1956 - ) Australia. Everest (1984). First to walk & climb from Sea Level to the summit of Everest (1990).
- Dave MacLeod - Scottish climber and all rounder. Established world's first E11.
- Nasuh Mahruki (1968) - Turkey, the first Turk and Muslim who climbed the Mount Everest (May 17, 1995)
- Paul Mahony (1955 - ) Canada Ice climber specializing in frozen waterfalls.
- George Mallory (1886–1924) Wales, 1921,1922,1924 United Kingdom expeditions to Everest. Died on Everest at 8000+ metres June 8/9 1924.
- Steve Mammen (born ????) United States boulderer. FAs at Horsetooth Reservoir and around Colorado.
- Sergio Martini Italy. 14 8000m summits (1976-2000)
- Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France. Between 1903 and 1910 she became the first woman to climb most of the peaks in the French and Swiss Alps.
- Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France. Shisha Pangma (1993), Cho Oyu (1993), Lhotse (1996), Manaslu (1996), Gasherbrum II (1997). Killed by avalanche on Dhaulagiri, May 16, 1998
- Charles Edward Mathews (1834–1905) - Alps, Snowdonia
- Eylem Elif Mavis (1973) - Turkey. The first Turkish woman to climb Mount Everest (May 15, 2006)
- Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929). France. Walter Bonatti climbing partner. First Frenchman to climb Mt Everest (1978).
- Daniel Mazur United States. Everest, Lhotse, K2, Gasherbrum I and Makalu.
- Steve McClure - first Brit to climb 9a twice
- Duncan McDuffie - summits in the Sierra Nevada (US)
- Chris Meadows - Australia hardman (1960's)
- Willi Merkl-German climber. Killed on Nanga Parbat 1934
- Alain Mesili (1949-) France. Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela. Pioneered routes in Bolivia.
- Reinhold Messner (1944 – ) Italy. First to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks (1970-1986). First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Peter Habeler. First solo Everest (1980).
- Johann Rudolf Meyer - first ascents of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
- Hieronymus Meyer - first ascents of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
- Jean-Christian Michel - first ascents of Tawesche withYannick Seigneur1973
- John Middendorf (born 1959) United States. Big wall rock climber. First ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992) with Xaver Bongard.
- Gwen Moffat - British female climber, author of Space Below My Feet (1961)
- Ben Moon - United Kingdom sport climber and boulderer, established the world's first F8C+
- Simon Moore - Irish climber. First Irish person to climb E9. Big wall climber and Boulderer.
- Fritz Moravec (1922-1997) Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II (1956) with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart.
- Simone Moro 1967–) Italy. Winner of the David A Sowles Award 2002 for the rescue of Tom Moore on Lhotse. Lhotse 1994, Shishpangma 1996, Everest 2002 & 2000, Cho Oyu 2002.
- Tomáš Mrázek - professional Czech rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005; winner of the World Cup 2004
- John Muir (1838–1914) United States. Conservationist and mountaineer. Summits in California and Alaska
- Norrie Muir (1948 – ) Scottish climber and prolific first ascentionist
- Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) United Kingdom. Alpine pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat.
- Don Munday (1890–1950) - - Canadian mountaineer, and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored the region around Mount Waddington
- Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) - Canadian mountaineer and explorer, member of the Order of Canada and wife of Don Munday, explored the region around Mount Waddington
- Marius Murg (Cretzu) (1977–) - first ascent of Cot in Bot, Tureni Gorges - Romania
[edit] N
- Nazir Sabir - Pakistan Most famous mountaineer from Pakistan
- Waldemar Niclevicz - Leading mountaineer in Brazil
- Fred Nicole - Switzerland rock climber, notable for his numerous first ascents of cutting edge sport routes and boulder problems.
- Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary.
- Edward Felix Norton (1884–1954) - leader of 1924 Everest expedition with Mallory and Irvine
- Sue Nott (1970-2006) United States. Technical ice and rock climber. Died on Mount Foraker with Karen McNeill. link, link
- Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) - leader of 1985 Norwegian Everest expedition
[edit] O
- Alexander Odintsov (born 1957). Russian. Leader of the Project "Big Wall - Russian Way". New routes on the Troll Wall, Bhagirathi North Face, Trango Tower West Face, Great Sail Peak, and Jannu North Face. The latter was awarded the 2005 Piolet d'Or.
- Cathy O'Dowd South African First woman in the world to climb Everest from both north and south sides (1999). Fourth woman in the world to climb Lhotse, the world's fourth highest mountain (2000).
- Juan Oiarzabal (born 1956). All eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen. Record 21 ascents of eight-thousanders.
- Dan Osman - United States, famous for dangerous solos. Killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping.
- James Outram - Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine
- Attila Ozsvath (alpine climber) (1956-2002) Hungarian. First ascents: east face of Kedarnath Dome 1989, north face of Thalay Sagar, Spaltnik Golden Pillar 2000. Disappeared in 2002 in the K6 group of Karakorum. First successful Hungarian eight-thousander ascent in 1986, Shisha Pangma.
[edit] P
- Michel-Gabriel Paccard - first ascent of Mont Blanc (1786)
- Dogan Palut - One of the most skilled climbers in Turkey.
- Marie Paradis. France. First woman to ascend Mont Blanc, 1809
- Young-seok Park South Korea. First grand slam of mountaineering in 2005
- Edurne Pasaban (born 1973). Spain. Eight 8,000 m peaks. One of only three women alive that have climbed K2.
- Tom Patey (1932-1970) Scotland. First ascent Muztagh Tower 1956. First ascent Am Buachaille 1968. Killed in abseilling accident. Author of One Man's Mountains
- Julius Payer (1841-1915). Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s.
- Jim Perrin (born 1947) Over 200 notable first/free ascents in Britain. Winner of the Boardman Tasker prize for mountain literature.
- William Perrin (1980 - 2004). Several new routes across the United Kingdom; redpointed several climbs in North Wales.
- Oliver Perry-Smith (1884-1969). United States rockclimber active in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites before World War I
- Petrarch (1304-1374), Italy. Climbed, with his brother, Mont Ventoux on April 26, 1336. As this is the first recorded "touristic" ascent, Petrach is often considered the first mountaineer.
- Avadhut Phatarpekar (1982-), India. Shillong Climbing Association Amateur; Climbs include Doom Dooma, Kanheri, and Naya Kanga (2004-05).
- Burçak Özoglu Poçan (1970) - climbed over 8,000 m along with her team mate Eylem Elif Mavis as the first Turkish female mountaineers in 2005. One of the four Turkish female summiters of Mt. Everest (2006). Married to Serhan Poçan.
- Dean Potter United States. Innovated fast and free climbing style; speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day. Married to climber Steph Davis.
- Eneko Pou (1974-) and Iker Pou (1977-). Basque brothers. Top rock climbers, have several difficult and speed ascents. Working in their project "7 Walls, 7 continents", free climbing seven emblematic walls in the seven continents.
- Chuck Pratt (1939-2000) United States. Rock climber. Yosemite pioneer.
- Paul Preuss (1886-1913) Austria. Early promoter of free climbing. Climbed 1200 peaks in his short life.
- Hristo Prodanov (1943-1984) Bulgaria. Lhotse unassisted 1981. Died on descent from unassisted climb of Everest in 1984.
- Bonnie Prudden - (born 1914) - Pioneering United States rock climber and exercise advocate. 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks.
- Karl Prusik - Austrian mountaineer. Introduced the widely used Prusik knot.
- Ramón Julián Puigblanque (1981-) Spain. Rock climber
- Ludwig Purtscheller, first ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1889
- Adam Ondra - the youngest climber who climbed 5.14d
[edit] Q
[edit] R
- Lisa Rands - United States rock climber and boulderer.
- Jon Read - English climber
- Michael Reardon - United States freesoloist and film producer
- Dave Rearick - United States rock climber. First Ascent of the Diamond on Longs Peak, 1960.
- Gaston Rébuffat (1921-1985) - French climber
- Ernst Reiss - first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
- Sherpa Ang Rita (born 1948) - Mount Everest
- Alain Robert - French climber and builderer
- Royal Robbins (born 1935) - Highly respected United States rock climber. Pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in 1950s.
- Doug Robinson - Sierras
- Rob Robinson - United States traditional rock climber. Principal developer of the Tennessee Wall
- Beth Rodden - United States rock climber. Married to Tommy Caldwell.
- Rich Romano - United States rock climber and prolific first ascentionist. Primary developer of the Gunks cliff Millbrook
- John Roskelley (born 1948) - United States mountaineer
- Fred Rouhling -French rock climber, notable for his 1995 proposal of the grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira
- Galen Rowell (1940-2002) United States. Photographer and mountaineer. First one day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro. First ascent Great Trango Tower (1977) with John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek. Died in a plane crash with wife, Barbara.
- Wanda Rutkiewicz - considered by many to be the best female climber in history, died in an attempt of Kanchenjunga in 1992.
[edit] S
- John Salathe (1900-1993) -born Switzerland emigrated United States, pioneering Yosemite National Park rock climber and inventor of the modern piton.
- Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) - third ascent of Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent
- Albin Schelbert Swiss. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diemberger, Diever, Forrer, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji.
- Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Buhl, Diemberger and Wintersteller. First ascent Skil Brum (7360m) (1957) with Wintersteller.
- Peter Schoening (1927–2004) United States. First ascent Gasherbrum I (1958) with Kauffman. First ascent Vinson Massif (1966) in Antarctica. Awarded the David A Sowles award in 1981 for saving five fellow climbers on K2 in 1953. Obituary
- Doug Scott (1941–) United Kingdom. Seven Summits. Everest (SW Face) 1975 with Haston, Ogre (descent with two broken ankles) 1977, Kangchenjunga 1979, Nuptse 1979. Former President of the Alpine Club. 'The John Peel of mountaineering'
- Araceli Segarra (1970-) Spain. Accomplished rock climber and mountaineer. Everest (1996). link
- Vittorio Sella (1859–1943)- Italian mountaineer and early photographs
- Michael Vincent Sevidal - Filipino Sport Climber , Free soloist and President of Zero Grab (Local Rock Climbing Org.)
- Chris Sharma (1981-) United States. Award winning rock climber. Featured in several rock climbing movies.
- John Sherman (Born 1959) - United States boulderer and author, inventor of "V" grading system.
- Pemba Dorjie Sherpa, fastest ascent of Mount Everest, May 23, 2003
- Eric Shipton (1907–1977) United Kingdom. First ascent Kamet (1931) with Smythe, Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier with Tilman in 1951.
- William Shockley (1910–1989) - Nobel Prize winning physicist, proponent of eugenics. First ascent of Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953)
- Yannick Seigneur (-2001) France. First ascent West Pillar Makalu (1971)
- David Simmonite (1965 -) United Kingdom. Climber and Photographer. New routes in UK, published award winning guidebooks and photographic book on Rock Climbing in England & Wales, leading extreme sports photographer.
- Joe Simpson United Kingdom. Notably survived a fall and being left for dead on Siula Grande Touching the Void.
- Richard Simpson British Climber, repeats of many hard sport routes.
- Todd Skinner (1958–2006) - United States rock climber. From Wyoming. Many first ascents, including first free ascent of the Salathe Wall in Yosemite National Park. Died while descending Leaning Tower in Yosemite.
- Laurie Skreslet (1949-) Canada. Everest (1982)
- William Cecil Slingsby (1849-1929 United Kingdom. First ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876). Pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering.
- Frank Smythe (1900–1949) First ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen. link
- William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) - first non-African to ever climb in the Ruwenzoris
- John Stannard (Born 1938) - United States rock climber and physicist. Early advocate of clean climbing. First free ascent of Foops and many other routes in the Gunks.
- Leslie Stephen - United Kingdom. Author and alpinist. First ascents of the Schreckhorn and Zinalrothorn
[edit] T
- Joe Tasker (1948–1982) United Kingdom. Ascents of Dunagiri (1976), Kanchenjunga (1979), Changabang West Wall. Died with Pete Boardman on Everest on or around 17 May 1982.
- Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Jean Couzy.
- Kevin Thaw (1967–) United Kingdom. many first and notable ascents.
- Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austria. First ascent Cho Oyu (1954) with Sepp Jochler and Pasang Dawa.
- Bill Tilman - Africa, Himalaya
- Luis Trenker, mountaineer, film director and writer (born in South Tyrol, Austria-Hungary)
- Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) - first ascent of Aletschhorn (1859)
- Mark Twight - United States alpinist, advocate of "Light and Fast" style of mountaineering.
- John Tyndall (1820–1893) - Alps, scientist, first ascent of Weisshorn (1861)
[edit] U
- James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) United States. Noted author, and mountaineer.
- Ugur Uluocak (1962-2003) Turkey. Mountaineer, photographer and editor. Died while climbing Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan.
- Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) United States. First U.S. ascent of Everest (1963), with Tom Horbein. Killed in an avalanche on Mount Rainier on 22 May 1979.
- Patxi Usobiaga(1980-) Basque. 2006 sport climbing World Champion. link
[edit] V
- Ivan Vallejo (1959-) Ecuador. Climbed 12 of the 14 8,000-meter peaks without oxygen. Dhaulagiri and Annapurna are to come.
- Erich Vanis (1928-2004) Austria. Mountaineer, alpinist, and author
- Ed Viesturs (1959-) United States. First United States climber to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks; second person to climb them without supplementary oxygen
- Antoine de Ville France. Artillery officer climbed Mont Aiguille in 1492
- Jaime Viñals Guatemala. First Central American climber who reached: Mount Everest, The Seven Summits.
- Frits Vrijlandt Dutch. Prominent Dutch climber: Mount Everest, The Seven Summits
[edit] W
- Lucy Walker (1836–1916) United Kingdom. First female ascent Matterhorn (1871)
- Alan Watts (1960-) United States. Spurred the birth of sportclimbing in the U.S., particularly with his extreme first ascents at Smith Rock.
- Erik Weihenmayer (1968-) United States. First ascent of Everest by a blind person in 2001.
- Don Whillans (1933–1985) United Kingdom. First ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) with Haston. Rock climber (teamed with Joe Brown).
- Rick White (1946-2004) - Developed Frog Buttress (1968) Australia
- Jim Whittaker (1929-) United States. First U.S. Ascent Mount Everest (1963)
- Edward Whymper (1840–1911) United Kingdom. First ascent Matterhorn (1865), first accent Chimborazo (1880)
- Jim Wickwire (1940-) United States. K2 (1978), including an open overnight bivouac near the summit.
- Krzysztof Wielicki (1950-) - Poland mountaineer. First man on Mount Everest in winter; fifth man to climb all 8000 meter peaks.
- Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) - Born Dresden emigrated [[United States]]; Pioneer of free climbing; notable 1939 expedition to K2
- Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) - Canadian Rockies explorer
- Dick Williams United States. Rock climber, many first ascents in the Gunks. Original member of The Vulgarians and guidebook author.
- Hans Willenpart Austria. First ascent Gasherbrum II (1956) with Moravec and Larch.
- George Willig - climbed the South Tower of the World Trade Center
- Geri Winkler (1956-) Austria. First ascent of Mt. Everest by an insulin-dependent person in 2006.
- Fritz Wintersteller (1927–) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Diemberger, Schmuck and Buhl. First ascent Skil Brum (1957) with Schmuck.
[edit] X
[edit] Y
- John Yablonski (1956–1991) United States. Nickname "Yabo". Technical rock climber. Noted for free soloing. link
- Tony Yaniro - United States rock climber, Grand Illusion 13b/c
- Simon Yates (Born 1963) United Kingdom. Joe Simpson's partner on their 1985 attempt on the unclimbed west face of Siula Grande, subject of the book Touching the Void.
- Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903-1998) Japan. Notable Japanese climber and writer. K2 (1977). Obituary.
- Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) United Kingdom. Writer and mountaineer. Former president of Alpine Club and Climbers' Club.
[edit] Z
- Nejc Zaplotnik (1952-1983) Slovenia. Ascent Makalu (1975), Gasherbrum (1977), Everest (1979). Died in an avalanche on Manaslu (1983)
- Emil Zsigmondy (1861-1885), Austria. Multiple first ascents through the alps and climbing partner of Ludwig Purtscheller.
- Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Swiss. First ascent Aconcagua (1897).